Ski Boat Stringer/Sole Replacement

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by rickr, Dec 18, 2007.

  1. grantn
    Joined: Dec 2007
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    Location: New Orleans

    grantn Junior Member

    here's the link for the rivets:

    http://www.fastenertechnology.net/products.html

    nice call on the pastry bag. i guess i'll place an order with the boss on her next trip to wally world! that has to be a MUCH cleaner way that what i had been doing. :rolleyes:

    i put the pvc in with mat and thickened epoxy so that it became part of the core before glassing. saved me from having to TRY to drill holes near the hull after putting the core in.
     
  2. rickr
    Joined: Dec 2007
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    Location: TN

    rickr Junior Member

    I found an outlet for rivets where I can just buy 100 and the price is a little better http://fairwayfasteners.com/display.asp?id=122&sra=4 BUT in the 1/4x1" size they are only available w/steel mandrel.

    Would an aluminum rivet with a steel mandrel be OK for fresh water only boat w/dark hullsides?
    Would the mandrel for this size rivet normally be 1/8", so I could use my standard rivit gun?
    THANKS!
     
  3. rickr
    Joined: Dec 2007
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    Location: TN

    rickr Junior Member

    Due to my lack of knowledge about rivets :eek: I ordered the wrong size. 1/4" rivets are LARGE and will NOT fit a standard rivet gun.

    Rivets for my Supra are 3/16 and will fit a standard rivet gun.

    I found this supplier on one of the other Forums I visit.
    http://www.mcmaster.com/

    GREAT PRICES, $6.77 FOR 100 3/16" X .95" RIVETS,w/FAST, CHEAP SHIPPING, GREAT WEB SIGHT!!!!!!!:D (I am not affiliated and hope I do not step on any sponsors toes)



    YEEHAAAA!!!, Done with the demolition (grinding fiberglass), almost time for rigging:p
     

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  4. rotfix
    Joined: Oct 2007
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    Location: austin

    rotfix Junior Member

    rickr

    how's the comp? its looking great...i'm a few weeks behind you on a supra saltare, 1987.

    do your exhaust pipes attach with clamps or do they screw into the transom? i'm re-designing mine a bit as they used to leak. curious as to what others looked like. did you seal them at all behind the transom? if so, what with?

    i grabbed your rivet link...how'd that turn out?

    have you found a source for good quality carpet?

    foam...did you cut holes in the deck or pour first and trim? i'm leaning toward trimming before laying the new deck.

    i'd like to see updated pics if you have any

    thanks,
    kevin
     
  5. tuantom
    Joined: Jan 2005
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    Location: Chicago

    tuantom Senior Member

    I had a similar project which I poured the foam in. I (eventually) had luck by cranking up the nose of the trailer as high as it would go, securing down the rear sections of plywood and pouring from the front - it filled the cavity nicely and only foamed past a little. The expansion amount listed on the can was pretty much right on - so figuring out how much to mix per batch wasn't too bad a conversion with a calculator. I repeated the process for one more smaller section with all my fuel and plumbing hoses, then I fit and secured the plywood all the way to the nose (the last 7 feet). I drilled a pour hole and a pressure relief hole (not sure if this was necessary) with a 2" hole saw and filled the remainder.
    The stuff is really messy - whatever you get on your skin will be with you for quite a while, and it makes a nice permanent addition to your clothes.
     
  6. rickr
    Joined: Dec 2007
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    Location: TN

    rickr Junior Member

    rotfix
    I glassed the last stringer in the TS6M yesterday. A few more floors and I am out of the bilge:p

    I am using epoxy resin, using 3/4" ply for the sole and adding some floors (perpendicular braces to the stringers) to add strength so I will not be adding foam.

    The Supra is going to be a utility boat for us. We also have a 22 Classic Donzi with a monster 502 (LOUD and FAST) so we are going for QUIET with the ski boat. I am adding mufflers under the sole along with the Supertrapps on the transom. I guess I will use 5200 for the Supertrapp attachment on the transom (screws). Leaking was an issue on this boat also but now there are lots of drain holes and 2 bilge pumps:idea:

    I decided to go with a 40oz carpet. Carpet in our area comes in 16,20,30 and 40oz. It will probably be slow to dry and hard to clean but it feels nice under your feet. I am using snaps instead of glue.

    Carpet is made in our area (Dalton,GA) so I picked mine up instead of having it shipped.
    http://www.inglescarpetinc.com/id67.html has the most colors in the lighter weight carpet in stock but only has the "Slate Gray" and "Charcoal" in the 40oz ($12.99 per yard). The "Charcoal" is too dark (HOT) for use in our area. Shipping might be expensive.

    I would highly recommend http://www.mcmaster.com/ for fasteners.

    Good Luck with your Saltare. Post some pics if you get a chance.
     
  7. rotfix
    Joined: Oct 2007
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    Location: austin

    rotfix Junior Member

    thanks rickr

    my boat was leaky for years, bilge pump always ran every 5 mins. once i had the deck off it wasn't obvious where the leak was so i took it to the ramp and dunked the trailer. i found the exhaust and transom leaking. the exhaust pipes need better sealant, you probably fixed that with the mufflers. seal the inside of the transom. the gel coat on my transom was very thin and weak, Fri afternoon boat I'm thinking. i could see daylight shining through in spots so i'm adding glass and sealing up the gel coat.

    sounds like you're not notching your stringers? me too, my old ones were in decent shape except for every cross notch.

    i think i'm going to add foam, not sure about drains yet. where are yours?

