Weed eater engine conversion

These are the 2 types that we build. The lower surface drive type is for a pirogue type boat and will require modification to ANY standard transom. Transom will need to be cut down (no universal). These are nice because it creates a lower profile and it is easier to hide while hunting. I will create some drawings for you if you like (can't find the old ones). But these are the 2 types that are favored by some of the guys I hunt with.

But as you can see from the forum here, we all build em different. It's all about preference.

 

Hey Stumble look on page 6 Ripped Off has some good plans on there. I would only change the moter mount but everything else looks good. Get you material and get started. We'll all be here for you if you have questions.
-goodluck

 

Hey guys can someone tell me why my weedeater stops spping when I put the prop in the water. The engine still revs buth the prop does not spin.

 

Your probably using the clutch that came with it, those are no good. It really depends on what type of weed eater your using ie. Ryobi, craftsman,stihl ect.

Its better to go with no clutch, this allows the most power delivered to the prop.

Oh yeah, what size prop are you using? It may be too big and making the clutch slip.

 

I'm using a Homelite 25cc and a 3 blade trolling motot prop

 

I'm using a Homelite 25cc and a 3 blade trolling motot prop

 

25cc? Thats your main problem, anything below about 30cc doesnt have much power, and the prop is too much for the engine.

If you want to keep the engine, just change to a 2 blade prop or get a smaller 3 balde.

 

Man that stinks..If you read this entire thread that must come up 40 times and everyone says you need more cc's

If your gonna spend time and money to build a moter take the time to read this whole thread, decide what you like from all the different versions and get to it.
All is not lost Vikash. You should get a scooter moter and figure out a way to mount it to your tube. If you used the tube from the original weed eater you may need to start all over but at least you have the bearings, shaft, grease fittings and prop ready to go.


TO ANYONE BUILDING ONE OF THESE, UNLESS YOU HAVE A WEEDEATER TO CONVERT THE SCOOTER ENGINE IS THE WAY TO GO!!!

 

Or.....

I've seen this happen more than once. You may have a clockwise rotating prop with a counter clockwise rotation engine. When you put the prop in the water, it pulls the shaft right out of the engine and doesn't spin. You can rev the motor all you want and the prop never spins. Honest, I have seen this.

As was mentioned earlier, 25cc is not enough power and the 3 bladed prop too big. You need at least a 31 cc motor from a good company and even then 31cc works sometimes and doesn't work sometimes.

Mark W

 

hey mudman i was wandering if you had any measurements for those drawings you posted

 

I can get some measurements. Each mudmotor design that I've seen is different. It really depends on transom height. It may be a while before I can post some working drawings, but when I get a chance, I will certainly draw some up for everyone.

 

Homebuilt mud motor for sale

I am selling one of my home built mini mud motors as I am replacing it with another mini mud motor. This is the 2nd motor I built and it works very well. It was built by purchasing the Duropower Brush Cutter (back when you could) and then modifying it into the mud motor it is today. I used the the unit as it came and added a custom made bronze bushing with grease seal inserts (John O'Neal design) at the bottom of the drive tube. Also modified were the throttle cable and assembly (to make it long enough for the tiller), I added an exhaust pipe to redirect the exhaust backwards and not at me, and I painted the cowling by first priming with a plastic primer and then painting it with camo paint. Motor mounts to the boat via an oar lock and this too is included. A Youngs prop (5 3/4") completes the unit. Unit has a clutch which is a very nice feature to have on motors of this size (my opinion).

This unit works very well. I used it last season only and the motor has maybe 10 hours on it. It pushes me and my Hoefgen at a gps measured speed of 6.2 mph. Fully loaded with all hunting gear, the motor was easily able to push me back upstream through some fairly quick water.

Price for complete unit is $250 + shipping or best offer. The Duropower unit alone was $229 after shipping, $20 for the prop and easily another $50 for the miscellaneous parts needed to complete the motor. Here is a pic of the first run of this motor. Pictures to be posted later or pm me and I'll forward some more.

Mark

 

i am new to this site and i have been looking into building a small mud motor for a 1 or 2 man bass buggy. i have read all the threads on weedeater conversion and i am wanting to go with abit larger engine 3.5 - 6.5hp and maybe sum day even larger for my 16' bass tracker or like boat. my question is do you think i need the brass bushing in the drive tube or could i get by with out them and put a lot of grease fittings down the tube?

 

I believe the brass bushing is to hold up the drive shaft. Grease isnt very supportive.

 

ok but im wanting the shaft to it snuggley in the tubeand not flop around inside but this way there would be a lot of friction on the entire shaft so i was thinking of going with two short pieces of tube and have the majority of the shaft exposed