Buck Marine Diesel

Discussion in 'Diesel Engines' started by timbillyosu, Aug 12, 2008.

  1. timbillyosu
    Joined: Aug 2008
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    Location: Winterville, NC

    timbillyosu Junior Member

    umm... easy there chief... We live in America. That's what we use.
     
  2. ed fitz
    Joined: Nov 2005
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    Location: newport n.c.

    ed fitz Junior Member

    Buck engine

    When are you planing on selling the engine and do you have any prices 300h.p.?
     
  3. timbillyosu
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    Location: Winterville, NC

    timbillyosu Junior Member

    The engines won't be in full production for another year and a half or so. The 3-cylinder will be priced around $25,000.
     
  4. timbillyosu
    Joined: Aug 2008
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    Location: Winterville, NC

    timbillyosu Junior Member

    Just letting everyone know, we have the engine up and running again. Power numbers will be coming soon... having a few issues with dyno calibration, but we will hopefully have those sorted out this week.
     
  5. timbillyosu
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    Location: Winterville, NC

    timbillyosu Junior Member

    We have some preliminary power numbers.

    So far, we have only gotten about 160 Hp at 9 gal/hr fuel burn. My boss's boat has 2 Cat diesels, when he is burning 35 gal/hr, he gets about 565 Hp. So let's assume it's a linear trend, at 36 gal/hr (4x our current fuel burn), we will be getting about 640 Hp! We are working to adjust our BSFC. These numbers were made with a BSFC around 0.45. We are still extremely happy with these numbers and as soon as we get more, I will be sure to let everyone know.
     
  6. FAST FRED
    Joined: Oct 2002
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    Location: Conn in summers , Ortona FL in winter , with big d

    FAST FRED Senior Member

    "160 Hp at 9 gal/hr fuel burn"

    Your just at the state of a Detroit 2 stroke , no turbo, 2 valve head.

    In other words about 1936 in terms of power per gallon of fuel burned.

    Hopefully it will get closer to 25+ hp per gallon , over a very large area of your fuel map.BEST Efficiency , only at full throttle is hard to use for most boaters.

    FF
     
  7. timbillyosu
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    Location: Winterville, NC

    timbillyosu Junior Member

    As I said, we still have a lot of tuning to do. These are just some "hey look, we're actually getting SOMETHING" numbers.
     
  8. FAST FRED
    Joined: Oct 2002
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    Location: Conn in summers , Ortona FL in winter , with big d

    FAST FRED Senior Member

    When you finish ,,PLEASE PLEASE publish the fuel map!

    For folks attempting to create an efficient cruising boat , the mfg nonsense of publishing a prop curve vs hp is totally useless.

    Most don't give a DAMN at how it works at full 100% load , and "Theory" prop curves give no help at most cruise requirements in knowing the fuel/ hp actually produced.

    IT is HELL attempting to get a real fuel map from almost all the engine builders and converters.

    FF
     
  9. timbillyosu
    Joined: Aug 2008
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    Location: Winterville, NC

    timbillyosu Junior Member

    Hey all, sorry it has been a little while since I've posted. I've got a new clip of our engine. Check it out:

    Cylinder Tear Down and Rebuild

    In this video, we take a running engine, shut it down and tear down a single cylinder to the bare crankshaft, rebuild it, and start the engine back up. All in less than 8 minutes!

    Don't believe me? Watch it :)

    Let me know if you have any questions.
     
  10. Stumble
    Joined: Oct 2008
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    Location: New Orleans

    Stumble Senior Member

    That video may be your best piece of marketing ever. To see a marine diesel rebuilt in under an hour (7:30*6=45 minutes) is not only impressive it is a game changer in terms of servicability. As I read your previos posts you could carry an entire engine rebuild kit (for 1 cylinder) at all times, which would seriously reduce the required dealer inventory of parts.

    The one thing I couldn't get a grasp on from your website was where the oil filter/drain plug is. I know it is a minor design issue, but with tight engine rooms the ability to easily access filters, pumps, and other common maintenance issues is critical. If you haven't already, the ability to swap these components from one side to the other (or order the engine in either configuration), as well as top mounted when required would be another game changer for a lot of applications.

    Also have you gotten any revised performance numbers since the last time? I am curious about the current fuel efficiency numbers look like.
     
  11. timbillyosu
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    timbillyosu Junior Member

    The filter will be mounted on the right side of the engine, just above the fuel pump.

    As for oil draining, the strainer is located in the front of the oil pan. It is easy to remove the strainer to clean it and drain the oil in the process.

    We're still having some dyno issues, so the efficiency numbers are still up in the air a little.
     
  12. Stumble
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    Location: New Orleans

    Stumble Senior Member

    Tim,

    The problem as I see it is that most engine rooms are incredibly difficult to work in, with little to no room given over to maintenance. Yes this is more of a builder problem than an engine manufacturer problem, but that being said... I worked on a sailboat where the engine space was so tight that in order to change the oil filter we had to remove the heat exchanger just to thread the old filter out and the new one in. Ever since then I have wondered how hard it would be to reroute the oil plumbing so that depending on the instaliation the location would be easier to get to.
     
  13. FAST FRED
    Joined: Oct 2002
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    Location: Conn in summers , Ortona FL in winter , with big d

    FAST FRED Senior Member

    Cant tell from the rebuild series , but are all the service items mounted on top?

    Air filter ,injection pump, oil filter , starter , alternator , oil fill and any heat exchangers?

    A starter in the bilge would NOT be an advance.

    FF
     
  14. timbillyosu
    Joined: Aug 2008
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    Location: Winterville, NC

    timbillyosu Junior Member


    With our design, we are about 10" narrower and 10" shorter in height than other diesels of this power range. We have tried to design every piece of this so it is easy to get to and work on without a lot of hassle. Have we eliminated every problem? No. Would we like to? Of course, unfortunately we are also trying to avoid more complexity than we feel is necessary.

    The air filter is the large black thing that is leaning down on the right side (as you look at it in the video) of the engine. The injection pump is mounted right on the back side of the right side of the front cover. The starter is below the intake manifold on the right side. It will be secured with 2 bolts that will NOT be interfering with the body of the starter (no more 1/4 turns with a wrench trying to remove the starter). The alternator will be mounted on the left side above the front cover. Oil is filled through the pan rails with a fill neck that will be able to be mounted on either side of the engine. The heat exchanger is a tube pack style that is mounted inside of the exhaust manifold. To remove it, all you need to do is remove the 2 elbows on either end of the manifold and slide it out. The fuel chiller is mounted to the top of the bellhousing, behind the #6 cylinder. The oil cooler is mounted on the left side, below the exhaust manifold.

    I will try to snap some pictures of all this later today and get them up here.
     
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  15. FAST FRED
    Joined: Oct 2002
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    Location: Conn in summers , Ortona FL in winter , with big d

    FAST FRED Senior Member

    Since this engine is pri$y and intended for the "big boys" is there a couple of PTO mounts for the usual hydraulic pump or engine driven bilge / fire pump?

    Standard on every Detroit Diesel, since 1936.



    FF
     
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