1973 135hp V4 evinrude starflite shift rod?

Discussion in 'Outboards' started by 72baja, Jul 28, 2008.

  1. 72baja
    Joined: Jul 2008
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    Location: cleveland

    72baja New Member

    Hey, I'm replacing the impeller on a evinrude 1973 135hp V4 and am having trouble locating the shift rod retainer screw. The book I have only has a weak drawing and am having trouble locating the general location of the screw. There is no access door on the lower unit that I can see and looked at it in well lit shop for a few hours now. Did locate and remove the trim tab and inner screws and have the 4 lower unit to exhaust housing screws loose and ready to remove. I also drained the gear oil. Where the heck is that retainer screw. Thanks
     
  2. powerabout
    Joined: Nov 2007
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    Location: Melbourne/Singapore/Italy

    powerabout Senior Member

    The shift rod is released un the carbs.
    You remove the shift cable and then loosen the large hex head (3/4 ish) that runs aft into the block/reed box
    This is a stepped bolt holding the 2 levers.
    Once you loosen the bolt so the lever closest to the crankcase can slip off the bolt shoulder and onto the threaded area you will have enough slack to move the 2 levers apart at the inner end.
    One lever has a pin that locates into the others hole whilst grabbing the top of the shift rod.

    Make sure when you re assemble the fitting on the shift rod ( which is threaded onto it) is adjusted to the correct height and the plastic bush is also on it.

    The old 135, they really went but if you are in the US you will need to use really good fuel as those engines had very high compression ratio
     
  3. 72baja
    Joined: Jul 2008
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    Location: cleveland

    72baja New Member

    1973 135hp evinrude V4 starflite shift rod

    Thanks for the shift rod removal advice. I suspected that the connection was under the carbs but thought it was too far from the lower unit. That sure is a trick that is hard to figure out by yourself. The lower unit has been removed and am figuring out what parts to order from iboats. Looks like all the rubber is trashed but housing ok and will get siera complete impeller and lower unit sealing kit. The oil was not milked and had almost no metal shavings and no large fragments but there was a small amount of water. Did notice a small nylon bushing on the top on the shift rod to seasaw connector that is worn but did not see that part on part lists I have checked. The old one is useable but would rather replace while i'm in there. Could also use a new prop and some more advice there. Think it has the original prop but is damaged, a few chips and one blade cracked in about half. Could it be repared or don't bother. Not sure what pitch I need for the 135 on a 16' 72 baja cobra for general use. Thanks for all the help, would probably still be stuck without it.
     
  4. powerabout
    Joined: Nov 2007
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    Location: Melbourne/Singapore/Italy

    powerabout Senior Member

    To install the lower unit more easily cut one of the water tube guides 1/2" shorter than the other.
    You mentioned a seal kit....
    make sure the exhaust adapter has new seals on the top and bottom and the seal on the water pump housing around the drive shaft and the 2 water tube guides.
    A 16 foot boat should be doing over 50mph so a 21"prop would be a start.
     

  5. adwjr
    Joined: Nov 2008
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    Location: Halifax, MA

    adwjr Junior Member

    You want to sell the starflight? Got a GT150 1972 Orange just like live and let die boat but missing the perfect engine LOL
     
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