Shrinkage of Lead

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by Sam III, Dec 2, 2008.

  1. mozart
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    mozart Junior Member

    pics

    Have a lot of pics but you would need to tell me how to send them, born in 1756, I am not that good with computers.
     
  2. Sam III
    Joined: Sep 2007
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    Sam III Junior Member

  3. Submarine Tom

    Submarine Tom Previous Member

    mozart,

    I hear 'ya. I was born 200 years before you, I can't make it happen either.


    SamIII,

    You're going to have to be a little more specific as there are 100's, perhaps

    thousands of photos there.

    Tom
     
  4. mark775

    mark775 Guest

    You're already going traditional, good, but another factor in why it is better is that lead absorbs some grounding or container shock and hard and fast things transmit it. Perhaps one of the guys that knows how much harder antimony/lead alloy is can tell me if we lose the "container cushion" of soft lead by the addition of too much antimony.
     
  5. apex1

    apex1 Guest

    About 3% Mark.
    And the lead does not get so hard that the main properties are lost. (but noticeable harder)
    For a "home made pour" you need to make a pre pour alloy. Use 28% antimon in 10% of the total amount of lead, let it cool down, cut according to the fractions of material you melt in one go.

    Regards
    Richard
     
  6. Sam III
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    Sam III Junior Member

  7. Fanie
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    Fanie Fanie

    Wow ! You went to a lot of troubles for a mould there. I was just thinking, if you make a former and use paper pulp to make a mould to pour in, won't it be cheaper and easier ? You can make the mould four parts and seal the paper with silicone on flanges.


    The mounting flange to the boat looks a bit narrow to me. If you are hit by a wave side on I can see you can run into troubles there.
     
  8. mozart
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    mozart Junior Member

    painting a lead keel? or other treatment

    My 6 foot long 2" wide 7" high lead keel came from the foundry.
    Looks great mut seface rough due to the glasswater treatment.
    What would be a good way to treat the surface before mounting/attaching the keel under the boat?
     
  9. Submarine Tom

    Submarine Tom Previous Member

    SamIII,

    Nice pics, thanks. Great job on the bulb, I hope it stays on!!!!

    Tom
     
  10. gonzo
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    gonzo Senior Member

    Use a planer. It is the easiest and fastest way to remove lead. You can also pound on it with a big hammer.
     
  11. mozart
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    mozart Junior Member

    painting lead keel

    Ok fine, do you meen an electric one?
    Why not put some putty or glass fibre on the surface to avoid hard job?
     
  12. gonzo
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    gonzo Senior Member

    If you have voids, fill them with epoxy. However, you can use an electric planer to take down the bumps, specially on the top. Hammering also works well
     
  13. Sam III
    Joined: Sep 2007
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    Sam III Junior Member

    Tom,

    It has stayed on with no problems. It has taken one serious grounding that lasted 6 hours in the mild waves and hit a rock with only minor damage to the leading edge of the glass shell on the keel. We have removed some keel bolts after the major grounding and there was no damage to the structure in the bottom of the boat or to the keel bolts themselves.

    With a 200 mm x 660 mm flange on the top of the keel the 12 x 12 mm keel bolts will keep it in place.

    Plus we used the designer's design and he has had several hundred's of his boats successfully built and sailed in the Mini Transat, 4200 miles offshore.

    Sam
     

  14. Submarine Tom

    Submarine Tom Previous Member

    Sam,

    Good to hear. Sleep well.

    Tom
     
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