Stainless steel (feul)tank

Daniel,

This company makes tanks in any size or shape you want.
Go to 'tankenbouw vof' en than click on 'meer'.

http://www.freetechnics.nl/

Also for stst tanks, call a couple of small boat builders in your area and ask around, I'm sure you'll find someone that can weld you one. Ofcourse you'll have to provide the patterns!

 

THX,

Il give them a call when I find a tini bit of time. Providing the paterns won't be a problem.

But I might consider to make them in GRP

Greetz

Daniel

 

If you are still worried about water in the gas--- buy and install a fuel filter / water seperator for the fuel line. Put it where you can look at it and check it easely. Outboard motors drink condensated water and gas all the time. Bright red tank in the hot sun all day, then sundown and water vapor is sucked in every night. Nobody has problems. Now if you leave the gas cap loose and rip around in the rain. It should still settle to the bottom. Engine running wide open after a fill up will get some water in the engine. STILL should drink it and run like nothing happened. I know, I have done them all at least twice.

 

On The other hand diesel engine injectors do not do well with water and can be distroyed by water in the injector tip.

 

Daniel,

Richard is right, I'd just like to add that I suggest a duplex filter. This is a double filter allowing you to change filter with engines running.

Regards,

 

Richard, you are an amazing guy - keep on going!
Regards
Brien

 

Dutch Peter. I know YOU have complete faith in the 4 bypass valves that must work perfectly to change the filter while the engine is running.--- BUT--- NO one else should EVER EVER change any part of a fuel system with the engine running. Some fuel tanks have a primary electric PUMP built in. It runs as long as the ignition is left in the RUN position. 1 of the 4 valves leaks --- gas engine--- you will have a spraying of fuel that instantly is in your lungs and the completly fills the engine compartment. POOF! --- Diesel--- Why oil coat, spray all of the above areas? Change the filter ONLY after the engine has cooled down. STOP THE ENGINE --- STOP THE ENGINE. You should always assume some drippage, when you take ANY FILTER apart. Catch pan and rags are needed.

 

Richard,

Not trying to be a wish-***, but I was talking about something like this. Quality duplex filter with drip pan, drain valve, one hand operation.
And I agree with you that NORMALLY you'll stop the engine and do a good job, but I recommended a duplex filter for the emergency cases, better an oily engine room then on the rocks!

 

You really need a anchor and 200' of line with a heavy 5' piece of chain. Wait a minute . Both filters were clean when we left the dock, right? Then, all we do is flip the correct levers and we safely make port. NO opening filters while running. You had me for a minute.

 

I believe the ABYC ( or a similar orginization) limits stainless steel tanks to something like 20 gallons and then to a certain shape, round like a hot water tank or an air compressor tank. I think the reason was welding created hard spots and that subsequent flexing created cracks.

 

Samsam,

Hardspots are not created by welding but by stiffeners are other structures (and thereby the loads they take) ending in a plate field. If what you're (read: ABYC) saying is true, there wouldn't be a single ship sailing on this earth. Can't thinks of any reason why the ABYC would ask for something like that, except when it's related to gasbottles.
Anyone knowing the background to this???

 

Sorry Dutch Peter but porosity and fracturing in stainless is created by welding. As I pointed out before the heating causes the a separation of the alloys that make up Stainless steel. This results in what is known as "crevice corrosion" and possible failure. It is a common and troublesome problem in much of stainless work underwater and sometimes above. (such as in tanks) ABYC did limit to the tanks as described by SamSam but I think they have changed to allow them if they are welded with certain alloys like 317L. As I said before, you can build good stainless tanks but they must be done by a good expereinced builder! Just sticking the corners together will end in dissappointment.
And I know that CE is very strict in the testing and installation of stainless tanks...I have had to deal with them before!
Please do not give anyone the impression that water in fuel tanks is no problem. Even if you have the greatest filters possible it is the source of much damage and breakdown in ALL types of engines and many a good ship has come to grief on the rocks because of it. Yes---buy the best filtration system you can afford but make sure you keep your tanks clean and water free.

Richard
I have never heard of a primary fuel pump on a boat being in the tank, like on a car. Which boats are those? Why doesn't it go off when you shut off the engine switch?

 

about a year ago Dave Gerr had an article on the threads subject in proffesional boatbuilder magazine.

 

I've read somewhere that it is not advisable to build diesel tanks out of stainless steel. Rather uses mild steel plate with the insides untreated. The reasons given I can't remember anymore.
Perhaps someone can chime in here.

As for welding stainless steel tanks I would go the TIG way. Superior in every way to other welding methods.

 

That's what I wanted to point out; mild steel without any treatment is less vulnerable to condensation. This common belief in my community still exists.
BTW the CE regulations do not permit any FRP fuel tank, so I am advised.