Buccaneer 24 Builders Forum

John Jolly asked me these questions and suggested they might be of interest on this thread.

Hi Pat,
Received the Buc plans quite promptly a few days ago - many thanks, the attached article of your build is interesting reading, I have not studied them in great detail although they appear to be quite straight forward, one thing begs a question immediaely upon looking at the plans is what woodworking joints did you use for framing of the ply formers I am thinking on purchasing a power Biscuit jointer ! - would appreciate your views on this matter.
Cheers John

No John, You don't need a biscuit jointer. All the frames are butt jointed with epoxy glue. Note the frames are on the front of the ply panels from #5 frame forward, and on the back from frame #6 aft, That allows the frame to be chamfered to match the curve of the hull skin without cutting into the edge of the ply. Hope this helps.
Cheers Patrick.

Pat, many thanks for your reply - there is one other question, the inboard rudder verses the transon hung rudder - not sure which way to go! can you give me any advice.
Thanks John

Yes John.
Unless you are going to race and sail all the time in deep water the transom hung rudder is better. If you make the stock with a semi circular top, grooved, with up and down lines epoxied at 180deg apart, leading into plastic jam cleats on the deck of the transom, it is safer, and can be rotated out of the water when moored.

Thanks Pat, thats all very helpfull - no doubt i will have further questions along the way which can be posted to the forum......

Thanks again for your help & best regards John

 

b24 plans

hi oldsailor,
i have been reading some older post's, and i saw you had some plans for a buccaneer 24, i was just wondering, do u still have them or are u able to print more?

i used to own "Silverbird" b24 that lived in Melb

was a fun toy, i am thinking of building a new one.

thanks for your help

 

Yes Goth. I have one set of plans available for immediate delivery.
Please PM me for details.

 

ummmm, call me a little slow........but how do i pm u???

on your profile it say's no email to this user.

i cant see a link or other option....... sorry for the trouble ''


i'll have to post a pic of silverbird for all to see
i think shes still in melb some where.

it was owned by tony, just before he built the first "Granger 075"
"born to run"
it had a good Race life

 

Goth.
You can't Pm or E-mail until you have racked up five posts on these forums, and waited 24 hrs.

 

oh ok sweet, it will be soon then

so has anyone made a b24 wider???

i'm thinking of making it 24x24 with a 35 foot ish rig
ive seen pics of the Green one with the big main
Nice

how do the new beam's proform?
any twist or racking from the change?

 

just making 5 post's
thanks all

 

Goth.
You still need to make another post before I can PM you (or you me).

 

yes

you see the last two are post 4.......both of them, it didnt quite go to plan lol

 

'Getting your hull formers onto your ply'

There are many methods builders use, this is what I do.
Firstly you need to open up your patterns plan sheet on to a table with a tablecloth or thin towel underneath and Iron out all the fold marks, use a domestic Iron at the lowest possible heat (do not use steam, empty the Iron of water and make sure the foot is clean).
Next you will need card sheet for your templates, carbon paper and a blunt edge Tracing wheel, the card sheet I use for templates is the thickest backing paper for linning domestic home interior walls, a large roll of it will cost about £5 GBP from your local DIY store, you will also need to purchase a Tracing wheel, there are many on the market that are very sharp and will cut through your plans and distroy them, so it is important to get the correct one - the Clover Tracing wheel with blunt edge made in Japan is the best and the one I use (available on ebay)

By using the above method you will get very accurate templates and it will allow you to place them on your very expensive 8x4 ply sheet and utilise every available space, it is a lot easier and much more cost effective than trying to trace direct to the ply, of course the larger sizes of hull sides etc will be measured off directly to the ply.
I hope the above will be helpfull to builders of the Buc 24

 

Bigger fm/glss cabin?

I think I would want a little taller cabin (I'm 6'3") but adding myself is already upping the weight, so any other arguments, besides time and money, against making the cabin in foam/glass?

And I posted a couple other questions on the Bucc 24 page, but saw that this one was a little more active at the moment. I won't re-post them for now.

 

I can't think of any reason why not. Just so long as you include a hardwood mast step support.

 

you could just put a flared bit on the sliding hatch.......give u head room at the back only, i dont think it woild look to bad either. ( think of the spray doger on a open 60 tri)
that kinda look.

 

John Jolly, Congrats on a very useful post on getting it done, We need alot more
of the same, Waterat.

 

bigger cabin cont...

While certainly very functional, a dodger would also change the appearance and I've spent several months now looking at trimarans in the 22-27 range and I've grown very fond of the Bucc's aesthetics. On a more practical note, I will most likely want to increase the length of the side bunks in addition to gaining more headroom while standing in the center hull. I haven't gotten my plans yet, so I'm not sure how long the bunks are, perhaps someone could fill me in; but I think I will want to increase the overall size of the cabin which is why I was pondering making it in foam/glass.