Is ther an easy way to remove stringers?

Rebuilding a 20ft Dusky and i am having a heck of a time removing the stringers. Is there an easy way to remove the stringers and wood in the grooves?

 

Nope . . .

 

thanks for the answer. I was hoping there might have been a easier way.

 

Yes, if you will take a sawzall and cut down the edge of one side of the glass, somewhere close to the bottom, usually on the outboard side, since the bottom is angling downward, this will usually relieve the glass from the side. Polyester resin has a tendancy to release from old wood. If the wood is bad, its in your favor. Then after that, take your foot, or a big sledge hammer and force over inboard. Usually the glass will break or at least score and then you can sheer it out by pulling on it, or just etching it with the saw again. Make sure your boat is properly supported so when you go back with new wood and glass, you will not end up with a belly in it.

 

Oyster, thanks for the advise. The wood is in rotten shape. But it still has been very slow going on removing glass and lumber. I will sure try your way as soon as the weather clears up. Thanks again!!

 

Works everytime. Takes around thirty minutes to remove most of it. Use a fine tooth bi-metal blade. The old stringer glass will break or at least crack, making it easier to finish the job. Use plenty of sharpe blades to mimimize the heat buildup.

If the wood is wet, use more of an angle on it, cutting it thinner, so it will not drag in the wood, binding and jamming the blade. Bend it over and do the same. I sometimes will leave a portion of the old glass edge, for a reference point, to rough in the new wood. If you are going to cut an angle on the new stuff, just estimate it, and use mill fibers and epoxy to set in place, initially the wood. Clean up the excess on the no glass side. Then I take a four inch angle grinder with a soft pad, and 40 grit and smoothe the rough old glass away. Then apply small fiilets next to the wooden stringers, for your glass to roll over. Allow the resin mix to skin but not cure, and then do your glass work.

When you are doing all of this, be carefull of walking the in the bottom of the hull. This makes it flex and distort. I will sometimes do this in sections of the running length of the plywood, to keep the bottom half way straight, working down the keel line, doing the keel section last, if this boat has a small section there, also.

If you have not gotten these all the way out, you may want to make templetes for your new pieces from the old ones, in place. This will make it easier for you. Use 1/4" luan for pattern material. If you cut the glass close enough, also, you can use these, but with less accuracy. Run a piece of stringe along the top edge to make sure you get a uniform height, for your decking, after you install them. Check across the boat, with a four foot level also, for a nice uniform level.

 

Oyster, thanks for the help! You sure have a good working knowledge of this. You must have spent a lot of time in a boatyard. Thanks again. I will let you know how it comes out. It might take me a while to get to it. But I will. Got some boat work to get done on the side. Been using the money from the side jobs to work on my boats. Thanks again.

 

I've had good luck with diamond blades. After using a sawzall for years it was an improvement. With an air grinder, first cut a groove in the fiberglass and then pop it off with a crowbar. After you may use a sawzall for the wood. It makes it easier.

 

TOOL & DIE GRINDER

I USE A RIGHT ANGLE TOOL AND DIE GRINDER WITH PANEL WHEELS IT ZIPS RIGHT THROUGH HEAVY MAT NAILS YOU NAME IT ASUMING THAT THE STRINGER IS INTACT , USE IT FOR A PATTERN AND REPLACE WITH NEW STRINGER BEFORE CUTTING OUT THE NEXT ONE.IF YOU CUT THEM ALL OUT
YOU WILL LOOSE HER SHAPE AND THEN YOU GOT REAL PROBLEMS