Diesel treatment

I've 2, 100 gallon tanks (presently each 1/2 full) The tanks are cross connected with no shutoff valves to allow isolation between tanks.
We go long periods between travel, so I guess you can say that at any one point, we have "old fuel" and likely will always have.ASIDE from a polishing system (just not in the present budget), what treatments should I be adding? We live in Louisiana, I imagine tank growth is something I need to worry about in addition to whatever other long term storage issues there are.
We do run the Genset off the same tanks & occasionally dump in 5-10 gallons of fresh diesel.
What should I be doing? Thanks

 

Biggest thing is to keep the tanks pressed up full. Full tanks wont grow algie, and you wont hae filter problems. As far as additive they are all about the same, so go with a name you trust.

K9

 

I concur Kay9, full tanks minimise risk/possibility of condensation (adding water to the mix) and without air, other things are also inhibited. carry a couple of spare fuel filter elements & drain the bottom bit of your fuel tanks (if accessible) to remove the water below the normal fuel pick-up, checking also to drain the bottom of fuel filter containers before a trip. (much the same procedure as recreational aircraft pilots are supposed to do.)

 

Thanks guys. I'm not sure I want 200 gals of diesel now. I have no source, other than 5 gal cans carried by skiff (deep in the swamp & moored).
I understand the 1/2 tanks will condensate. I'm reading about Pri-ocide & other "cides" to kill & prevent growth. It may be the way to go for the next year.
I'm not sure about drains on tank bottoms, I think not, but will check. I know there is a tubing coming from the bottom that links both tanks. Maybe I can add tees there.

 

Bio Bore is a good bug killer.

Something to "clean" the tank comes in 2 styles.

One wraps itself round the gunk and lets your engine feed filters get it .

Great with say a DD which may flow 40gph , while burning 5 or 10gph, if the primaries (10 micron) are EZ to change.

Second style cleaner drops the crap to the bottom of the tank , where it can be drained or pumped out.A flex tube and hand pump can sometimes be worked into the tank and works well.

BUY the style you need!

FF

 

Bio Bor works very well. Turns the slime into what looks like tea leaves so the filters will trap it. Buy a bunch of filters, you will need them. If you have no plans on moving the boat, it might be a good idea to burn as much of the current fuel as possible, then set up a "day tank" system that you can keep topped off with your 5 gal cans.

 

I may have used a similar product. Star Tron, an enzyme that binds & carries the bugs out to the filters, rather than kill & sink to bottom of tank. I bought a case of filters. I also purchased a Buda funnel. The plan is to pump the contents of each tank into a drum, filtering thru the funnel, then clean the funnel & insert into the fill tubes of the tanks & re filter as I put the fuel back in the tanks. Then catch the rest in my primary Racor, using a 20 micron element.
.
Here is a question.... Why does Racor offer various micron elements, down to 2, Then advise using a 2 at the final engine filter, when those filters are only available in 20s or 10s. I wish I could find a spin on 2 micron. SO.... I what? use a 20 Racor & a 20 spin on? A 2 Racor, then go back up to a 20 spin on? What sense does that make Wish I knew.

 

I would look and see what your engine manufacture recommends. I think 10 micron is what most recommend. Since it is easier to stop particulates and water rather than clean the fuel system I use a R 24S spin-on (2 micron) on my racor (first filter in the system) and a spin-on (10 micron) on the engine. The Racor is much easier for me to change should it become plugged, the 10 micron is there should something slip through during the filter change.

I think your plan for filtering is a good idea. While you are at it you might want to wash the tanks out with Acetone before the refilling to remove any crud that is sticking to the bottom. Since they are both half full, might want to consider adding valves while you have the system empty. Put all the cleaned fuel in one side, easier to keep topped up with your 5 gallon can and reduces the amount of air that can cause water to condense in the tank.

 

Thanks Ken J. ===="The Racor is much easier for me to change should it become plugged, the 10 micron is there should something slip through during the filter change."
.
Makes sense, I hacn't thought that out, even if "nothing gets by me".
I ordered the 2 shut off valves today. Later, i plan on installing a Gulf Coast filter & rig a polishing pump.
http://www.trawlersandtrawlering.com/howto/captnwil.html

 

Depending on the ease of getting to the filter set , some folks will use a 2 micron in the first filter , and leave the 10 on the engine to catch anything that slips by the 2.

The 2 leaves the fuel really clean , but buy them by the case when the boat just sees intermittant use.

Many times only draining and not replacement is needed.

FF

 

Some UK information. Always handy to read about the products available overseas.

http://www.channel-marine.co.uk/onl...d=250&osCsid=b46b0ced9f888a8954ed379eb27f3447

http://www.channel-marine.co.uk/onlineshop/product_info.php?products_id=249

http://www.silmid.com/biobor/biocide.htm

http://www.soltron.co.uk/

http://marinedirectory.ybw.com/reprints/results_related.jsp?id=29606

http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/lsm/dhmg/alex009.html

http://www.sunshinemaritime.co.uk/

http://www.fortron.co.uk/Fortronweb_files/page0007.htm

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