    40 oz grey carpet...perfect. i had navy blue before, too hot. not a good combination with my yellow lab either.

    i can't wait to take some pics of forward progress. i'm still sealing stringers.

    here's a before though:

    [​IMG]
     
  8. rickr
    Joined: Dec 2007
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    Location: TN

    rickr Junior Member

    rotfix
    I am not notching the stringers.
    Gray carpet helps hide the Doberman hair:D

    Pics of the drain holes.

    The guys @ http://www.skidim.com/ recommended 5200 for the Supertrapp flange. Also it looks to me like Supra used 5200 when boat was built.

    Could you see where your Saltare was leaking?
     

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  9. rotfix
    Joined: Oct 2007
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    Location: austin

    rotfix Junior Member

    it wasn't as obvious as i thought it would be. looking at the 2nd pic you posted it looks like your transom is much thicker than mine was. it also looks like you covered it all up pretty nicely with new cloth. that's my plan.

    was the gel coat chipped under the flange for the supertrap? mine was all messed up.

    skidim...i forgot to check with them on the sealant. doh

    thanks
     
  10. rickr
    Joined: Dec 2007
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    Location: TN

    rickr Junior Member

    rotfix
    The gelcoat around the exhaust flange on the TS6M was in good shape. The only cracks on my transom were around the swim platform braces.

    I just purchased this boat in the fall, it had a leak issue somewhere because there was silicone caulk everywhere. I do not use silicone for anything:(

    Leak was probably from a small hole in the forward part of the keel or from the trim plate screw holes.

    Skidim is an online retailer for skiboats and equipment. I contacted them about the exhaust pipe/flange caulk. They only sell 5200.

    Looked like the original 5200 was good on my boat so I plan on cleaning and scuffing the exhaust pipe and flange then sealing metal/metal AND metal/fiberglass with 5200. Because I am getting sooooo experienced with fiberglass I might glass in the pipe also.:p
     

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  11. rotfix
    Joined: Oct 2007
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    Location: austin

    rotfix Junior Member

    i've bought from skidim before, they rock. i've got a nice wish list of stuff going there right now...new fuel hose, vent hose, etc, etc

    another question...are you going to screw your seats into the deck? my passenger seats don't have to be but my capt's does of course. i'm hoping to remember to add some backing under the deck there.
     
  12. grantn
    Joined: Dec 2007
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    Location: New Orleans

    grantn Junior Member

    rick where you at on this thing???? post some updates!!!!!! :D
     
  13. rickr
    Joined: Dec 2007
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    Location: TN

    rickr Junior Member

    grantn
    I got off on another project (M3), it's done but now it's time for boating season here in TN.
    I guess I'll whittle on it over the summer and plan on finishing next winter.

    Thanks for checking up :)
     
  14. ratrace2
    Joined: Dec 2007
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    Location: NJ USA

    ratrace2 Senior Member

    Pre-coat all wood with epoxy

    rickr,
    wow, you do great work; the craftsmanship is really looking top notch. This boat is really going to come out good, best of luck.
    I was thinking that it would be a good idea, in the future, to heavly coat, (2)heavy coats, all wood components that you use near the hull--only because there is so much water laying there--with a couple coats of epoxy, or what ever resin you are using. Here is why: from most of the research that I have done about fiberglass, it tells me that anything less than VTRM/SCRIMP methods will leave pin-holes in fiberglass. This is true of hand-laid glass, especially.
    Basically, you have re-built the boat to excellent standards of craftsmanship but you still have the problem that lead to the "rot" in the first place, i.e. pin-holes in the glass that lets water through to the wood which never dries faster than it rots..........
     

  15. grantn
    Joined: Dec 2007
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    Location: New Orleans

    grantn Junior Member

    you make a really great point that i have been questioning for quite a while yet no one has given me a satisfactory answer so i just go with what i feel is the right thing to do (for peace of mind with a little added expense).

    as you said, thermoset plastics are porous by nature and will absorb some moisture. this includes epoxies and esters (even gel-coat). it's why we bottom paint boats that sit in the water. (in addition to prevent organism growth). it's why west sells a barrier coat additive.

    that being said, i feel that ALL areas of glass whether they will ever be seen or not, should be sealed. a good primer/sealer is all that is needed followed by a good coat of gel coat. this includes wood just coated with epoxy to prevent water absorbtion. while the epoxy (or resin in general) will slow down the absorbtion rate, it will not completely prevent it and as you said, there goes all your hard work down the drain. given, it will probably outlast you and i, but .....................

    my plans are areas that will be seen (inside hatches, bilge, etc.) will be primed and coated with tile clad. other compartments that won't be seen will be primed and gel coated. i'd rather know that any water that does happen to get into any areas that it's not wanted will not 'disappear' into the structure of the boat, only to show up years later as a weak area. in addition i will also be eliminating EVERY piece of wood on the boat with the exception of the stringers (no need to replace, just repair) so that any liquid IN the boat does not become a parasitic passenger OF the boat. :)
     
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