Titebond III testing

Discussion in 'Wooden Boat Building and Restoration' started by longfellow, Apr 20, 2009.

  1. ancient kayaker
    Joined: Aug 2006
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    ancient kayaker aka Terry Haines

    I get the vet type from my local farmer's store, I'm in a rural location, but the tips on those have the same ID all the way down so cutting off some doesn't speed up the flow. I'll look to see if there is a type that takes a larger needle, though. It's a pity someone doesn't market a double barrel type like the ones the 3 minute epoxy comes in, with the mixing spout that S3 uses on their cartridge system - that would be great.
     
  2. hoytedow
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    hoytedow Carbon Based Life Form

    There are some cheap plastic turkey basters, if the epoxy flows easily enough.
     
  3. ancient kayaker
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    ancient kayaker aka Terry Haines

    I will definitely check out those, should be easier to fill and use, maybe even re-usable too if easy to clean. This is a good time of year ...
     
  4. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Epoxy just pops right out of these types of plastics.
     
  5. hoytedow
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    hoytedow Carbon Based Life Form

    Yeah, just make sure the residual plug(waste)isn't too large.
     
  6. ancient kayaker
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    ancient kayaker aka Terry Haines

    Thanks for the info!
     
  7. metal
    Joined: Jun 2010
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    Location: Monterey, CA

    metal Junior Member

    Sorry to drag up an old thread. I wish I had found this earlier. I'm building my first boat, a 12 foot flat bottomed dinghy, unfortunately with titebond 3. I fiberglassed the bottom and all the seams, and put plenty of epoxy on there. This little boat is never really going to see rough, choppy seas, it's more of a learning experience and a fun way to blow a few dollars. Should I be worried? I'm not going to cut it up, throw it away, and start over. Is there anything I can do to make sure it stays good and strong? I fiberglassed the bottom and all the seams like I said, and I epoxied the entire outside, sanded it smooth(ish) and used lots of exterior paint. Should I fiberglass/epoxy the seams on the inside as well, maybe add some more bracing to the inside of the boat? The roughest this boat will see is maybe 1-2 foot waves, and it'll alternate between an old 5 horse outboard and a small sail.
     
  8. pistnbroke
    Joined: Jan 2009
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    Location: Noosa.Australia where god kissed the earth.

    pistnbroke I try

    Having read the reports on titebond 3 it seems you would be best to keep the water away from it ..so yes epoxy and glass tape over any area that could bring the TB 3 into contact with water..you dont say if its stitch and glue or frame construction etc
     
  9. apex1

    apex1 Guest

    No need to apply glass, that only makes it heavier and more expensive. Neat Epoxy or even several layers of outdoor paint will do the trick!
    BUt, Ep does not like to stick on titebond!!!
    So, apply three or so layers of outdoor paint (housepaint) on the interior and done!

    Regards
    Richard
     
  10. metal
    Joined: Jun 2010
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    metal Junior Member

    pistnbroke, it's a frame construction (I think). Thanks apex1. I have a gallon and a half of paint for a small boat, I'll keep adding paint until it's all gone haha. That should do the trick. At least it will be on a trailer, covered and secured, most of the time; it will probably only get used about once a month or so, so I imagine it'll last pretty well. Thanks!
     
  11. apex1

    apex1 Guest

    It will donĀ“t worry................:cool:
     

  12. metal
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    metal Junior Member

    Sweet. Thanks again!
     
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