Does water come out of the exhaust

Just so I am straight. This is a raw water cooled I/O correct?

 

Yes it is. Closed cooling system. Forgot, no water comes out of the propeller exhaust area.

Tomorrow I am going take off the water pump and put a new impeller kit, then try to start it. Hope it does. Thanks, and if your a Dad, Happy Fathers Day.

 

Look here http://www.boatfix.com/how/cooling.html and here http://www.boatfix.com/how/cooling2.html

 

Thank you woodboat for your help.

Very informative and will be a great help to me and others who read this. Thank you very much!

I will let you know the results.

 

Um.... This sounds bad.

Hit 220 in seconds from cold? I would take a look at the wires to the temp gauge, for one thing... It's nearly impossible to fry a motor THAT quickly.
Closed cooling, you say. So both pumps have to be working right, and either could be screwed up.
If both pumps are good and all lines clear: Also check all the engine gaskets (including head gaskets) as a damaged gasket can blow out into a cooling passage. Take the heat exchanger out and look inside it- is it rusted, cracked, clogged, bent?
Good luck, midtower. It's going to take a lot of patience and tedious inspection to figure out what's wrong here.

 

Thank you too. You guys are great. I am not to good at this. Well, it was about 5 minutes when it started heating, sorry. My son corrected me.

I just removed the water pump and heat exchanger, I really can't tell if it water pump is bad. I ordered another marine water pump and waiting for it to arrive.

The heat exchanger looks clean. I ran water through all inlets and outlets and it appears to be clear. I also flushed out the hose's, clear as well. I then flushed out the block and it was clear. Like you said,"It's going to take a lot of patience and tedious inspection to figure out what's wrong here."

I also have a new impeller kit that and will be replacing that as well. I jumped the battery in the boat and the engine barley turned, but it turned. I didn't go any further due to no water pump or heat exchanger not in place. Just wanted to see if the engine would move. It did!!!! Before it over heated the oil pressure was a 40 PSI, if that's correct jargon. But it did turn, I hope that is a good sign. When the water pump comes, I will put that the new impeller kit in and see what happens.

I thank you very much marshmat for your advice and information, I need it. I will let you know the results when I get it all back together.

 

Well, it looks bad. Pumped out 3/4 of water out of the oil pan. I think the motor has met its demise. Now it looks like I have to buy anothe engine, which will be awhile. Thanks to all that gave me advise and guidence, I trully appreciated all your help.

One more thing, how hard is it to remove and install another motor in my boat?

Thanks marshmat and everyone who support me in my dilemma.

 

Don't give up on the old block yet- you might yet be able to hone it out and rebuild the thing. And replacing a motor's not particularly complex, just long and tedious.

 

Thanks again matt,
Wouldn't be better just to buy a long block, because the engine would have to be pulled any way? What do you think?

 

Your call... the extra $$ for a new (and warranty-carrying) engine might be worth it to you, might not. And I suspect it's a fair chunk of money. Not sure what teh prognosis is on the old unit yet, but good luck.

 

Your very nice matt, thanks. Long blocks from what I see on the web is marine 350 are going for 1200 to 1300 dollars? Your right $$. You said, "might not" please explain.
Thank you and will keep you up date.

 

marshmatt

Matt, I am more perplexed now then ever. If I have a closed cooling system filled with coolent, how does clear water get into the oil pan? It has new exhuast manifolds and risers. Otherwise, where could fresh water get into the oil pan? Your help is really appreciated.
Midtower

 

That I do not know. By all accounts, in a closed cooling system you only have raw water in the heat exchanger. The engine side would probably be filled with aqueous ethylene or propylene glycol (similar to car coolant). Or the engine side could also be plain water. But I cannot think of any way other than seriously damaged gaskets and internal components that water could get in the oil pan.

So it looks like it's either rebuild or replace. A good mechanic should be able to tell you if your block is rebuildable or if it's damaged beyond repair. Not much more we can help with here I think.

Good luck.

 

Matt,
You make an excellent point regarding your diagnosis. I think I will take it apart just to see where the problem is. It appears a rebuilt engine is the cards. You have been very generous with your knowledge and I really do appreciate your input. When I get the time and take it apart I will let you know exactly what caused water to get into the oil pan.
Thank you again.
Midtower

 

Than you all for your help

Just want to thank everyone that gave me advice on my boat problem. The boat is now in the shop and they are going to replace the engine. Don't know the price tag yet? Hope its not extraordinary, had that happen once already.
Funds are low and hope they have mercy?

Again, thank you guys. Your knowledge on boats is fantastic and your willingness to take the time to help is more then kind, its extraordinary.

Midtower