Exhaust problem Simms Super V

Hi all Just droped in a V6 3 litre Capri engine into a 17' Simms Super V. I have a large box of bits for a unfinished project and wondering whats missing from the exhaust outlet. Are the exhaust manifolds on upside down or are they ok as there resting on the bilge floor. And will I get away with just a riser with a u bend high up or is something else needed like a one way valve etc as I'm concerned about water entering the engine. Hope some one can understand and help THANKS
I have oil cooler and engine cooler yet to fit hope picture helps someone.

 

Those home made manifolds won't work. The engine will fill with water. You need manifolds with a top exit with a riser on them.

 

The manifolds you have need a riser ,the whole of the U part needs to be above the waterline .You then inject the water just below and after this bend,the easiest way is to braze a ss tube directly through the top of the bend ,terminating internally below it .I say braze because it looks from your pictures as though the exhausts terminate in a BSP thread ,which will screw into galvanised iron plumbing fittings. Thus 4 galvanised elbows and some barrel nipples will make a riser, and of course they are easily replaceable when they rot. The big disadvantage here is that you end up with a fairly large chunk of hot pipe before the water is injected. I do not remember if these manifolds will reverse or if they do, whether or not that will gain you some height but if they do and will ,it will shorten the length of the riser.
I enclose a photo of some similar manifolds on a Rover V8. These are actually installed with the exhaust outlets at the front of the engine and because of this as you can see do not use a riser as such ,but they do have the plumbing fittings with the water injectors There are two rubber flaps on the exhaust ends {see a recent post by CDK on this subject }These have performed for some 10 yrs ,the injection bends have been replaced once, the manifold are 316 stainless and will outlast the engine. Your other option is to talk to Mike Bellamy at Lancing Marine ,they used to stock V6 manifolds and risers ps
If my poor old eyes are wrong about the thread on the end of the pipe ,then I am afraid my post is only worth what you paid for it

 

Looking at your photo again ,it would appear that your manifolds are on the wrong sides I only say this because it is good practice to feed the manifold with water from underneath and exhaust this water from the top . would this raise the height of the manifold ? I cannot tell from the photo. And whilst I think of it make sure you put a strainer/filter in the water inlet line ,the one you use should be able to deal with pressure not suction.

 

Just drawn a pic as photo not that clear.
Think my son could have drawn better though lol

 

I can't see a drawing

 

My e-mail just returned me to your posting. You may remember earlier this year you were looking for a flywheel ,I mentioned then that you should determine if the engine was an Essex or Cologne, well here it becomes important. The V6 was available in many different capacities ,but there were bigger differences depending on where they were made ,all Ford V6's are not the same engine.I am pretty sure that yours is an Essex as you have three exhaust ports on each side and the distributor is on the front. Now I think that the only V6 exhaust manifolds currently available are for the Cologne 2,8 engine ,which had only 4 exhaust ports because two on each side were siamesed. In this case you may be stuck with what you have anyway unless somebody has some old stock. Dry aftermarket risers were quite common at one time and are safe if properly lagged ,some Nicsons even came with a BSP tapped rear flange ready to accept plumbing fittings. Have a word with Mike Bellamy at Lancing Marine on 01273410025 even if he has nothing in stock to help you. he always gives good advice.

 

here it is sorry

 

I had misinterpreted the perspective on the photos to show the exhaust pipes exiting from the rear flange as in my photo ,the drawing was a bit of a surprise. These manifolds are clearly not ideal but I assume you are on a budget with this ,and this is fine as long as safety is never compromised. The manifolds presumably worked in the past ,so ,how many other ways will they bolt on ,can you swap them from side to side with the exhaust uppermost for example ? What material are the manifolds made of ? Are the relative heights of the exhausts as shown in the drawing ,more or less accurate?

 

Hi all decided to swap manifolds around this will allow the exhaust outlet to be well above engine and water line. I will reposition the water exit to highest point on the exhaust riser and fit a one way valve that I've aquired to exhaust outlet on transom.
Hoping that will work. If anyone thinks it wont work let me know THANKS

 

Thanks anthony yes I'm on a budget but will spend if needed. The water cooled manifolds I have dont look that home made and are new there made from stainless and as there all I've got so I'm hoping to use them if I can the picture I drew is acurate ish. I've decided to turn them round giving the much needed height which will keep the hot exhaust of the bilge bottom and well above water level. Thanks

 

Hopefully that will work ,but make sure that you inject the water AFTER the highest point of the riser, which under the circumstances may not rise at all ,and on a rearward and downward trajectory ,I am pleased they are stainless , anything else would not be worth persisting with.hopefully your one way valve is just a flap valve ,as anything else will restrict the exhaust and be unreliable. All unjacketed pipe before water injection should be lagged and kept as short as possible ,perhaps consider having a jacket welded where possible. Good luck with this and let us know how you get on. On a sllghtly different subject ,if your engine is an Essex it will probably have a fibre timing gear ,it may be worth just popping the front cover and checking the condition of this they were fitted for quietness but were not long lasting the rest of the engine is usually bombproof.