Solid fuel installation

Discussion in 'Materials' started by Westerly23, May 12, 2008.

  1. Westerly23
    Joined: Mar 2007
    Posts: 18
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    Location: Seattle

    Westerly23 Junior Member

    I’m installing a solid fuel stove I picked up recently. It looks almost new. It was made locally by the Ballard Sheet Metal Co.

    I’m doing an install similar to this.
    http://marinestove.com/installation_views.htm
    Scroll down to #15 (sorry couldn't get a picture to upload).

    I’m going to use stainless for the sides and tile ceramic tile for the base.

    My question is,
    What should I use for the insulation behind the stainless? I was thinking ½ cement board for the base, could I use ½ cement boards with a stainless face for the sides?

    I will be leaving a 1” air gap below the base and behind the sides.
     
  2. masalai
    Joined: Oct 2007
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    Location: cruising, Australia

    masalai masalai

    Check your insurance cover and other liability first?:D
     
  3. TollyWally
    Joined: Mar 2005
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    Location: Fox Island

    TollyWally Senior Member

    I just did a stove installation this winter. If you can get 6" or so of air between your stove and the sides of the recess it will make it much easier. I would suggest using wonderboard which is the cement board used as tile backer, probably what you had in mind when you mentioned it.

    If you hold the tin sheeting off the wonderboard a 1/2" or so with bolts as spacers you will be golden. I have one of those laser thermometer guns. It will really put your mind at ease after the install. It is also great for monitoring where the heat goes in the boat. You will find it handy for figuring out where to position fans etc. for even heat dispersion.

    Depending on your installation you might want to think about overhead heat protection. Again the laser gun will be handy. I used rock wool in the overhead and a double layer of tin spaced 1/2" apart. I also used a piece of stainless stack 1 size bigger than my primary chimney pipe to shield that. I drilled holes in it and used machine bolts to center it. The cheapest place I found for the stainless stack was at SeaMar at Fishermans Terminal. A warm boat is a happy boat on Puget Sound :)
     
  4. TeddyDiver
    Joined: Dec 2007
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    Location: Finland/Norway

    TeddyDiver Gollywobbler

    Basicly there are three ways against the heat transfer.
    1 adequate air space btw the stowe and roundings to get good ventilation
    2 thermal isolation (rockwool, ceramic plates)
    3 reflectors (like aluminium folie)
    For the best results use combination of all.
    I would make smth like this:in the stowe ceramic plates on the sides and bottom. From the stowe 50mm air space, alufolie, 20mm rockwooll and 10mm airspace.
     
  5. Westerly23
    Joined: Mar 2007
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    Location: Seattle

    Westerly23 Junior Member

    Thanks TollyWolly,

    My stove is bulkhead mounted. I was planning to leave a 1" air gap between the bulkhead and the wonderboard/stainless and mounting the stove to that. I'll plan on adding 1/2" of airspace between the wonderboard and stainless too. I'll look into the thermometer guns, great idea.

    I'll also think about the overhead. I wasn't too worried, but heat does rise. The rockwool and tin should be pretty easy to install.

    They're forcasting 85 degrees on Saturday, the guy's over at SecondWave were telling me it would be summer by the time I got this thing installed.......
     

  6. Fanie
    Joined: Oct 2007
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    Location: Colonial "Sick Africa"

    Fanie Fanie

    Hi Westerly,

    Stainless is a very poor conductor of heat, if you heat one end of a pice of stainless up red hot, it's cold just a short distance off.

    I would use a few thinnish sheets of stainless steel with gaps in between them. the gaps can be about 12mm, I'm sure the 3rd sheet may become luke-warm.
     
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