Replacing/Redesigning Cockpit Sole

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by AuxiliaryComms, Jul 6, 2008.

  1. AuxiliaryComms
    Joined: Jan 2008
    Posts: 65
    Likes: 1, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 16
    Location: Hayes, VA

    AuxiliaryComms Master work in progress

    Hey all,

    I've got a 1959 Glaspar Seafair. The previous owner had added foam and fuel tanks in the bilges and put in a new cockpit sole covering it all. Over the years he had it the foam gradually soaked up water that found its way into the bilges.

    I am looking, at a minimum, to take up the cabin sole, pull out the foam and the PVC pipe tanks, then replace everything, and put a new cabin sole in.

    On the other end of things I'm considering getting some foam blocks and sculpting a mold for a new cockpit sole with some seats and lockers built in.

    Problem is I have never done any of this and I don't know if I should or how to go about cutting everything loose and reattaching it.

    Any advice?
     
  2. alan white
    Joined: Mar 2007
    Posts: 3,730
    Likes: 123, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 1404
    Location: maine

    alan white Senior Member

    I guess I'd advise you not sculpt foam ro make shapes but use plywood, which holds screws well.
    In other words, what was fast and cheap for the manufacturer is not fast and cheap for you. Most changes in structure and layout are done by different methods than the original (except with wood boats). Like building the cockpit sole first and then adding parts to it.
    Unless you want to become a fiberglass mold maker and could use the practice, in which case it would be good experience.

    Alan
     
  3. TollyWally
    Joined: Mar 2005
    Posts: 774
    Likes: 26, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 423
    Location: Fox Island

    TollyWally Senior Member

    Cut out the floor, Replace stringers as need be with treated wood or preferably molded fiberglass stringers. Replace the floor with 1/2 or 3/4 plywood. AC is fine, Marine ply is a bit of overkill in my opinion but others will have thier own opinions. Fiberglass over the top of the sole with several layers of matte well applied. If you desire a smoother finish alternate layers of cloth but you are building up thickness not really providing strength.

    The most important thing is to provide ventilation from the sealed chamber you are creating. Water will get down there and it needs a way to get out. An access plate or two is not a bad idea either.

    Once you get the old floor out and the crud cleaned out of the bottom the boys will walk you through the rest. A sawzall and a grinder are helpful tools. It all sounds harder than it is. You can easily do it in a weekend or two. As for supplies, besides the obvious, I would estimate somewhere between a 6 pack and a 1/2 case.
     
  4. buckknekkid
    Joined: Oct 2005
    Posts: 345
    Likes: 4, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 37
    Location: north of pompano

    buckknekkid Senior Member

    try this
     

    Attached Files:


  5. Cleetus
    Joined: Aug 2006
    Posts: 27
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Baltimore, MD, USA

    Cleetus Junior Member

    similar issue...but not quite

    I have an old Sonar that needs a new cockpit sole. At the moment it is flattened and cracked. I assume this is because of a prior repair where the sole wasn't backed properly by bulkheads. Anyway, what I am wondering is how to figure out what the camber of the deck is...or is supposed to be. I want to replace the bulkheads under the sole so this doesn't happen again and I want there to be a bit of camber for runoff.

    Any ideas?
     
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