30' plywood sharpie

Angel,
sorry, I'am a little late for a response. Yes, you are right, the modified Mystic looks a little boxy. In Troy's boat this effect would be not so critical, because his hull is very low and has generous overhangs in it's sides.

My first idea was to check the freebord by adding the waterline to see how much the hull will dig into the water and then to look if the freebord can be rasised a little to ensure sitting headroom. Troy's hull is far to low to look boxy with this modifiacation, especially if the cabin hight would be reduced by the same amount.

But Troy is happy with his proportions and so there is no problem at all.

Grrreetings from the North Sea Coast, Michel

 

How about a tonneau cover?

 

A solid version could be a option . . . . . . . . . . . . .



. . . in combination with a sliding companionway hatch.

Good Luck!
Angel

 

Hi Michel,

A thoughtful response is always welcome. No matter what timing . .

About the Mystic's in post #338, I think both will have their over all looks improved by putting just a little rounded corners on the windows. Those angular windows in general give a box-like look to the cabin.

Agree.


See for a possibility to increase headroom in your own sharpie the NIS radiused bottom method described earlier in this thread in post #231 and #253.


Good Luck!
Angel

 

round bottom

Hi Angel,

My sharpie will be of the "Egret" Type and has a little more freebord than the inshore type, Troy is designing. So my proportions are less critical in the matter of headroom. In the moment I have nearly 4 feet over the bunks from bottom to cabintop. More than enough to sit comfortably. In my eyes max headroom in the middle of the cabin is not so important, because everything you will do inside in a boat like this, will be done sitting or lying.

My boat will have a radiused bottom, but just as round as plywood can be tortured in two directions. Anything else will be to much work and distroy the simple concept of the boat. Give me 2 or 3 weeks to finish my actual sketches and I will make some photos and post them here. In the moment I have to do a lot of work and sailing to be quicker.

Grrreetings from the North Sea Coast, Michel

 

30ft Plywood sharpie

This design comes in a 30ft version (normally 28ft)

Water ballast, single or twin daggerboard, ply or glass/foam amateur buildable,

up to 60 HP outboard for 23+ knots, internal Nav Station option.

Might give you a bit of food for thought.

 

I was thinking along these lines, but with it popping higher toward the stern.:

 

I know, I mis-used the word, but I was focusing on where it would be hinged, at the fore-part of the cabin.

 

This in New York State pro built Reuel Parker version of Egret is now for sale in Holland. Maybe close enough for you to have a look for inspiration, or to sail right away....??





Good Luck!
Angel

 

I've never seen an Egret with a bowsprit and a jib added to one of Munroe's original-style gaff rigs. I'd love to know what that does to the balance, handling and speed.

I've always figured that if I get the balance wrong on mine, a similar jib (or a small yawl-type mizzen) might be an easier fix than modifying my centerboard or rig....

 

See this pdf: ‘‘The Commodore’s sharpie Egret: Cat Ketch to Schooner’’

BTW, like Munroe's the Parker version does originaly not have a jib. So the one I pictured above is modified.

Parkers Egret version . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . alongside the WoodenBoat Munroe Egret for comparison.

-



-------------------------------------------------------

Here the Parker specs and drawings.

L.O.A: 27'10 3/4"
BEAM: 7'6"
DRAFT: 10"
SAIL AREA: --267 sq ft
WEIGHT: -- 2,500#

-------------------------------------------------------

And here the specs of the WoodenBoat Munroe Egret.

LOA -28' 2"
LWL - 22' 8"
Beam - 7' 2"
Draft - cb up 1' - cb down 3' 6"
Displ. - 4,058 lbs.
Sail Area - 229 sq. ft.

-------------------------------------------------------

Good Luck!
Angel

 

I've been to the schooner site before. If I remember right, their jib was a response to the fact that their rig was already a cat schooner rather than a cat-ketch, with the larger sail aft, and had excessive weather helm.

According to them, even Egrets rigged in accordance with Woodenboat's original sail plan have too much weather helm. Which may be true, but I haven't seen that claim verified elsewhere. I do remember that they also mentioned their Egret is built much heavier than WoodenBoat' plans; that fact may also be affecting their boat's balance in some fashion.

 

New York State --> Fort Pierce, Florida --> Holland --> What's next . . . . ? ?

Yeah I know, we probaly never know. Just saying the boat made many miles of her own bottom, maybe most of them as the ad says ‘‘little used’’. Boat comes with the trailer Michel.

Cheers!
Angel

 

I finally got around to installing the cabin cornerposts on the model. I put a pretty good radius on the outside corner, to soften the cabin lines a little. And after doing so, I think I can get away with a little more crown in the cabin top now, which will bring the sides down. Not much, because I want clear sitting room, but every little bit helps.

I was going to do a two-piece cornerpost construction: cut the inside pieces, install them with the sides and ends lapped onto them, and add an outer covering piece. But trying to fiddle around with it wasn't worth the bother. Instead, I just rabbeted the posts with with a utility knife, and notched the bottom ends so they would hang on the deck. Then I cut the sides and ends back at the corners, slid the posts into place and glued them. I'll get pictures up when I have a chance.

 

Troy,
Regarding your line ... "Yo're buildin' a boat outa wood? Howya gonna keep th' water out?"

A while ago I was thinking about building a 44' Carolina Schooner as an attraction for local museums.
I wanted to build out of traditional wood planking, but wondered if there was a pressure treatment that would keep the wood from absorbing water* and also resist rot. Looking around I found several possible treatments, but the project sank before I got very far into the research.
If of any interest to you, I'll dig back up the research contacts.
Looking fwd to seeing your pix.
Bill PKS.

* Traditional Boats had to " swell up" to seal the seams, and so became quite heavy. (Used Juniper [American White Cedar] to resist Wet Rot.)
I figured there are are lots of Joint Caulking compounds that would seal 'er up..
Even spoke with West, about gluing the treated ( more dimensionally stable) boards.