1987 Bayliner Transom/Stringer Modification

are you sure of what your seeing?,,,because no matter what your using,,poly,,vinyle,,epoxy,,just the resin has absolutly NO use,,,no strength,,and no way of sticking to the sides,,,,i think what your seeing is just that your almost always going to have more resin on ya sides,,which "hide" the glass,,and the resin on the top of the stringers, get "worked" in better which shows ya weave.,,,,,but if you "watched" these ******,,,,,,i mean people, JUST put glass on the top,,,,then throw them videos and pics away,,,,they were of "tards" and probably 1 of those "dont do this" movies,,,,hehehe

 

Jim, I left out a little bit on my last post. They used glass cloth on the joints (from stringer to hull), 3 layers. But none on the top. They didn`t show this in the video, but had pics on the how to reading. Here`s what they show.


section.http://boatbuildercentral.com/howto/repair.php

 

well,,,their still idiots,,hehe ,,,,ya need cloth from hull,,up and over stringer,,to hull again.,,,if ya want to build it like bayliner did,,then go with those guys,,,,if ya want a boat thats still floating in 10 years,,,do it the right way,,,hehe
and i KNOW how ya feel bout doing this,,,,so just throw their tape away,,

 

and i forgot,,,how and what are ya making ya stringers with?,,,but it really dont matter,,,,,lose that bookmark,,hehe

 

All the major brands work very well and have surprisingly similar physical properties. I use a proprietary mixture. In NC you may want to consider using a product that has a slow or better yet a very slow hardener. In the warm summer months, you'll need the working time.

Only a few of the goo makers offer the extra slow stuff. There are some lower cost goo makers, but they also have limited offerings, though you do save money. If you can control the building conditions to some degree, then a low cost option is a good way to take it.

Amine blush free epoxy is nice, but you'll find most don't trust the concept. This means if you wait long enough for the epoxy to cure and want to apply additional coats or laminations, you're relying on a mechanical bond. In these cases you have to sand to provide "tooth" to the surface, which will remove the blush anyway, so why spend the money on amine free goo when you'll have to clean and abate the surface is spite of it's physical qualities.

The only time blush free goo is handy, is on multiple coatings intended to remain clear finished.

I'm not sure what you've been looking at, but as Jim points out, folks will do just about anything and call it good, just to get your check. Stringers and other structural elements have to be covered on top as well as tabbed into the hull shell.

 

Thanks Jim and par, enough said. I have asked the same to many, and got no straight answer. NOW I have, and I`m good with that. Jim, Par, don`t you guys give up on me just yet. You guys talk in laymans turms, that I can relate to. I am a tradesman, but I never had any experience with the fiberglass/epoxy trade. The short time I have I have gained a respect for your trade. Sorry , I gotta go Time for dinner. I`ll respond a little later. Thanks again for the reposnse!!!

 

as always,,,Your Welcome,,,and it gives us old farts something to do when its too hot to chase school kids out from in front of our house,,,hehe

 

Hey, I'm not an old fart, though I do pass gas with an increasingly alarming rate, at least according to the one that must be obeyed. Nothing wrong with my prostrate . . .

 

Jim, Par, I got a question for you guys. Fine tuning the prep work I wonder if I may be grinding away too much material, from what I`ve read the epoxy will not hold well if the surfraces are not totally clean and you have solid glass to attach to. Is this normal and can be built back up as you rebuild, or should I be concerned. It`s not like I`m seeing fiber and gelcoat or anything like that, but some of the spots where the wood under the poly is now only covered by a very thin layer of poly once I got through the paint. And in the bilge area it took quite a bit of getting rid of the black/brown dirt/scum. I haven`t gone too far yet so there is still time for some instruction.

Thanks, Kyle

 

my head aint on straight today,,,but i'll try to help,,,if i can understand what your saying,,,clean yes!!,, wipe with acetone after all cleaning and anything left over should be gotten by that,,and you can build everything up as you go,,,fer eva,,,but,,,i would want to make REAL SURE that everything is AT LEAST as thick as before,,,but would feel WAY better if it was thicker,,if your talking bout ya hull seems thin,,,then you can always lay down glass on ya hull first,,get it to a desired thickness, then go to your stringers.,,just keep thinking bout ya mom out on ya boat with ya about 80 miles from shore,,,(i hope ya love ya mom) and build it to where you feel safe with her there with ya.
o.k.,,ill check this again later when my head clears up and i'll see what i left out,,hehe

 

Clean and well abated (sanded) to a rough finish, will give you the best secondary bond. Yes, build up the laminate if you have to. It's easier and stronger if you do this all at once then with secondary bonds.

 

Hello all, new lurker here and totaly confused . Everyone complains about the stern being rotted and then "and probably the stringers are bad too". Well, if it is said in this post that stringers use wood as a form and the fiberglass is the strength, then rotten stringers would be a moot point? Obviously the transome is very important though.

Second, again, if the fiberglass in a stringer system is what gives the strength, then why grind it out? Why not just string over it with a few layers of epoxy? I know ripping everything up and doing it all a new is great, but, if not needed??

Hope I am not high jacking, just trying to add another option, with a few questions about them, to the thread.

 

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first is,,,,the "wood" gives it shape AND keeps the stringer "full",,,like ive used before,,,,,,,,take an empty soda can,,,,squeeze it,,,,,easy huh?,,,,,now take an empty can,,and fill it with sand,,or water,,or rocks,,or saw dust,,,,,now squeeze it,,,,,,its really hard aint it?......
second off,,,,,,,questions that your asking,,,,,are the questions you need to ask to learn,,,so never be sorry for asking,,,,,this site is built on "questions",,,
hehe

 

Thanks, I just want to make sure I ask them in the right place and also give everyone there light in the sun without being an overgrown oak tree hogging all the sun, as far as analogys go .

 

as long as your question is "close" to the thread question,,,,theres no problem,,,,,,if anyone gives ya crap bout it,,let me know
hehe