Converting a dry exhaust to wet.

Discussion in 'Inboards' started by nikosts, May 21, 2009.

  1. apex1

    apex1 Guest

    Nice if there was any knowledge you could bring in here, but you are running novices into your idiotic theories.

    There are simple and proven solutions, mentioned above. period
     
  2. nikosts
    Joined: May 2009
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    Location: Greece

    nikosts Junior Member

    To start, thank you all for your replies. You really help.

    Now, Richard, don't worry I'm not going to install a nuclear or hydrogen or gas engine on my forty years old boat! The engine is really air cooled. The water pump was used to wash the deck and haven't worked for years.

    I'll try to draw a simple plan of what I have in mind and post it maybe tomorrow. I will also write some links of things I consider necessary.

    Cheers, Nikos.
     
  3. apex1

    apex1 Guest

    Welcome mate,
    so, you have the originally "Lister" without a jacket?
    But as you know, you MUst bring the pump up to work for feeding the elbow!?
    Yes you know.
    Have you seen the Vetus drawings?

    Regards
    Richard
     
  4. nikosts
    Joined: May 2009
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    nikosts Junior Member

    What do you mean by "jacket"?
    Yes I 've seen the vetus drawings, which are very helpful!
    I 'll try to make my own drawings and post them.
    Thanks...
     
  5. apex1

    apex1 Guest

    Jacket is a surrounding cast (cyl.s, manifolds) made to cool the engine by water, either fresh or raw.

    Jacket water is named the internal water (and antifreeze and thelike) running through the heat exchanger, raw water on the outer side. You do´nt have.

    >>>> I 've seen the vetus drawings, which are very helpful!<<<<<<<<
    Yes, I know what I am pointing to, thanks.
    Post your ideas, welcome!

    Regards
    Richard
     
  6. nikosts
    Joined: May 2009
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    nikosts Junior Member

    So...
    I made a drawing showing the main elements.

    The van at the right of the engine will be used to reduce the amount of water going to the muffler, as it will be more than enough probably.
    What do you think as you see it?

    Total cost 175 euros, without the exhaust elbow. Any idea about that?


    Thanks, Nikos.
     

    Attached Files:

  7. apex1

    apex1 Guest

    Hi Nikos,
    the exh. elbow, I think, you can make yourself. If you do´nt want the water as a deck wash source just let it run through. Save the valve. If you fear it is much too much water, then do as your sketch shows, but I would not make a second through hull, just let it come out after the exh. elbow (in the downstream of the elbow). It is another sound dampening factor there.
    Which sort of mixing elbow have you found?

    Regards
    Richard
     
  8. nikosts
    Joined: May 2009
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    nikosts Junior Member

    I was thinking of get ridding of the excess water by pouring it in the exhaust hose just before it exits the hull.
    About the elbow I may use something like the filter at the photo, without the strainer though, just the Y shape pipe. Then the pipe will continue for some inches so the exhaust gases are cooled before entering the plastic hose. The other option is the other photo, sure better but also 100 euros more...
    By the way I add a second attempt of a "plan"...
    Regards, Nikos.
     

    Attached Files:

  9. apex1

    apex1 Guest

    That is exactly what I meant!

    And that (see picture), would be a easy and cheap elbow! You could connect the hose directly! But take care, only in this (horizontal position!)
    If you use something like your old muffler (emptied) it might be done for some pennies.

    Regards
    Richard
     

    Attached Files:

  10. mydauphin
    Joined: Apr 2007
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    Location: Florida

    mydauphin Senior Member

    Why only in horizontal position?
     
  11. apex1

    apex1 Guest

    In horizontal pos. the water is trapped longer to cool the outlet side sufficiently. In vertical, the gasflow maybe still too hot to install the hose directly at the outlet end. But any angle between 0 and 45° may work as well.

    Regards
    Richard
     
  12. CDK
    Joined: Aug 2007
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    CDK retired engineer

    Excellent advice Apex1.
    If the installation dictates a vertical exhaust, the outgoing pipe must not be inline, but tangentially connected. The exhausts I made from stainless steel also have the water inlet tangentially, so the whole circumference stays wet.
     
  13. apex1

    apex1 Guest

    Well, thats the "perfect world" ! But I was thinking about a cheap trick (no money) to achieve the task. And from Nikos´s drawings I do´nt see any need to be straight vertical.
    One point to complain: as mentioned above, I would not use SS for exhaust, mild steel corrodes in a predictable manner and fails more even. You will notice long time before, that it is time to renew the part. SS fails suddenly and complete! That may be the difference between water pumped through and water pumped into your boat!
    Regards
    Richard
     
  14. mydauphin
    Joined: Apr 2007
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    Location: Florida

    mydauphin Senior Member

    I have exhaust underwater, thinking of replacing with stainless. But know I am thinking PVC.... as per Frosty... ha ha .... Interesting SS failure you mention apex. My muffler are vertical and thought that was good idea to prevent water back flow. But may be 45 angle might be better... Got to check details and will let you know for advice.
     

  15. apex1

    apex1 Guest

    As always, you´re welcome.
    Please do´nt mixup your installation with the simple one Nikos is asking for! Back flow should be prevented by elbows at the through hull. Nikos might not need them though! His through hull is far above waterline and according to his drawings he will go upwards with the exh. (as it was), before he goes down to the mixing device. If you do as CDK mentioned, there is no prob. doing it vertical anyway.
    Or do it this way (is valid mainly for Nikos).

    Regards
    Richard
     

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