price of hull materials

Discussion in 'Materials' started by spiel_mit_feuer, Sep 25, 2008.

  1. spiel_mit_feuer
    Joined: Sep 2008
    Posts: 31
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: -14
    Location: New York, United States

    spiel_mit_feuer Junior Member

    i was wondering if someone could get me an estimate per square meter or so what the price of building a hull would be in various types of cored fiberglass, mild steel, aluminum allow, and cedar stripped plank?.. looking for average ballpark costs to estimate the cost to build a hull in various materials
     
  2. KnottyBuoyz
    Joined: Jul 2006
    Posts: 829
    Likes: 56, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 685
    Location: Iroquois, Ontario

    KnottyBuoyz Provocateur & Raconteur

    That's a loaded question. It'll vary wildly depending on where you are and what's available. Basically marine plywood is the most cost effective material (from my experience). Foam core will be double (minimum) of plywood. Steel will be near double or more and aluminum will be 3 to 4 times the cost of plywood (depends on how much you're willing to do yourself vs. contract out). Cedar strip will be pretty labour intensive but depending on the source of the materials might be close to plywood in cost. A lot depends on how much you do yourself (or can do yourself) and a lot depends on the size and quality of the design work that went into the boat. Fit and finish will also have a big effect on ultimate cost where a "workboat" finish vs. a "yacht finish" will drive up the cost exponentially. Basically the cost to build the hull is 10% to 15% of the total cost to build a completed boat. That being a given a few hundred bucks in materials really makes a small dent on the bottom line cost of the boat. I suggest you get a spreadsheet worked up with all your materials so that you can compare them as you shop. You'll find lots of tips on sources on here but you have to do your homework and do some searching.
     
  3. TeddyDiver
    Joined: Dec 2007
    Posts: 2,615
    Likes: 136, Points: 73, Legacy Rep: 1650
    Location: Finland/Norway

    TeddyDiver Gollywobbler

    Better to consider estimates for displacement to get a bit of accuracy. Getting more reliable calcs you'll have to choose a specific boat with scantlings for the materials you're comparing.
     
  4. spiel_mit_feuer
    Joined: Sep 2008
    Posts: 31
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: -14
    Location: New York, United States

    spiel_mit_feuer Junior Member

    well i can find the exact square footage of the hull i am looking to use by looking at the blueprints, but it doesnt tell me much for estimated costs to build the hull itself, as for the price of the rest of the boat i will be doing much the fab work myself on all interior components, and im looking to use bamboo planks for the deck, and interior flooring
     
  5. TeddyDiver
    Joined: Dec 2007
    Posts: 2,615
    Likes: 136, Points: 73, Legacy Rep: 1650
    Location: Finland/Norway

    TeddyDiver Gollywobbler

    Get Dave Gerr's book The Elements of Boat Strength. There you find scantlings for different materials and can calculate material thicknesses etc and so also the costs or pay someone to do it.. It's the only way to get an answer with more accuracy than KnottyBuoyz estimate
    BR Teddy
    ps Since I'm also building a boat just a word of the costs.
    They tend to rise all the time and eventually to a sum which is excactly as much as you have succeeded to put aside from living etc during the process. That's valid if you not happened be in somebodys will, or made a mortage...
     
  6. spiel_mit_feuer
    Joined: Sep 2008
    Posts: 31
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: -14
    Location: New York, United States

    spiel_mit_feuer Junior Member

    material price doesnt really seem to matter to me anyway, since im restricted to a steel hull (lots of north atlantic sailing, sometimes above the arctic circle) where i will be... umm, so yeah, steel, and for the hull design of my choice i was quoted $6k in all the steel neccessary to build the hull and deck, though i think im going to go with a wooden, or more likely bamboo plank deck and interior so... for $6k i should be able to get the hull, deck, and the interior walls and floors done, depending on how i design the 40' interior, and i still havent decided what sort of engine for auxilery power, or what sort of mast/sail plan ill use, but im thinking probably a single mast sloop or cutter, MAYBE something with a mizzen
     
  7. marshmat
    Joined: Apr 2005
    Posts: 4,127
    Likes: 149, Points: 63, Legacy Rep: 2043
    Location: Ontario

    marshmat Senior Member

    If you're thinking $6k for the hull, than by KB's rule of thumb you're talking $40-$60k for the boat? As a first guess it sounds reasonable for materials, if you do the work yourself and don't go overboard on incidental gear (skip the triple 19" flatscreen radar/chartplotter/GPS/fishfinder/DVD/microwave system).

    Get Gerr's book. It is awesome.

    Costs generally go pretty nicely (very close to linear) with displacement for boats of similar fitout and comparable build quality.

    What plans are you building from? Someone here might be familiar with the design or something similar. It would be nice to see more of what you have in mind.
     
  8. spiel_mit_feuer
    Joined: Sep 2008
    Posts: 31
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: -14
    Location: New York, United States

    spiel_mit_feuer Junior Member

    im white in live with the dixdesign ankon 40... its a 40' steel hull only as wide as an average 30' hull, so its long and narrow, which is perfect for north atlantic sailing where there could be ice, not only will the steel add strength, but the narrower shape should allow it to squeeze through some spots if i absolutely have to, plus steel boats already built with these plans have made 12 knots... and i wont be going too overboard on the interior, ill be fabricated it myself, including the seating structures, cabinatry, the wiring.. any advice as to what sort of sail plan i should use? something with a single, or a single with a mizzen would probably be the best, though im thinking more like a sloop or cutter... another plus on the design is it is a true round bilge design
     

  9. TeddyDiver
    Joined: Dec 2007
    Posts: 2,615
    Likes: 136, Points: 73, Legacy Rep: 1650
    Location: Finland/Norway

    TeddyDiver Gollywobbler

    Opening a can of worms here :D but if you making yourself the sailplan (asI) maybe two masted rig gives more adjustability afterwards if not totally happy with it. Sail area divided to smaller sails are easier to handle not needing as much expensive gear like winches..
     
Loading...
Forum posts represent the experience, opinion, and view of individual users. Boat Design Net does not necessarily endorse nor share the view of each individual post.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Your circumstances or experience may be different.