Hull thickness of a 24 ft center console ply

If you use any Glass Mat make sure it is compatible with Epoxy (Binding agents are different for polyester and epoxy).

 

You seem to be going through a lot of trouble to make it more difficult then necessary.

For example, you have suggested a molded plywood ("3 layers of 1/4" ply") for something. Why? Unless you need severe bend, this doesn't make a lot of sense, especially when backed up with 2x6's on fairly close centers.

Molding is a good idea, but work "apples with apples". You seem determined to have a plank on frame structure, which is fine. If this is the case, you don't need molded plywood anywhere and your hull shape appears to be developable in the bottom, but will require "splitting" in the topsides. Another option for this hull shape in plywood is batten seam construction.

If you want a lighter boat, with much fewer parts to make, think monocoque and taped seam or molded construction will be the logical choices. Mixing the two building styles (plank on frame and monocoque) often causes problems with load paths and stress risers, so it's best to pick one and stick to it. Of course monocoque has been the choice for a few generations now..

Hands down, you'll find epoxy over wood is the choice. There are many reasons, but in literally in every regard we compare and measure resin systems, epoxy is better. The exception is price, but this is usually off set by ease of use, the need for less material and the other benefits it brings to the table. Most NA courses focus on polyester and vinylester resin systems, because this is what is used in most production applications (this is changing), but on wood, there isn't an argument, epoxy is that much better.

If you elect to mold the hull (veneers, plywood, etc.) then might I recommend you incorporate more "shape" into your hull. With a molded hull, you're not limited to developed surfaces and these rounded shapes will offer strength, which can be deducted from your framing structure. The benefits are a softer/drier ride, more shape for styling, splash control, etc. and stronger panel strength, through utilizing compound curvatures.

 

Here is an updated Lines plan, you'll notice there is a bit more flare,

 

Hull thickness

Just a suggestion, there are scantling rules for all forms of yacht construction. I would suggest that you get copy of Dave Gerr's book "Elements Boat Strength" This book and others spell out what is required for hull skin thickines and internal structure. Your instructors would be a good source of additional information.