K800

Okay, I can't do this anymore so I'm going to bed HUMPH!!



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A tip for drilling thin carbon or glass: use a sharp bit and reverse the drill motor. That way it won't catch on the laminations and cause trouble.

 

Thanks, I have been going forward and backward rolling the bit in my fingers. I have had to sharpen the bit every little bit. The carbon seems to dull it quick, but maybe that's because I sharpen it at a really small angle.

 

I have been without power for a couple of days. that's why no posts. =9)

 

I tried putting the model into freeship, but it something doesn't work right because it won't calculate the displacement if I put the stern low enough.

 

Close the transom.

 

Oh, right... duh.

 

Okay, now that I have played with hydrostatics a lot... I have decided to clean my trailer out and make another work station. At this moment I have no place to sleep, but that place will eventually be both a workbench and a bed. How? My bedroom is of composite construction. LOL! Yeah, I have to put everything away when I go to bed, but I should PROBABLY be doing that anyway right?

My neighbor gave me a demo copy for mastercam. At least I can learn the software if I install it and use it a while. The tutorial is WAY boring and difficult to get through, but it might be worth it if I knew what all it did exactly.

That reminds me, I need to install Free!Ship again. Oh BTW, the reason no modeling has been posted is because I have been spending time putting Windows 7 on my computer after finding out that my Intel video card is not all that compatible with Ubuntu 11.10 and that is why it was overheating, so back to the land of virus protection and blue screens of death.

 

I tried making a keel in freeship, but it wants to line it up with the transom instead of midship.

 

It is always created at 0 point of coordinate system.
Than you have to use "move" command to locate it at proper position.

 

Okay, I finally got it =0)

About the model... I dunno what all is wrong with it, but no matter what I do to it it lists over about 9 degrees starboard. That is it's main problem. After that, it won't go straight, it wants to roll over when you push it because the bow is about 4mm pointing left.

I figured out it's most major malfunction. When I laid up the foam pieces I did not check the floor for level at all and just stacked cans on top of the pieces. Then when I made the model, I used the lines where the glue was in the foam and therefore it has a banana shaped center line. All is well... besides the listing to starboard... until it starts moving forward. Then it rolls to starboard and turns to port resulting in rolling over.

So, I have some more wood now and am considering going back to the first model. At least it goes straight. I have to pull off all the plastic though because I tightened it too much and warped the wood. =0( So at least I will have SOMETHING to play with come spring =0)

Well, I've also been considering buying a real yacht because it is the kind that the club here races with.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKF85&P=FR

I wonder what all I can get away with on the rigging. =0) You should see my mainsail modification I want to make. I mix hoops with something totally new that may make mainsails as efficient as the fors'l

EDIT ROFL at WARNING! the Victoria Racing Yacht, it's parts and construction tools can be deadly weapons. Maybe I don't want to buy this yacht! =0)

 

"... . All is well... besides the listing to starboard... until it starts moving forward. Then it rolls to starboard and turns to port resulting in rolling over. ..."
Is your model already ballasted?

As for banana shape it is always possible to straighten the foam hull with sanding block (carefully ) and pretend it was the plan .

 

Nope, it is not already ballasted. ballast doesn't seem to matter. I put about 400 grams on the port side, but it still lists to starboard. Maybe it has twist to it, not just banana shape.

I think that I can do as much with a kit that is already fair. I found that there is an 'easy pay' available that will allow me to make 3 payments, not just one. =0) That way I can spread out the payments and not be way short one month.

I have really awesome credit. =0) OOH! REminds me that I need to make a payment before the 4th. better get on that eh?

 

I like lots of things about the Victoria model. I like that the keel fits into the hull solidly without having make a box or cut holes so it lines up perfect.

I also like how it looks in general. I never really thought about kit bashing, an Rc model, but I didn't think I could buy one before either.

I'll show you want I want to do with the mains'l. It will be easy, but get rid of turbulence at the mast the same way that the jib does it.

My main question is whether or not I can get rid of the wheel looking things on top near the stern. They look like they just get in the way and can't turn anyways. Are they just fake steering wheels?

EDIT:: Oh yeah, I mean like on page 9 of this manual: http://manuals.hobbico.com/ttr/ttrb1000-manual.pdf

 

For now, I'll just work on the tiny model. =0)

EDIT:: I swear I'm just gonna spend 7 dollars on her tops for balsa that I found that is 1/16th inch thick which might just work well as plywood =0) I probably can't get the math books I want anyways since they are all the way down on 72nd ave in Tacoma. (Too far away by bike with that much in a backpack.)