My first post... and questions for those who know..

Hello i am Tim from Louisiana. I am deaf. Trying to build a go-devil type motor.

What pushed me to do this is simply I am tired of getting caught in crab traps, crawfish traps, trot lines, catfish lines.. bumping into stumps.. I mostly fish in the southwestern part of the state.

My plans are as follows.

I will buy a 7hp Robin motor.

I originally wanted to build a lightweight motor that I can carry, so I am not going to have extensive bracing. I saw Pistn's longtail motor and think this is what i need to do.

My questions are simple/.//

I was going to use a 1 inch steel tube and a 3/4" stainless shaft, with three bronze bushings and probably 72 inch length. I really am interested in your advice. I come on here to learn, not to teach..

so.. what you suggest?

God bless all

 

Hi Tim. How did you become deaf?

A go devil type motor sounds like the perfect thing for you in your situation.

I'm not sure but I think that a 3/4" shaft is a little much, 1/2" or 5/8" should be enough.

If you want the go devil to live a longer life, then you might want to consider some sort of thrust bearing, or your bronze bushings rigged to take thrust.

Well, at least you wont have to worry about the sound of the engine You could run with no muffler.

 

i have a simple go devil type motor sketched out on the weedeater threads its on the last page and its not my final plan some alteration are in need but it will give you a start. on mine i am planning to buy a 16 hp engine in hopes to power my 16' bass tracker. most of my fishing is done in the back waters of the big miss and i have encountered the same problems you are having

 

Deafness runs in the family. I cant hear but they tell me that the fish can hear the noise above water...so i try to be quiet.

Well as for the 3/4" shaft idea..someone told me the props are mostly 3/4" thread.

i dont weld so i got a friend helping out.

 

thanks i saw that drawing someone must have pasted it onto another forum. good idea. I want to keep it light and simple.

The mounting plate and supports and swivel.. i can figure out. The shaft and tube, the bearings and bushing..thats where I am seeking advice.

 

An air/water interface is a good acoustic insulator. A lot of bubbles in your prop-wash or choppy water can lower the impedance a little but it doesn't matter 'cause you're running . Try yelling at a fish in a tank and nothing happens. Tap on the glass and it bolts. Same thing while fishing - don't let the fish-box lid slam or the one you just put in there could be your last! Put a straight pipe on that dude and keep everyone else away ( or silence it and be polite ) but don't worry 'bout the fish. I just remembered a creek at the end of a McChord AFB runway - Jets didn't cause notice with the fish (I used to watch a sturgeon there for hours and there was no indicator that he heard anything but he would bolt when someone walked up, even out-of-sight.

 

If you look around on internet they have quite a few variations. Some of them are skimpy and awkward..others like Pistnstop have some very nice ideas..as well as the links some of you have posted.

I was looking at www.rickshaw-motors.com. I talked to the dude that owns it and he ONLY sells complete units. Look at it if you get a chance. Its only 1.5 hp but it is light. Its got a gear reduction and a clutch. $750..and it looks good but not enough for my boat. I would like to try to build a 7hp like the one at www.stump-jumper.com. Heck if I was rich I'd buy one.

Going to go with a 1/2" shaft probably. Should be starting on it soon.will post any pics I have.

 

Hey there Drzaius. I'm on the northshore and I've built a few of these. There is a guy up here that builds mud props also. If you buy a prop with a 3/4" taper bore, you need a 1" shaft. I think that you can buy a 3/4" shaft though and go with the 1/2" straight bore. Have someone call Glen at Hopkins. He'll tell you what you need. If you are serious, and can get up to Madisonville, I can help you out with whatever you need, free of charge.

Check out this page for your prop. It will give you an idea of costs for your prop.

http://www.hopkinspropeller.com/mudprops/

 

yeah i can go up to madisonville. I been out that way so many times. Shoot me a PM with your contact info and I will get back with you. I am going to go ahead and buy the 7hp Robin motor. Lightweight and great torque..as well as quiet.

I am trying to keep this thing LIGHT. I wont be doing no mudding with it.. just shallow water..so i dont need a heavy duty set up. If you look at www.stump-jumper.com you will see the idea i have in mind..very light.
wow those props are $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$.

 

Check out Utah mash moters. They are made with a 7hp Robin. The owner Mark Cheney..I think seems to be a realnice guys according to his posts on other mud moter forums. He may help you out.

Good luck!!

 

yes I saw that design by Mark Cheney. he is slightly cheaper that go-devil. I am sure his product is professional quality. The price... its not high, i just cant afford it. I am a self-supporting deaf pastor. I do electrical work to support my ministry. I am paid nothing..so I need to try and build my own.

I am going to ride out to Madisonville and visit the man who offered to help. I look forward to it..

yeahhaaa.. last Saturday I caught some BIG bream out in the Atchafalaya Basin. One nice sized sacalait..a gaspergou (caught him Monday),,,, many small bass. Just really a good experience I needed.looking forward to having a go-devil.

 

Pistnbroke here ...my shaft is 8mm stainless steel that 3/8 in the old system....my system thickens the shaft at the prop end to match the prop requirements ..lots of cheap right hand props on ebay and because you dont have the angled joint not so much support is required .so my design is lighter at abut 50 lb but I could have uses an aluminium tube which would have been lighter ..john O neil ( mud guro) is now saying tilt up to 25 deg is ok so the joint is not required BUT you need a left hand prop about 8 x4 pitch if no gearing 8x8 with 2:1 gearing

 

Wow that is a thin shaft...3/8"?? I never heard of anything that small. See the point you are making about "not needing much support"... that is the key to building something LIGHT. I dont want a 125lb go-devil.

I am glad you posted, you seem to know more than most of the guys around. Thanks!

I am going to see what the guy in Madisonville, the guy that posted above..see what we can work out.

Thabnks again

 

taper roller one end with oil seal ..ball bearing the other and a bronze bush in the centre...oil with auto transmission fluid ..read my post and print the diagram for your friend ...John o neil knows a lot ...look at frostys pics of the thai versions they all have chain drive but at 6:1 youwill need a thicker shaft for the torque......look at the shaft on a full size outboard that comes from the motor ..on a 90 hp its only 1/2 iinch

 

Hey Drzais, I'm looking forward to what you end up with. Please keep us posted..thanks!!!