Hughes 26?

Discussion in 'Multihulls' started by SpiritWolf15x, Jun 18, 2010.

  1. Jasonsansfleece
    Joined: Oct 2009
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    Location: Maine, USA

    Jasonsansfleece Junior Member

    TrifleII
    Thanks for posting the pictures. Compared to my boat she sits much higher in the water (posts #8 and #30) If Caiman is reading, how does your boat sit?

    My boat starts to throw back a lot of spray, starting at 9 kts. Does your boat?

    Do either of you have the short open daggerboard case and if so do you have issues with water ingress at speed?

    Guy
     
  2. ThomD
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    Location: TO

    ThomD Senior Member

    I was very leery about the balsa initially, thought it was insane really. But I have lived with it for 20 years, and it seems to hold up. Really, anything with wood in it can be a total write-off if the water gets ahold of it. A lot of stuff will be just fine, I have come across exposed wood, and thought I was for it, but a little glass and back to normal. |Then again it can be rebuild time.

    I have been consoled over time by the huge number of boats being built in duracore, which was just starting when I built mine. I have paid a lot of attention to Australian detailing when I could see examples of it, and mostly it is a case of pour on the glass.

    I am not too sure what the alternatives are. The only D30 I sailed on, Roble's, I think he did plywood with stringers. I didn't use balsa on my amas, because the numbers said they would be lighter and cheaper without. My amas have done pretty well.

    One consequence for me is a real aversion to deck hardware. There are only three things going through my deck, the mast step, the forward cleat, and two winches. :)
     
  3. ThomD
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    ThomD Senior Member

    I have already mentioned my experience with the DB slot. In theory a moving boat ought to pull water out of there. That is how it worked for me. My only problem is that the waterline is too low when I stop. I only have about 2 inches. The new plans show a higher collar.

    So I wonder, what details cause suction and what details cause pressure? Mine is basically a square slot .25" wider than the board. The board is held in there by the blocks fore and aft. The forward block contours the nose of the board, and the aft block fills most of the space around the trailing edge of the board for about 4 inches. My blocks are glassed corecell, so how good they would be at crushing is another mater. They do release the board in some crash situations.
     
  4. TrifleII
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    TrifleII New Member

    I don't have problems with water ingress at speed as the dagger board case has a removable ply case which fits above the board. It is removed by six screws to hold it in place.

    I completely agree about holes in the deck - I have far too many and although I followed the mantra of filling any oversized hole with bog etc, some of mine still failed. The main problem area I have is at the main hull bow where the pulpit was badly installed (not by me). I have had to remove 7 feet of the deck and about 6 sq feet of topside and laminate new deck area (no core). Almost done now but a major job under a tent etc.
     
  5. caiman
    Joined: Dec 2008
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    Location: Wales

    caiman Junior Member

    Caiman also throws up some spray.I'm toying between making some kind of folding spray hood,or a small'dog house' over the companionway.I don't really want to spoil the lines of the boat.I get some spray into the aft end of the bunks,so a curtain is also on the list.
    I'm hoping to be sailing this W/E,I'll try take a pic of the water level in the keel box.
    Caiman sits right on Her A/F line.At the moment She is a trimed aft by about 2 inches.I've got a lot of weight aft since I'm playing with the stowages,as well as all the other stuff.
     
  6. caiman
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    caiman Junior Member

    Pic taken last season.
    Cheers
     

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  7. caiman
    Joined: Dec 2008
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    caiman Junior Member

    Pics of water lines.I am hopeing to put a vid on YT showing the spray as seen on todays sail.I noticed that water is shooting up the gap between the bobstay(?) fitting and the hull,it can only be a couple of mil gap,I can soon sort that.The idea of a spray rail on the bows also crossed my mind.
    I make no apology for the state of the boot top.I am conducting a side by side survey of 2 different types of antifouling and I don't want to clean the hull until about September when the growing season is starting to fade.Stb is the 'cheap' side.While it is not as good as the 'expensive' side,it is more than half as good,and it is half the price.
    Cheers.
     

