gop

Hi guys im about to glass over my 20 footer and im wondering if any of you could tell me the best way to do this as i dont have a lot of helpers can it be done in long strips from one end to the other

 

that is way of doing it yes. is it the best way for you? not enuf details. what kind of boat is it? can it be roled over for the glassing? etc,
howard

 

Take a small bit of advice PRACTICE on something you don't care about first. The next tip will save your butt when working on vertical, reverse curves or overhead surfaces. Spray a very light mist of 3M spray adhesive on the surface to be 'glassed over with mat or cloth. Just a light kiss on the surface will allow the cloth (if not a real heavy weight material) to stick long enough to get wet. It doesn't seem to effect the goo sticking to the two materials and is a great way to save lots of cussing and moaning chair time with warm beer. Trust me . . .

Withotu knowing the hull form you are going to cover, we'd be guessing at the 'glass layup schedule ("can it be done in long strips" thingie)

As a gereral rule you want to work with as large an area as you can handle. That is to wet out the cloth, get it positioned where you want it, work out the bubbles, remove the extra resin and chase down all the drips and stuff that happen when you got goo on your GLOVED hands (your eye, ear and/or nose will surly have to itch just as the first blob of goo squishes through your fingers, it just has to ) You will not know how large an area you can work untill you PRATICE (am I repeating myself)

If you're bent to do it and live with the results without the necessary effort (the pratice thingie) then start with a small area like 2' square. This may not seem like much, but when the goo starts flying 'cause, the pots smoking and nothing is where it's intended to be, you'll understand. Besides you'll be able to finish an area this size before you go crazy, 'cause your nose will still be itching and you'll be able to take off your gloves and have at it with a flathead screwdriver (which you'll need by then)

Good Luck,

 

Post a picture of what you have. We can tell you the best way to go. The advice you have received so far is as good as it gets, with out more information.
Steve Gray
Rain Forest Boats

 

sorry guys i gave you the wrong idea what i need to know is can i lay a strip 20 feet by 3ft 6 inches before it goes hard on me or will i need to get more helpers to do it
ken

 

It sounds like you're using the wet method (wetting out the glass before you put it on the surface to be covered). Sure you can do it, but why? Use the dry method, by laying out he piece on the surface to be covered. Use staples (they can be removed later) to hold it down if you need too. Then bring your goo to the work and wet it out in place on the hull with a brush, roller, squeegee or what ever is your preference. Handling a 20' long goo'd up piece of cloth doesn't sound like a fun day at all.

Log onto the West System web site and find out how to do this. I ain't hard, but does require some experience before you get results that you can live with. A 20' long section is a big piece of glass to do in one shot with limited experience and help. There's bunch of stuff that can go wrong and it's not fun having to remove the stuff wet or dry.

To accurately answer you question, I'll need the brand and type of goo you're going to use and the room temperature/humidly you will be putting this on the boat. Temperature really affects the way an adhesive cures, so does humidly. Coverage would be something like one gallon will wet out 40 sq. ft. of 8 -10 oz. cloth or 50 sq. ft. of 3/4 oz. mat or 30 sq. ft. of 1 1/2 oz mat or 35 sq. ft. of 24 oz roving. Working times vary as stated, but I don't think you'll get it done without help or a good bit of experience with the products you're using.

What are you trying to do? How much 'glassing experience do you have? Do you know anyone with 'glassing experience? If so, can you bribe them with beer (it's amazing how much can be had for a case of beer)?

 

I agree with Par. staples is the way to go. I like raptor epoxy staples. http://www.raptornails.com/english/firstframe.html
the staples that you do not have to remove after the epoxy hardens a da sander takes off the staple tops then you start the normal fastening proccess.
Howard

 

Interesting Captword

I had a good look at those composite nails.

trouble I would have is that our timbers are too hard (sg of .98)....so they would bend or bounce off according to the technical data, pretty good idea tho, considering if one had their "group 1" sg timbers...or softer.

The softest native timber I use is sg of .68 and it might work with this timber using group 1 nails...I may still experiment with some to see.

Thanks for the headsup!

Cheers!

 

In applications where you only want the nail to hold till the epoxy sets and there is no static pressure in the oppposite direction they work great. you dont have to remove them after the epoxy sets. If any part is still up a quick nick with a chisel and your clean. I like useing them when working with strip junniper. Especially in tthose hard to nail places, and where I am not certain on a thruhull placement. I like the staples the best though have stapled cloth to fir plywood and to marine grade ply. they hold the cloth in place till i can get to spreadin epoxy.
Howard