24' Fiberform - Rotten Stringers/Transom

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by Ehdrian, Apr 27, 2007.

  1. jimslade
    Joined: Aug 2005
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    Location: north Markham

    jimslade Senior Member

    I know where there is a 21 invader cuddy for sale. I know it is new and has never been sold. I don't know why. Its been in a boat dealer storage lot for years. Next time I'm by (usually once a month) I'll check it out. Dawson's Marine is the only people that I know that have any info on boats. They helped me find info on my wifes Oliver boat. And thats rare one. If you can phone them, its the best way. I don't know what the phone rates are but if they are high, I will call for you. They are in my area.
     
  2. tja
    Joined: Sep 2004
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    Location: canton oh

    tja Senior Member

    Tja

    I was wrong about J being the month of September. J is for October. You start with A for January and progress from there. Usually the month is after the production run number which in your case is 301 . I did see a boat today that i was working on had a letter after the year. Coast Guard rules require the month of production be in front of the year from what I have read. Sincerely, Tom.
     
  3. frastorno
    Joined: Jun 2007
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    Location: Panama Rep (Panama City)

    frastorno Junior Member

    Thx Tom. Jim, if it's not too much to ask, I'd really appreciate that.
    That '91 model (invader cuddy that I pasted below) is not exactly the same.. could that be because is 11 years younger?
     

    Attached Files:

  4. jimslade
    Joined: Aug 2005
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    Location: north Markham

    jimslade Senior Member

    Thats the same model as for sale up here.
     
  5. frastorno
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    Location: Panama Rep (Panama City)

    frastorno Junior Member

    I found the styrene to make the resin thinner for the wood, but they told me to use 1/4 of ounce each 1/4 of gallon of resin.. that's less then 1/100 like the catalyst.. are there different type of styrene? .. or he simply didn't know what he was talking about?
     
  6. jimslade
    Joined: Aug 2005
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    Location: north Markham

    jimslade Senior Member

    You can thin down 5 percent, no more. This should allow for a better penetration into the wood.
     
  7. frastorno
    Joined: Jun 2007
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    Location: Panama Rep (Panama City)

    frastorno Junior Member

    styrene in poly

    Am I supposet to add the catalyzer first and then the styrene or the opposite? Or that makes no difference and the only important thing is that I mix everithing very well?
     
  8. jimslade
    Joined: Aug 2005
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    Location: north Markham

    jimslade Senior Member

    styrene first, then 1 percent mek. this will allow a slower cure for penetration.
     
  9. Ehdrian
    Joined: Apr 2007
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    Location: Nanaimo, BC, Canada

    Ehdrian Junior Member

    Hello

    here are some more pictures on the project. This shows the structural grid and the deck/floor going in.

    There is also a picture of the engine mounts being assembled.
     

    Attached Files:

  10. jachristner
    Joined: Sep 2006
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    Location: Kokomo, IN

    jachristner Junior Member

    Looks like it's coming along nicely. I've been looking for answers to a lot of the same questions you've had so I'm happy to have found them here. I have a 16' 1969 Starcraft Polaris with rotted stringers, sole and transom I'm hoping to repair over the winter. Right now I'm still in the process of finding a work area that'll keep the snow off of me. :)

    I've had some advice about polyester resin and if I remember right, waxed was suggested to me. You mentioned the unwaxed still being tacky after fully curing. Does this mean the final layer needs to be waxed? I understand that a full cure between layers will require surface prep between them. If the layers are done with waxed and laid wet before the previous has cured, will it also cure as a single layer?
     
  11. Ehdrian
    Joined: Apr 2007
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    Location: Nanaimo, BC, Canada

    Ehdrian Junior Member

    As far as I know you don't need to use waxed resin if you at least allow a good 3 days of curing time in hot weather for the final surface.

    The wax rises to surface of the repair and creates a barrier that helps the resin cure completely. If you use waxed resin for your whole project, you will create serious problems if you do not scrub the wax off between coats. But doing things this way will also require grinding and/or sanding to create a mechanical bond. Mechanical bonds are weaker than chemical bonds.

    I didn't use a single oz of waxed resin throughout the whole project.

    Cheers!
     
  12. Ehdrian
    Joined: Apr 2007
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    Location: Nanaimo, BC, Canada

    Ehdrian Junior Member

    PS. I'm still working on he project, even though I haven't posted pics lately. I'm currently finishing the engine area, fixing some mechanical issues and glueing vinyl and foam to the hull.

    I have to transport her to another location, but after that it shouldn't be much longer before the launch.
     
  13. oops!
    Joined: Oct 2007
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    Location: kelowna bc

    oops! Junior Member

    HEY Ehdrian

    oops! here from kelowna
    congrats on the van island raiders winning the bcfc championships!
    on to the canadian bowl!
    hows the repair coming. im about to do my 68 sea ray. same stuff as your doing. whats your take in the repair? worth it?
    or before i start my re-fit should i just get a gun and shoot myself?
     

  14. Ehdrian
    Joined: Apr 2007
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    Location: Nanaimo, BC, Canada

    Ehdrian Junior Member

    Hi Everyone,

    I have received a few emails about the project over the last year and kept forgetting to post here!

    Life has been busy! I started a new software company which is going well, but it took me clear away from working on the boat project, however, The boat is nearly done.

    The galley and the head are almost in, the vbirth is complete, the hull liner and vinyl is finished, the floor and floor trim is almost done and the outdrives have new impellers and are all oiled-up.

    I'll try to remember to post some pictures :)

    I used
    1/2" foam and vinyl for the hull liner (Foam glued down and vinyl glued at top and bottom only)
    Fiber-floor for the floor
    Interlux primer for the engine area and bilge
    Spray foam for around the sliding glass door
    All sealent is either 3m5200 or sicaflex

    I plan on
    Using aluminum angles to build bench style seating/compartments in the cabin
    Building a removable dog house with livewells

    Need to finish
    Some fiberglassing in the engine area
    Tilt motor is shot
    Wiring


    I think the launch will be this summer.

    Her name will be "4Bits".
    Because:
    - That's how much everyone thought she was worth before all the work
    - She's for bits of fun, for bits of fish and for bits of exploring
    - 4 bits is the type of computer I first used when I was young

    Never give up! ;-)

    Cheers!
    Adrian

    PS I would never have gotten this far without all of your help and encouragement! The fiberglassing and grinding is nearly done. :)
     
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