Affordable seaworthy cruiser

Noted.

 

thanks , interesting boat

 

Greetings,

Strong back is completed and began sawing 2x12's into 3/4x3", left the t&g out, takes to much time to make. Spent alot of time gathering materials as well. Time breakdown to be posted later.

The sabb engine works very well now that its not cold and can actually start it by hand with two tries. The pod keel will be built first. Extremely busy so just been fiddling around maybe once per week.

The coupler does have set screw that can be wire tied to shaft but no square key way, is this little piece necesarry. Shaft and propeller boss at machinist if needed.

Next major purchase to be epoxy but concerned about late weather and might have to build shelter to work in. Shouldnt take long to set up and extra fuel costs but just to busy this season.

Peace.

 

This boat on top left was set up and framed by one person working alone in 30 days in the open by doing it the old, easy way.
It is built of boards and galvanized spikes with few tools.
It has bounced off of rocks with nothing but scratched paint and beaten old marina floats to toothpicks without noticeable damage to itself as well as enduring many gales and bad times at sea.
With proper maintenance it has lasted 35 years since the keel was laid and is almost like new.
Try any of the above with plywood unless you add lots and lots of cloth, epoxy and good engineering and then try the rocks part.
I. do. Not. Understand. Why some claim their particular interpretation of hand-me-down bronze age myth is literal truth on every page of their work, but refuse to learn from bronze age boatbuilders who were very very good, other than the gopherwood guy of course and the vague description of his raft with that barn built on it.
The actual scientific research into this early boat stuff has shown that it was highly technologically sophisticated a long time ago and all you have to do is copy how they did it to get a good boat.
Why reinvent something that's pretty easy and gives a good boat quickly and make it difficult and take a long time to build, expensive, and give a worse product?
The Vietnamese junks I've been posting, and show some of here, have build times of several weeks most of them and much better shapes than the fantasy bolgerbox we've been looking at for so long, hull with rig costs about the same as the engine installation so is about half total cost, use no epoxy, are intended for continuous industrial use, and the entire full toolbox you can pick up with one hand. They are universally hydrodynamically efficient. Many quite large and very light fast sailing ones are made of bamboo hulls, long and slim, especially those intended to be banged in on beaches day after day.
If you want to design and build a lousy, or at best dimly mediocre, boat, at least do a quick and dirty job with nails, construction adhesive and paint in a few weeks instead of wasting time, money and materials and months of agonizing over problems you didn't anticipate trying to make it perfect and last forever, and just get out there and use it.
If you actually sail enough in anything but a calm and protected waters in the boxy thing you've drawn you'll likely get in trouble and learn about repairs quite soon if your sailing experience is reflected in your design.
I say this as a sailor of 50 years ocean experience, that there is no room for the mix of ignorance and arrogance you exhibit on this forum at sea. Though I doubt the boat, if completed, will do much more than rot in its berth once you get scared a few times aboard, or injured in a gybe, or just so seasick from the quick and jerky motion inherent in the shape that you want to move to somewhere safe and far from the sea and never see a boat again.
One can B/S oneself. Your margin notes reflect that.
One can B/S those who know less than one. You draw intelligible pictures.
But one cannot B/S the ocean. The beaches of the world are strewn with the small worn scraps of the vessels of mariners who thought otherwise.
Good luck with your dreams Willy, but you lost absolutely all sympathy from me way back when you started pushing Dominion.

 

Missing top left pic.

 

Greetings to all and blessings to the called out.

Had to go with V-form to accomodate the sabb and 24.4" prop. Now emphasis is on engine power and sails for riding plus back up emergency.
Also decided to go with Aquatek for the exterior sheathing.

Three questions:
1. Where is recommended exhuast location, will be dry exhuast?
2. Air intake is below seat at helm, is that sufficient?
3. Should fuel tanks be built in with epoxy or should mild steel be used?

Hope to start in a few weeks.

 

Made mistake, resolution was to high and picture was cut off trying to change it, will try to upload tomorrow.

 

You're shitting me... God does not have an email address? Then how do those lying con-artists, otherwise known as christian tele-evangelists get my emails through to God? How will my prayers ever get answered?

Oh... Then how does my cash donations via paypal get to God?

You're not telling me that those christian tele-evangelsists are buying rolls-royce's, private jets and mansions with my donations to do Gods work, are you?

Am I being ripped off?

 

Hope this works

 

Hoped to have a sharpie hull but this will have to do with the engine available. Cut the nonsense and just answer the three questions.

 

Are you actually building ???
Have you read Bühler?(not sure about the spelling)

 

http://georgebuehler.com/

 

Set exhaust to windward of helmsman, but close, put air intake underwater and make fuel tanks of Kleenex. Yes, snark. If you can't figure these things out yourself you have no business designing your own boat.

 

1. Have heard exhuast coming back to cockpit when put at some sterns and can this be more prone to on a double ender?
2. Plain dont know about intake location being above engine and its efficiency.
3. Tanks built from mild steel would be no problem and serve as ballast, but have read from gougeon and buehler books that epoxy can be used but they have refrained from endorsing this due to liabilities.

 

Re: epoxy tanks,
Go with separate metal or plastic tanks.
Leave room for inspection and removal if necessary.
You don't know what the fuel will be like in 10 years.