Buccaneer 24 Builders Forum

Progress

I am working on my main hull this weekend to ready for launch next week- so here are a few pics of the float rebuild. They gained less than 15 lbs each even with the added trunk and hatch since the deck sections I removed were water logged 3/8 pine ply and the new decks are 1/4" "hydrotec' merenti. The hull bottoms on both floats had several sections of rot- around the 2,3, and 4th bulkheads and at several voids in the bottom skins where water had gotten in the voids through nail holes. I had a couple of places on both floats with about a 1/16th inch ply skin as all that was left. Scary! I also replaced bulkheads 2 and 3 with solid (water tight) vented "crash" panels- I race and the possibility of an "incident" is very real. . I have inspection ports in all three chambers for access. I have lots more pics and details for the future. I will build the boards as soon as I have the boat back in the water. B

 

Great stuff Bruce.
I think your restoration work is amazing considering you are working on a near forty year old wooden boat.
Looking forward to more pics.
Cheers. OS7.

 

Looking really excellent, Bruce - your first sail is going to be interesting - with the ogival foils. I've never used them but the Grogono brothers used them to great effect on Icarus and Icarus 11. Cheers.

 

foils

Thanks OS7, it is going well- but I have a very well built 40 yr old boat to work with Gary, I haven't built the foils yet- but I will start as soon as the boat is launched- this week I think. I am "planing" on using an almost flat bottomed sail plane profile, and I have not yet picked the profile but I have to soon to order the foam blanks. The trunks are set at a 2 degree angle of attack and designed for the flat a-boards, and the Ogival foils would also fit if I don't like my first try. My aerospace friends seem to think that those profiles offer me the best performance at the Buc's speeds- we will see, it should be interesting B

 

Book

I've been sick all weekend and haven
't done anything at all. Daughter felt sorry for me and givce me my B-day present early. It's a book by Glen L. Witt. Called boatbuilding with plywood, enlarged third edition for my tired eyes. Been skimming through it, has lots of info.

Thanks for your stuff bruce. Does anyone have any pics of the daggerboard case. How hard would a centerboard be to put in?

Enjoy the rest of your weekend. One day I'll figure to put pictures on this webset
Jim

 

It took

Thats my wife sailing the sabre 34 MKI she liked so much. I love it too, just too much uhkeep.

 

trunk

diego, there is not much to the daggerboard case- it is just two pieces of wood a little thicker than your dagger board thickness front and rear, and ply on each side. Just an open ended box. It mounts in a slot in the keel panel and braces the forward cross beam and mast step. A centerboard would take up all the space in the cabin floor unless it were offset to one side, and quite a lot of structure would have to be re-engineered. Not impossible, but not easy with the Buc's almost round hull profile. The b-28 had much more space to work with and the case became part of the structure. B

 

where are you guys buying the 6061-T6 4.75" dia x 0.104" tubes for the mast and connectors? I'm not having much luck finding such an animal on the interweb.

 

ALCOA.
Use 4 1/2' tube if 4 3/4" is not available.
That is what I used and Lock OK'd that. I had no problems with it.

 

Thanks Oldsailor.... So, just to be clear (because the specifications on the bucc 24 plans are presented differently than on the aluminum tube website)

This tube would be acceptable for the mast?

4-1/2" OD {A} x 4.250" ID {B} x .125" Wall {C} Tube 6061-T6 Aluminum-72"
SKU: t61r4.5x.125-72
Length Tolerance: Plus or Minus 1"
Approximate Piece Weight: 11.52 lbs
Approximate Total Weight: 57.60 lbs ((5) 72" sections; 30' total))
Cost: 269.30 total.

 

Sorry Rapscallion, am I reading your post wrong?
Hope you are not expecting to make your mast from 72" sections.
Mast must be one piece 30 ft long. Alcoa can provide.
Tubing in general will be OK at 4 1/2" dia as long as you maintain the same wall thickness.
Alcan was able to provide all my tubular requirements, cut to size, chamfered
and triple anodised.

 

The price changes with how much you buy... the 72" price is the cheapest one published. I would buy a single 30' section.

 

mast choices

While the round tube mast made to the plans may appear to be an in-expensive choice, a used mast can often be purchased with much of the needed equipment already installed and you will have a much better section for less money total. Complete derelict sailboats in the 25'-28' range are really cheap in the USA and often have a lot of useable equipment. On another note, my cross beams are 4.5" OD with 3/16 walls and quite available. B

 

prices

The "standard" tube section from most suppliers is 24'- longer is available, but often at increased prices. B

 

I'm getting ready to start building, but I'm scratching my head over a few things:
1. Grain direction is specified on the hull sides to be fore and aft. What about grain direction on the frames? Does it matter?
2. "Nail and glue all edging, etc onto frames and chines ... " what should nail spacing be?
3. Are the two questions above just common knowledge? (This is my first boat build) Is there a good reference book that covers standard practices for this type of construction?