14' Designed for aluminum

Unable to find a standard plan that fits my desires, I've designed this. Model is in steel (18 ga. except transom is 11 ga. over 3/16 wire frame). Uses would be lakes, rivers (no whitewater), tidewater (Oregon style). Fishing, day cruising.

Does the very shallow V fwd help any, or is it just a lot of added work for very little benefit (over flat bottom).

What range of HP could be used? Is my 8HP Merc enough for fishing and general cruising? I don't expect to get up on plane with this motor, obviously, but it would be nice if it achieved about 8mph.

I would expect it to be a stable fishing platform and reasonably comfortable at slower speeds. Will undoubtedly jar your teeth at plaing speeds.

What say you?


Scale 1 1/2"=1'
LOA 14'
Beam 64" max. 60" at transom
deadrise at transom 0 deg.
deadrise midships (7'6" fwd of transom) 9 deg.
bottom 4'-0" wide

 

DEAR GOD! I want one!!!
You'll probably top out safely at 15HP. If you don't put more than 9.9 HP on it, you can skirt most of the regulations for small boats.
That thing KICKS ***!!!!

 

Well Jack, your model is very nice.
I would say you should try your 8 horse motor. You might be surprised how well it goes.
I can't think of any suggestion that would make it simpler and so I won't suggest any that would make it more complicated.
I'm delighted that you didn't make the sheer straight from the point of maximum beam and aft like some manufacturers do. It makes all the difference in the looks department.
But you will need to take care in getting a really smooth (fair) curve to the sheer on the full size boat. Thanks for posting the pictures.
I hope you'll post pictures of the boat too.
Thanks.
Gilbert

 

Thanks, JDF and Gilbert. I'll be refining the design some.....slightly radiused instead of dead flat at the transom. This will make the chines parallel with the keel for about 40% of the bottom and strengthen the planing surface as well. I may also keep the keel line straight for a little further fwd to sharpen the "V" for a better entry at low speed. Basic lines will be the very similar. I'm also considering widening it a little, but unsure at this point. I'm afraid if I make it too wide it will not be rowable and I think it should be in the event of motor failure or lack of fuel.

 

Down South they would put 25 Hp on it!

Looks real good. I always wanted to build one just like it but now find I have to deal with surf, so I need a higher bow. Are you going to add seats?
Winston

 

Thanks Winston. Interior design not done yet. Still working on hull details. Just started a new model in 3"=1' (1/4 scale) and have changed width to 4'-10" bottom, now will move chine/sheer points in toward center more at bow, to be able to use 5' wide sheets. Seats will wait until I find out how much and where to put floatation. I've sent for a MIC application and understand the CG will help me iron that out. I plan to build a few of these in my shop to bolster my retirement income. We'll see how it pans out.

 

I have one question. Where the hell is Elmira, OR??? LOL Isnt that up by Fern Ridge Lake?
Very nice ,Jack. It's reminicent of the old Alumaweld "Vee Sled" style from the late 70's early 80's era. Are you a newcomer to aluminum boat building? I see you have good forthought(material usage), and a good sense of style. I couldnt agree more with Gilbert about your shear line, and he's right about it being tough to get a fair curve. Looks like you know what you are doing, but if you need any advice I have loads of experience with this type of craft. If you are not familiar with level flotation calculations they can be a frustrating nightmare. I can help. Feel free to ask.
You can use whatever size motor you want but if you are building to sell,one thing to remember is it's doubtful anyone would buy this boat to put an 8 hp motor on it. This is a very versatile design. Build it for multi pupose use. From trolling with a 9.9 to 30 mph river running. Trust me you wont be able to build enough of 'em(Just my suggestion) I would have no worries about sticking a 40 hp jet on this. Widen the bottom to 60" and lengthen to 15' and you could probably go 65 hp jet. You could easily run in 3-4 inches of water. With the variable deadrise from 9 deg to 0 deg in about 7 feet, you'll launch out of the hole! Be on plane in double it's own length,easy. The flat aft will be very stable and the vee front will aid in handling and smoothing the ride.
Ok, now for the Coast Guard. Did you fill out the MIC application, or did you just send a request for it? If you requested it, you will first get the "So you wanna be a boatbuilder" packet. Basicly it will try to talk you out of it. Then you have to get ahold of someone to send out an application to you. Good luck! Maybe they do it on purpose to weed out the non serious My MIC is in proccess right now, and only because after two weeks of talking to 30 different people at the USCG(some of which didnt know what an MIC was)I finally located a blank one from one of my local buddies. If you havent gotten an MIC app. let me know and I'll send you a copy of the form.(Incidently, the USCG inspector for this region is a fantastic guy. Very helpful. You want him on your good side.)
Best of luck iwith your endeavor, Joey

 

How tall are the sides?

