Alternative to marvelous Buccaneer 24

very nice looking, thanks for update.
I love the curvy deck area towards the stern, or is that cockpit area?
can we get a shot from a bit higher up and/or looking down forward to midships?

 

Munter, the rig will have two base spanners, normal for wing rigs, and there will be double cambering lines, two sets, running from the hounds battens to the long D main spar interior and down to base, plus another halfway between ... so when the base spanners are rotated and the batten tensioned lines are tightened, between the two you'll get more camber set into the double soft sail. That's the idea anyway ... but there's sure to be changes and tweaking.
Captn. I've turned the hull over and set it aside amongst the trees so to begin on the main beam ... but here are a couple of earlier shots.

 

====
I love the look of that hull-a masterpiece! Any idea of the weight?

 

Two of us can easily pick it up, rolling it over is a little more difficult because of the flared hull width and you've got to lift it to shoulder height - at a guess, around 45 kgs.

 

A progress small. Weighs around 20 kgs at this stage.
Have been rethinking the wing rig, now considering not having the double soft sail second element but a three element rig with the second hard element being able to be swung forward so that, like a folding screen, in this case it halves the projected hard sail area ... for on a mooring, for safety ... laughs!
Have to sort out the control levers etc to fold or fit into slots set into the main element. The third element will be, maybe, a leading edge slat, symmetrical in cross section but which can also lie across the front of the two main elements while moored. Just an idea. I'll post drawings later.

 

Fantastic!

That hull is just elegant - in looks and engineering! Very inspiring and shows just what can be done with good old 'simple' ply and epoxy. Thanks for the excellent pics of the stages. Very helpful. Will keep watching with great interest.

 

Fitting the rudder and the steering setup; since this shot, I've reduced the rudder depth and also the foil area - just looked too much, not scientific but I trust my eye and empirical experience/mistakes from the past. It is easy to lift the stern so foil area can be quite small. 2.4 m floats are finished, beam shifted around the side of the house ready for transport. It weighs 46 kgs, heavier than the main hull. All up platform weight, no rig should be around 110 kgs. Next job is to make the J foil cases.

 

She looks great, I want one

110kgs is amazing, less than my Hobie 16

How does the rudder work, I'm thinking a tube through the unshaped upper section? Can the rudder be used in a partially raised position?

Great Work

 

Gypsy28, no, the rudder can only function fully down. On my larger tri foiler, I have a secondary, smaller, no T foil, rudder and separate case that can be used with the main one lifted. The Sid tiller/arm connecting rods just attach to cams (rudder one not in picture) but you can see the tiller arm setup forward near shallow cockpit. The rudder/cam pins have to be disconnected to lift when entering shallow water. It is a slight hassle ... but you have to live with it since this is an inverted T rudder assembly. The alternative is a swinging transom arrangement (still can't use it at halfway mark), is a brake, also complex to build. This setup, once down it is locked vertical so you forget about it, no rope stretching (causing foil negative angle of attack) or cam release problems. However, be pleased to hear any other solutions.

 

Awesome work Gary.

 

=================
Gary, this is an extraordinary design can't wait to see it sailing! Just out of curiosity, why not hang the rudder on a slightly higher transom-it would allow
use from all the way down to most of the way up?

 

Lots of progress

Gary, you have been busy- I know how long those "little" pieces take. B

 

Yes, a transom setup would allow differing rudder/foil heights - but, and probably showing inflexibility here, prefer underhung rudders with hull end plate effect ... which is better in light airs, because the rudder can be of smaller area, but still have better efficiency than transom aerated design (always trying to minimize everything) but, agreed, once flying there is no difference between underhung and transom setups.

 

Gary, this is from Pierre Gutelle, p186 in case you haven't seen it:

click on image-

 

On my "Marvelous B24" in 1971, I had 1/2" alloy L angle strips screwed to the overhanging rudder with countersunk headed screws. One near the surface, one half way down, and one near the tip.
The idea was that the little fences would form vortices which would spin off any entrained air from the surface and enable rudder efficiency in rough conditions where the rudder was subject to violent vertical movements.
Worked well for me.