Cost Of Traditional Wood Build Vs Various Modern Techniques

Boston,
"Elements on boat strength" by Dave Gerr is probably what you are looking for, or what you should be looking for. It's a good start for us amateurs.
Erik

 

thats exactly the one I was thinking of

 

a while back someone mentioned my target of 25000 lbs on this thing was not going to happen
they were right

cheers
B

ok so after a couple days of adding stuff up I come up with about 32~34,000 lbs as a fully loaded weight
including 4000 fuel 2000 water 1000 stores

I actually came up with 30390 but I forgot a few things (sink microwave and refrigerator for instance ) so I bumped it up to an estimate of 34 just for now and Ill refine that as I go so I can do a good righting moment calculation eventually

 

The silicon bronze screws cannot be that expensive.
Check this out:www.j2depot.com

 

did I ever mention how much I just hate slotted screws ?
somewhere on this planet there is a manufacturer of Philips head silly bronZ screws who would just love to sell to me for cheap

 

10 or more at Jamestown Dist is $1.62 ea.

 

Since the thread started by alsking the question about different building methods, have you done a cost comparison of FG or Steel ? Dont forget the painting - thats can be a huge cost.

 

nah I never really even considered anything but wood types

GRP
metal fab
nothing like that really interests me
Im a glorified carpenter so I want to build in wood
likely cold molded and likely with some kind of sandwiched wood species

 

You learn fast mate!

It´s just a few days ago I brought that up here.

Regards
Richard

 

actually it took me quite a while to finally get it through my thick skull how I wanted to build this thing

next big question is what to use for planking
If its going to be impregnated anyway what issues are there with woods having poor rot resistance characteristics before the impregnation process
seems kinda a moot point given that if properly impregnated the wood it essentially rot proof anyway. The pieces are thin in a cold mold skin so they are conducive to good penetration which is key to ensure durability that and a hull design that does not contain a lot of tight curves.

anyway thanks
B

PS
working again and socking it away for the day

cheers

 

Asking for the optimum I would still recommend a structure of :
Ironwood / Kiri / Ironwood
to make a strong, rot free, wooden sandwich.

When I come across a superior material I will let the Forum know, but I doubt that.

The species are:

Eusideroxylon zwageri
and
Paulownia tomentosa

Go for a bead and cove when you use them for strip planking. Contrary to common believe it saves time and money, and it makes building / fairing a lot easier.

Regards
Richard

PS hit the positive feedback button only once! The second attempt does not count.

 

I was hoping to use domestic hardwoods

 

We all hope to cut corners..............

in the end you have to invest in proper material...

Cheap is the trick to **** myself, it costs more to **** them all.


Regards
Richard

 

Well Ive returned to the working world and am loving it, plans are all on hold while I stay focused and save save save. Having reread the thread its interesting to note that some of the best advice was early on and pretty much everyone agreed that a traditional plank on frame of an older design was going to represent the best bang for the buck as well as the lowest long term costs in maintenance and repairs. Some one will undoubtedly chime in with a fiberglass suggestion if they have not read the thread but my talents lie if the wild world of wood so thats what I'm going to be building out of

what I have not considered yet is size constraints

I was just looking at the haul out charges at a marina up in the Ketchikan area and there not cheap at all. I'd be way better off going with a modest size vessel in the under 40' range. Much bigger and everything seems to get pricey fast. I'm kinda curious to see how often I'd have to get pulled out for cleaning and maint up there but I seem to remember every two years being a norm out on the cape where I grew up.

difference in hauling out a 47' vessel and a 37' vessel is pretty darn huge

 

A traditionally built (plank-on-frame) hull, un-sheathed, should be hauled at least once a year. Even if you don't need new antifoul paint, you'll want to scrub the weeds off and touch up the scrapes and bangs.

If you are careful and mind your P's & Q's, Alaska has big tides and you can dry out on a tidal grid (make your own) for bottom work....small or no cost.