 

Might well be market for your boat here in Ak and TX.

I have a brother-in-law in Texas that owns a marine dealership - lots of flat bottoms there and they need the shape you are designing. That is the area that I founded my desire for this shape because they have big lakes and the low cost boater uses 14 to 17 ft long aluminum boats.
Our river guides on the Keani river use 17 to 22 ft long aluminum boats that have a very shallow V. They are limited to 35hp but cheat with 50hp marked 35hp.
Winston

 

What thickness of plating will you use?

1/8 " gets a lot of attention (thicker than norma) in Texas but in Alaska 1/8 is all that is used. Here in Alaska we are running over rocks in rivers and lakes and that is a good reason for 1/8. No rowing any of these boats.
There are some shaply aluminum boats but the presses must be very costly.
We are using some 3/16 and 1/4 inch on my Gill Net Boat and have no luck shaping the 1/4" with block and tackle.
Winston

 

Right! On the Western shore of Fern Ridge mud hole. No lake this year....Corps has it dried up for repairs to the dam. It should be complete in late Fall though and ready for next year.

Medford. My birthplace. I attended Lone Pine School from 1946 until early 50's....It only had two classrooms then, as I recall. There was a hitching rail along one side of the school for those that rode horses to school. I visited the old school a few years ago and the old original building is still there. Lots added to it though.

Yes. I'm a new comer. In 1962, after four years with the Navy, I told the mustering out officer that I was going home to build boats. Now, after all these years, I'm finally getting serious about doing what I wanted to do way back then. I've been a metal worker all of my working life and even before. Now I'm semi-retired and taking SS. My door business has seen it's heyday come and go and now it's mostly gone. I have lots of acumulated tools and equipment and a 32'x60' clear span shop building with jib crane. I'm in the country on almost two acres, so noise shouldn't be a problem for the neighbors. With very little overhead costs and equipment at hand, I'm thinking I can fabricate a few boats to keep me busy and make a few dollars to supplement my SS income at the same time. I'm still working out details and researching both the design and business end, but at this point it looks good and I'm probably about 90% sure I'm going to do it.

I have called the CG and they are sending the MIC papers and application. At least that's what they told me. It should be here any time now. I called the number on their web site and the person that answered said he would send it next day. No questions asked and no down talk either. We'll see what I get.

 

Revised model is 4'10" wide bottom and 69" beam about midships. Sides are 20" with transom cut to 15" for short shaft. Bottom is slightly radiused at transom rather than dead flat. 3" bow in 5'. I'm making the model in steel over a wire frame like before only in 3"=1' scale (1/4 scale). I'll post pictures of it here when finished.

 

Jack,

Here's a plan that might stir some ideas.

http://www.bodenboatplans.com/power/details.aspx?id=168

Hoagey

 

Certainly similar, but not quite the same. Hard to see in such a small drawing. Using CG formulas the design I'm working on should take a 30HP max in one configuration and 45HP in another. I'm wondering why the plan in the link states on 15HP?????

 

Progress on "New Improved" 1/4 Scale model

I've made a few changes that I think will improve lines, strength and performance. The Chine and keel lines are now parallel for about half the length from transom forward in both plan and profile views. The bottom at the transom is slightly radiused as are the sides at the transom. The chine/sheer point near bow is drawn in toward the center to make use of 5' wide sheet. She's broad in the beam.

Spec's. as it stands now.

LOA 14'
Beam at transom 66"
Max. Beam (MS) 90"
Transom 15"
Sides at transom 20"
Sides at max. (MS) 22"

I hope you can make out the lines in spite of the cluttered back ground.