Under floor cable chase question

Discussion in 'Boatbuilding' started by Greavous, Jan 3, 2004.

  1. Greavous
    Joined: Jan 2004
    Posts: 12
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: New Braunfels, Texas

    Greavous Junior Member

    I'm new to this board because I have just purchased a 18' Bayhawk center console with rotted floors. I knew this going in by the way. I have everything floor wise removed and getting ready for the new Nida-Core floors by beefing up the areas where seats and console attach. I also plan to route all the wiring, cables and fuel line through a 4" PVC chase from console to stern and a smaller 2" to the bow area under the front deck.

    My question is...are there any tricks to getting a quality seal between the FRP floors and the PVC? I'll be filling the hull cavity with expanding foam and dont need any trapped water.

    Thanks
     
  2. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
    Posts: 19,126
    Likes: 498, Points: 93, Legacy Rep: 3967
    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Not much sticks to PVC well, in fact it is welded to join sections rather then the use of an adhesive. The PVC may have different properties then the lay-up of your boat and I'd be concerned about the differences. Such as the different temperature expansion and contraction rates, flexing and so forth. Marrying it to the 'glass could cause it to break out once the boat starts to work in a good chop.

    I'd think about bedding it instead of tabbing it in. Use 3M 5200 for a real good, but flexable bond or 4200 for one you can get out at some later point for maintenance or repair. It'd be a hell of a lot easier then gooping and tabbing the thing and a lot less messy, probably a bunch cheaper too . . .
     
  3. Greavous
    Joined: Jan 2004
    Posts: 12
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: New Braunfels, Texas

    Greavous Junior Member

    Good point about expansion/contraction. I've been noticing the recommendation of 3M 5200 as an outstanding product. I'll have to get some and give it a go.

    Thanks
     
  4. GordMay
    Joined: Nov 2003
    Posts: 19
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: 48N x 89W

    GordMay Junior Member

    Underfloor Wire Chase

    You'll want to ensure that the wire chase remains dry (and then, can be dried out when it gets 'wet' - as it will), as you don't want your wiring laying in standing water. This could be problematic in an underfloor system.
    Regards,
    Gord
     
  5. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Yet another good point! I had planned to extend the pipe above the deck a few inches rather than flush to the decks but some sort of boot maybe good aditional insurance.

    Keep the comments coming, I'm not proud!

    Thanks
     
  6. gonzo
    Joined: Aug 2002
    Posts: 16,817
    Likes: 1,726, Points: 123, Legacy Rep: 2031
    Location: Milwaukee, WI

    gonzo Senior Member

    The wire chase needs a drain from the lowest point into the bilge. A boot is not waterproof.
     

  7. Saltyredfisher
    Joined: Dec 2003
    Posts: 17
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Kingsland GA

    Saltyredfisher Junior Member

    If you have rear storage compartments you could use the Yamaha Rigging Tube Kit. Cut a hole put the fitting in and run your wire through the tube. Thread the tube into the fitting. Just add a little clear silicone to the tube and thread it in will help keep some water out. Filling the hull cavity with expanding foam. Be careful not to fill your rigging tube with foam as well. Makes for some rough work when you need to replace something.
     
Loading...
Forum posts represent the experience, opinion, and view of individual users. Boat Design Net does not necessarily endorse nor share the view of each individual post.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Your circumstances or experience may be different.