Hello everyone, new guy here got a few questions

Discussion in 'Wooden Boat Building and Restoration' started by Seanmay1, Oct 26, 2009.

  1. lewisboats
    Joined: Oct 2002
    Posts: 2,329
    Likes: 129, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 1603
    Location: Iowa

    lewisboats Obsessed Member

    ClarkCraft is a bit spendy but the epoxy is a nice 1:1 and you can get small amounts rather than having to buy a gallon or more.
     
  2. helen07
    Joined: Sep 2009
    Posts: 38
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    Location: UK

    helen07 Junior Member

    i have unqualified design questions to ?

    What do those who know think of these dimensions for a displacement hull on a fishing trawler ?
    Length 15 metres
    Width 7.5 metres
    Draft 2.5 metres
    I'm assuming this will give for a very slow boat unless a very thirsty engine is used ?

    It is common belief among fishermen that lifting poles should always be placed a half length of the boat , i find this difficult to believe as the width of a boat is usually approx one third of it's overall length so why can't poles be placed wherever , if it can lift that weight on it's side rail without capsizing then why would lifting the same weight say on the stern for example cause any problems as it would have 3 times the counter balance . Your thoughts on this please .

    An earlier convo on here got me thinking about the so called rule beater fishing boats design and having brought myself up to date with the latest fishing rules i have been designing a hyperthetical fishing boat that is built to adhere to the rules while offering a level of safety and comfort only currently available from catamarans . Catamarans have no fish hold worth mentioning so are not appropriate .

    Emptying nets inside the stern rail should in my mind prolong the life expectancy of a trawler considerably as several tons slamming into the midsection of a hull inevitable takes it's toll on any boat regardless of it's build .

    I am without qualification and so i will be grateful for any criticism also , though it's very early days , my final drawings might one day end up at a shipyard as i have family still at sea .
     
  3. apex1

    apex1 Guest


  4. pungolee
    Joined: Jun 2004
    Posts: 103
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    Location: north carolina

    pungolee Senior Member

    Good Gravy! I thought we were beyond all this,I haven't been here in a while.
    Buy the best Epoxy there is, use stainless or bronze screws, use the best wood you can afford,the best primer and decent paint.
    I work at a place that gets tung oil by the drum.I like to use it but the only way it would work in the application you are suggesting is to build a closely(hint;skilled) jointed hull from air dried wood and then SOAK the thing in hot tung oil.
    It still would need the same process a year later, that is if you didn't drown.
    Go to Norway and take the Viking Boat Class in Onslo.
     
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