epoxy primer

Discussion in 'Boatbuilding' started by portpennscrabs, Feb 23, 2004.

  1. portpennscrabs
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: port penn de.

    portpennscrabs New Member

    im building cabin on my crab boat epoxy and glass over ac fir using a water reduce epoxy primer thinned with water and alcohol. having trouble with pin holes on the roof the rest of the paint job seems to be working well.i keep recoating roof pin holes filling in slowy. any one know how to help with this one? tried thinning more and less
     
  2. kevinr100
    Joined: Dec 2008
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    Location: Qld. Australia

    kevinr100 New Member

    Personally, I would use q cells and blade it in to fill the holes. After sanding, then I would prime coat.
     
  3. Bentwood
    Joined: Mar 2006
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    Location: Durham, NC

    Bentwood Bentwood

    if you are working with sys 3 two part epoxy primer (and it sounds like you are), you could call the tech support at sys 3 and get an answer about thinning, etc... is it possible that the air temp is too cold now?
     
  4. JR-Shine
    Joined: May 2004
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    Location: Vero Beach, FL

    JR-Shine SHINE

    We use/sell a lot of the System Three epoxy primer (used some today in fact), we normally roll it on and if i see pin holes I come back after the application and with the tip of a foam brush, I put a "blob" of primer over the pin hole to fill it in.

    We do not thin the primer much if at all, and we use only water.

    Sand it with in a couple days of application even if you do not plan to paint for a while longer, the primer gets much harder and more difficult to sand after 4 days
     
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  5. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Yep, sand the water based epoxy primer, regardless of your finishing schedule within a few days. Joel is very correct, it's a pain in the butt hard after a week and more difficult to sand.

    It's probably air bubbles that have popped, but could be other things too. More primer is the fix, after a quick knock down with sand paper to remove the roller stipple or brush strokes. Technically you don't need to sand, if applying more within 72 hours, but I just don't trust this and prefer to lop off the high spots with each succeeding coat, which makes smoothing faster, as many of the low spots are already filled.

    I'll also ditto Joel's remakes about not thinning much and only with water. The only times I've needed to thin the System Three primer is when it's been un-Godly hot outside and I was trying to control working time, not viscosity.
     
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