interested in fiber ski boat.

Take a close look at the hull of that Mastercraft X-1, watersportfreak. The hull has a shallow-V entry and warps to a nearly flat V at the transom. It is a tournament waterski boat hull, with the exception of the aft chines which are cut away to encourage a slightly higher running trim angle as is required for the "perfect" wake shape that boarders are after (ski boats run almost dead-level on plane).
How much of the X-1's appeal is due to the boat itself, and how much to the occupant of its lounging pads?
The Mooma boats, too, are a derivative of tournament ski boats. Virtually all such boats are characterized by a shallow-V entry, large planing surface, minimal transom deadrise, conventional shaft drive (or in the case of some of the board boats, shaft drive through a V-gearbox), and a smooth, low-drag underwater profile designed for high planing lift, extremely good directional stability (hence the fins on the keel), and a smooth, gently transitioning wake shape.
You can, of course, ski behind darn near anything that goes more than fifteen knots. Dedicated ski/wakeboard boats have evolved to the point where they all look and behave more or less the same, because this is the general form that produces the stability, wake and acceleration/speed that pro boarders and skiers tend to like.

 

The type of boat and how much power you need is very much dependant on the type of skiing you intend to do.
I learned to ski behind a 10' inflatable dinghy with a 10hp outboard (fabulous - no wake!). I learned to barefoot behind a 15' runabout with a 90hp outboard, which was marginally too slow for the task, and whilst it was ok to slalom behind, I was easily able to pull 10mph off its speed as I cut across the wake. If I'd ever tried hard enough, I suspect I could have rolled it over...

I've owned both inboard (19' with a 260hp mercruiser) and outboard (19' with a 200hp efi outboard) tournament level ski boats and I've driven any number in tournaments over the years as well as competed in slalom, trick and jump skiing. Even with this level of power, I can pull several mph off the boat speed - particularly when jumping.

The point of all this is really that you need to identify what you want to do with the boat before settling of a design, but assuming that you are likley to want to do a bit of slalom and some wakeboarding, I'd be looking for a boat of about 19' long, with a reasonably flat bottom. If you intend to use it in salt water, I'd personally steer away from inboards - outboards are far easier to look after in my experience, not to mention easier to launch and recover, beachable etc etc.
As far as power goes, it's true that to simply pull someone along you don't need a lot of power, but if you intend to do any serious skiing then I would suggest 150hp as an absolute minimum (I've competed in a tournament behind a 150hp o/b tournament boat and the driver was often unable to keep within the required time tolerances because skiers were pulling his speed back too much)

 

thank for alot advise Gilbert & Willallison ,

i'm not understand clearly in your last two reply Willallison( i'm not native english ) could you explane this point again.
Virtually all such boats are characterized by a shallow-V entry, large planing surface, minimal transom deadrise, conventional shaft drive (or in the case of some of the board boats, shaft drive through a V-gearbox), and a smooth, low-drag underwater profile designed for high planing lift, extremely good directional stability (hence the fins on the keel), and a smooth, gently transitioning wake shape.

I think first model i'll do is case study is develop it from Mastercraft X-1 hull is shallow-V entry to a flat V.
But i don't know how to do it real.Now i'm reading alot of cold-molded and foam core and fiber lay , but i don't know not much how to build this structure.

I have to plan it in 3D or i can plan it by scale model ?
it is hard to expand scale? if i'll mold scale model by clay or which way is easier to reproduce; duplicate it.?
and when i finished clay model how to make it to mold structure to lay foam core and fiber?

or it is possible if i'll find some boat plan from internet and adapt it first ?

 

i have one question,
your first own boat, is it work good?

 

Sorry watersportFreak - I'm not exactly sure what you are asking here....

In terms of my own boats, yes I've been very happy with them. All have performewd their designed tasks very well. Inboards tend to be more 'task specific' than outboards - by that I mean that they aren't as practical for doing things other than skiing.

Personally, I wouldn't attempt to build a ski boat from scratch - there are so many out there (ok, perhaps not in Thailand...) that you can almost certainly find one that fits your needs, for less than it would cost you to build it.
That said, I agree with marshmat's suggestion that you want a wide, flat boat. There are almost certainly designs available out there. It sounds like you don't really have the experience to develop the design yourself (no offense intended!), so if your are determined to build it yourself, I'd keep looking....

 

As was mentioned you can ski behind anything but you talked about bring 7-10 friends along and if thats the case you need lots of HP. Why settle for a little when you can have a lot for almost the same amount of money. I have a 20ft Allison GSE with a 225hp Mercury Racing outboard and can do just shy of 100mph with a 30 pitch prop and a24 pitch prop I can pull a 200lb slolom skiier out of the hole not bad but wish I had a 300 on the transon at times. If your building a boat you should build it so you never say i wish i had more power. Build it the way you need it to performe with the maxamum payload. thats why ski boats have the 300hp engines in them so even with 10 people on board they will pull a slolom skier out of the hole in a deep water start. Inboard direct drive is best. They are very expensive to buy new. You would be best to find an old flat bottom vee drive boat an use the power train from that style of hull. You can find them cheap like 3500 to $6000 the vee drive componits alone new will cost double that!!! Castle is a good make and very strong and common. You could use the fuel tank and engine from the doner guages also and what ever you can salvage!! When your done robbing the hull you could sell the bare hull for 1000 plus to recover some it also. I wouldnt go less than a 10deg transom but try to have a sharp entry like at least 18 because that way you could still slice the other wakes you come across with out much pounding. most are 24 I believe at the bow at least some of the mastercrafts are.

 

Yes !
I strong believe to build it by my own. + :idea:

last day i found tree of interesting boat.

Vixen 17
http://www.hartley-boats.com/vixen17.html

Flareline 18
http://www.hartley-boats.com/flare18.html

Flareline 20

http://www.hartley-boats.com/flare20.html
the hull like abit wakeboard boat style maybe it can make kinda nearly wake and the plan is modify to inboard and no cabin.




Flareline 20 is bigger and better and yes it harder to build
do you think this is good for beginner boat building ?