Wooden boat rewire

Discussion in 'Wooden Boat Building and Restoration' started by Cruisersinc., Nov 23, 2009.

  1. Cruisersinc.
    Joined: Nov 2009
    Posts: 3
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    Location: Coos Bay, OR

    Cruisersinc. New Member

    This is my first posting to this site. I am rewiring my 16' Cruisers Inc. runabout, 1962 vintage. My question is about grounding the Electrical system. Are the batteries the final ground or is something else used between the Batteries and ?

    Originally the boat had only one battery which was used for engine cranking and the minimal other stuff. Now I have an assortment of modern electronics and safety gear so I am adding a deep-cycle battery for the "house" and a starting battery for the engine starting only.

    I really need a simple diagram showing the wiring pattern from the engine to and thru the battery switch, and possibly an isolator to the batteries for recharging.

    I will stop with this and hope someone out there in cyber world can help.

    Thanks
     
  2. Landlubber
    Joined: Jun 2007
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    Location: Brisbane

    Landlubber Senior Member

    In trailer boats, the battery remains a closed circuit loop, everything is attached to it, never use the vessel as an active conductor. Two wire every circuit back to the positive and the negative terminals.
     
  3. Cruisersinc.
    Joined: Nov 2009
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    Location: Coos Bay, OR

    Cruisersinc. New Member

    Thank you, that was my major question.

    Now I need to find out the proper wiring of the recharge system from 40HP Merc outboard (7-9 amp output) to and thru the main switch to possibly an isolator to the two batteries.
     
  4. Landlubber
    Joined: Jun 2007
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    Location: Brisbane

    Landlubber Senior Member

    The output from the outboard will be either AC or DC, (if it has been akready rectified). Ask the local dealer.

    If it is still AC, then the local electrical store can supply you with a good, cheap converter (called a wheatstone bridge) that has two inputs and two outputs...in gores the AC out comes the DC. Just connect these two to the battery (ahech polarity of course with a multimeter)

    You do need to have a fuse on the battery output to protect the wiring system. Add up all the units that you will be using and put in a fuse (or circuit breaker) to suit. An isolation battery switch is always a good idea. Turn it off whenever the boat is not in use, things like depth sounders can corrode at their terminals if the power is left on (salt water in the terminals).
     
  5. missinginaction
    Joined: Aug 2007
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    Location: New York

    missinginaction Senior Member

    Cruisersinc,

    Rather than try to give you specific advise remotely I'd rather point you towards a resource that will help you to help yourself. Go to your local library or bookstore and request a copy of Nigel Calders outstanding book "Boat Owners Mechanical and Electrical Manual". In this text you will find everything that you will need to correctly wire your boat. The text is geared towards cruisers but everything you read you will be able to apply to your smaller boat as well. You will also understand what you are doing as the text is written in language that most boating enthusaists can pretty easily understand.

    Good Luck on your boat and be safe out there,

    MIA
     
  6. Landlubber
    Joined: Jun 2007
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    Location: Brisbane

    Landlubber Senior Member

    Perfect solution, and the BEST book you will ever buy.
     

  7. Cruisersinc.
    Joined: Nov 2009
    Posts: 3
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    Location: Coos Bay, OR

    Cruisersinc. New Member

    Thank You both, I'll be on the water soon. As soon as I get a top made to protect the electronics!!
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2009
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