Small Part Stuck in Mold

Yeah, photos. If it didn't stick anywhere, or hardly anywhere, you don't have to repaint it. If it's still

you need a split mold. It's easy to do. All we ever had for applying air pressure was a small hole in the mold that you could push an air nozzle up against and give it a blast. You can do that after the fact, if you need it.
What resin are you using, polyester? What do you want to do, make one console or a bunch?

 

I vote for a photo or 2 as well. Makes it much easier to explain. Actually, I had to buy a carpet, and the lady was not with me. So I had to explain how the carpet looked. First I tried to just explain, then I realised I could send a photo with my super-duper phone. That helped. A lot.

 

I'll put some pictures on today...

Yes I'm using polyester resin...

This mold will make less than 20 consoles...I need two and I thought I would build a third and try to sell it...

Leaning towards split mold....

My goal is to build a fiberglass boat...still have alot to learn. I thought it would be smart to start with a little piece and see if I could even build something out of fiberglass...

I have built two plywood / fiberglass boats and they float but I would like to do a better job on the next and thought fiberglass would make a better finshed product.

Ok another question when I apply orange tooling gel with a brush to the plug (after wax and PVA) Do you continously keep coating until desired thinkness is acheived? or do you apply multiple coats?

On the last try when I tried to add a second coat 2 hours latter (dry to the touch) and the gel alligatored.

 

Multiple coats. When the gelcoat alligatored, the first layer has not cured properly:

-heat up the area and your materials
-mix in more catalyst
-mix better
-make sure no styrene gets trapped. (styrene is heavier than air)

 

Make sure you are mixing your catalyst through the gel properly, taking care to get into all the corners of your pot and scrape around the sides as well., saying that dont stir too vigourously otherwise you'll just stir air into the mix.

You may be getting pockets of uncatalysed gel on your plug surface.

Take care
Itchy

 

Here are a few pictures

 

Are any of the vertical surfaces parallel to each other? They should incline towards each other, 2 degrees is a bare minimum. I do not see any problem with your radiusses, other then perhaps the corners being a bit hard on the legs on a bumpy sea.

 

The front and back are parallel....(no taper)...I feel that is the problem.

One of the main questions is Split Mold or not? and I wanted to make sure that was required before started another mold...to throw into the mix can a rookie sucessfully build a split mold easily?

Some guys say build a new plug with taper...I just was tring not to do that...

I'm attempting to get more knowledge before another swing at mold building.

Thanks everyone for your thoughts

 

If you want to stick with the parallel sides, you will need a split mould. (split from left to right).

You will need to re-work every part, so keep that in mind. A split mould can be made by making a dam (some sheets, acrylic, aluminium, whatever) and filling all seams with modellling clay. Install some bulges or locating pins on the flanges. Wax, and make the first part. Do not demould.
Now remove the dam, wax, and make the second half.

Do not forget your air ejectors in both mould halves.

If ever possible, design for single moulds. But you have learnt that now...

 

Modify plug to have taper? Build new plug with taper?

 

http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/materials/about-clam-shell-mold-19365.html

After you get enough layers on the mold to avoid print through, you will probably need some ribs or sandwich type construction so those big flat areas on the mold will stay flat and not bow in which would give the finished console slightly concave flat surfaces. The same with making the finished console.

 

I may well upset a lot of people with my comments,I can live with that.The plug could fairly easily be modified to be successful.I have never,ever been a fan of quoting specific draft angles as minimum requirements.Three sixteenths of an inch per foot will work and when using epoxy tooling block and epoxy tooling,I have used one millimetre over a depth of 250 mm.I would also recommend an outward facing flange at the base of the plug as this will stop gel or resin migrating round the corner.It will also give a surface to help with wedging the mould off.A much better finish without any trace of a pinhole or blemish will be a great help.The plug as photographed is not badly painted by the standards of houses or owner maintained wooden boats.For moulding it has to be absolutely flawless.Please regard these remarks as constructive criticism of a bold first attempt that nearly succeeded.
In short,I would modify the plug to have some taper and work on a really good finish,at least as good as a good car paint job.

 

wet feet thank you....

 

I never took the trouble of enlarging the photos (surfing on a mobile phone...), but indeed Wet Feet is right. The surface of the plug could best be described as "first primer coat". Now on to applying (spray) putty, sanding, painting and polishing.

As I have probably said before, with painless tooling, there are no shortcuts.

 

Added taper to front of console plug...I will putty, sand, paint, and polish...Thanks I will give this another shot!