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  8. ThomD
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    ThomD Senior Member

    What are the better/practical brands of anti founling. My lake is so clean the boat doesn't really foul. But can't count on that for ever.
     
  9. caiman
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    caiman Junior Member

    I cannot give an opinion of fouling in fresh water since I have no experiance(to date!)
    I live at the coast and there are no significant lakes in UK,compared with other countries.
    The antifouling that does work on my local estuary is 'International Micron CSC'.However it is approx £75/2.5 litre.(I apologise for the metrification,but it's too late to change.)I have maintained a couple of 40 odd foot motor boats, that stayed afloat,12 months of the year, for over a decade apiece,in the main flow of our local estuary,work was paying,and they chose Micron.Good choice,however,I pay for my own and so am on a budget.
    Has anyone put spray rails on a multihull?There was a thread on here about Hydropter, with a,pic showing the spray off one of the foils, hitting a perpendicular surface on the foil,and thereby gaining 'lift'.Is that feasable?Too be honest,I would just like to reduce the spray to keep below dry.
    Cheers.
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2010
  10. ThomD
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    ThomD Senior Member

    Where are you thinking of adding these rails. At one time many multis had external shears and part of the idea was to keep spray down. Everything got melted over the years and bows go plumber, with the effect that they often looked like pumps raising water over the bow. The trend to reverse bows just takes this further.

    http://www.wingo.com/newick/cheers.html

    If you look at the bows of this very low little boat, you can see (bottom pic) that is has long plates installed to keep the wet in the water, and the nose from sticking. This kind of thing used to be fairly comon, just angled stringers on the bow sides... Can't say how well any of it worked.
     
  11. caiman
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    caiman Junior Member

    I was thinking along the lines of something like these,obviously proportionatly sized.My skills would only stretch to a straight rail,and I'm only thinking about it at the moment.A spray dodger would give other benefits.
    Cheers.
     

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  12. ThomD
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    ThomD Senior Member

    While I wouldn't necesarilly say it is the best way to go, I put full length keels on a small cat by cutting a notch into a piece of ply, and then building up epoxy along the keel and scraping the board along. I tied a stringer next to the work, that I used to align the board I was molding the keel with. There are several advantages to this system (based on how one molds a plaster cornice). In my case I wanted something that would be rugged and would allow me to attach a stainless shoe without worries of degrading the ply bottom. In your case it is flexible as to the surfaces it will conform to, and you don't have to worry about attaching stuff to the hull that will introduce rot or structure problems.
     
  13. Jasonsansfleece
    Joined: Oct 2009
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    Jasonsansfleece Junior Member

    I'm not sure the spray rail approach would work. It may catch some or maybe more but that means you are still getting wet!

    This is my proposal; you can see my present tramps in the attached picture.
    Have a bow net made in a similar construction to the main net (perimeter fabric) but instead of lashing it to the hull have a bolt rope sewn to the edge and a plastic or aluminium extrusion fastened to the hull that accepts the bolt rope. The net is now "sealed" to the hull.
    Under the net, attached to the perimeter fabric (with velcro to allow breakaway?) is an additional piece of fabric cut to the necessary width to prevent any spray getting through the mesh.

    Lots of work and money but the getting wet is tiresome and not conducive to family fun (or bachelor fun for that matter)
     

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  14. caiman
    Joined: Dec 2008
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    caiman Junior Member

    Good idea,I'm thinking about bow nets,and it would be easy to incorporate a strip of fabric next to the hull laced through the netting/sewn into bolt rope etc.Even if not 100% waterproof,it would reduce spray substantualy,what does get through will be slowed, and may not reach the cockpit.Better idea than mine.
    Cheers
     

  15. caiman
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    caiman Junior Member

    Sorry to vandalise your photo-looks ok though,and the boat can be put back to standard easy enough.That is definatly the way forward for me.Nice one.
    Cheers
     

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