Project

Hello all first time post here
I have just bought a small yacht as a project to rebuild the type is hyundia 5.7 made by Kyung-il ind.co in korea.Apparently I am told it is based on a swedish design .Does anyone know any details about this type of yacht or where I can get some information about it.
Thank you all
Best Regards Peter
Borneo

 

Check the spelling, google won't let you search by that name, they want you to change it to Hyundai so you can see all the car sites. Do you have a picture?

 

Correction and Photos

View attachment 16431 Sorry about that the type of the boat is Hyundai 5.7 pictures are attached with this message.One of the main things I would like to know is how to rig the adjustable center board .I have some drwaings but they are very old and faded and do not show all the details.
Thanks for the help Peter

 

Judging by the interior picture, the centerboard is housed within a long shoal keel. When you say, "rig" referring to the board, I don't know whether you mean installation or usage.
The board would normally have an approx. 1/8" (3mm) 7 x 19 wire with a loop at the bottom for attachment to the board. There would usually be a winch at the top for raising the board (which would be weighted to a greater or lesser degree).
Ones I've owned had a "board up" position and a "board down" position, and since boards like that often are prone to getting stuck due to barnacles or weeds (when they raise and lower, they scrape some soft bottom paint off, losing their protection), it is important to know how many revolutions of the winch crank it takes to go from up to down, when you suddenly feel the wire go slack. Otherwise, it might not be all the way down. All the way down really should be the position for windward sailing according to you, and not the manufacturer, since it could very well be that the boat is faster and more weatherly with the board not quite all the way down.
Then you need to know when to stop lowering.
Generally, an easily raised board, when raised, makes the boat faster in light air when running. In stronger winds, the boat is likely to achieve hull speed with the board down.
Minor adjustments of angle, starting from raising the board from the furthest down position (either as designed or by your count of winch turns) will move the center of lateral resistence aft, which can ease the weather helm on some boats as they heel to stronger breezes when close-hauled.
getting a feel for this adjustability should become intuitive once you've sailed the boat in varying conditions for a while.

Alan

 

It looks a little like a Mirage 5.5, but I can't Google anything about a Hyundai sailboat. The keel could be just a swing keel, like a Catalina 22, hanging below the boat without a trunk. There will be a wire cable somewhere in the boat. Is it on a trailer, have you seen the boat from the bottom?

 

Thanks all from what I can make out with my limited knowledge of boats is that the Keel swings down or lays perpendicular along the hull .The keel and all hardware have been removed from the boat so I am trying to rebuild it from scratch ,bit like a mechano set with half the plans missing. There is a winch at the roof that operates the center board .This has a cable or rope that goes outside comes up under the mast. There is also a hole that a device goes in at the front of the keel box ,I am not sure what goes there and what is its purpose.
Thanks again Peter

 

You are in the same "boat" as I am, making a keel from scratch. Yours will swing and mine will drop straight down. Should be interesting, a good winter project. Read my posts and get some insight about the keel design. Yours will be different in dimensions.
Take some pictures of the underbody so we can see how the keel was attached. You are probably going to have to start from scratch.

 

The set-up looks the same as my old Chrysler. It had a swing keel that winched from the folding salon table base. There are repair stories on the internet for the Chrysler 27 swing keel and winch. I have attached a couple of photos from my old boat, but don't have the literature any longer. The first shows the full shape, the second is me grinding the rust off the keel, but if you look close you can see the swivel piece. I do remember having a lot of trouble getting the bolts to hold in the hull. Six bolts at the swing piece are the only thing holding it on --- 'heard lots of horror stories about this configuration.

 

Thks all I took some photos today of the keel and the boat .There are two pins at the top of the keel both have been sheared off , my idea is to drill a
hole in the top near the sheared bolt and attach a shackle through it , do you think this is a viable solution or am i better to driil out the holding bolt and retap it.
Thanks again Peter

 

Peter,
Your configuration is much different than the one I had. Mine swung from the bottom foremost point of the keel box. your idea seems to work, but consider a winch (like a trailer winch) instead of the pulley system. It will take up less room and be more "mate friendly" when you tell her to lower the keel.

 

This isn't that difficult a concept to understand, after you've gotten some familiarly with these set ups.

I'm not sure why you feel it's necessary to change things, but the bolts likely failed because it was poorly or not maintained. This is a common problem with centerboard pivot pins and related hardware. Replace the board, ands it's hardware (all of it) and you'll not have to re-engineer anything. Keep it in good order and it will stay in good shape.

Drill out the bolt (a pain in the butt, I know) and install a new one. Drilling above it may cause an unfair lead to the tackle, binding or both.

Your "keel" (centerboard) is fixed to the hull with that aft pivot pin and swings down, likely to near vertical when sailing close hauled. The hoisting lanyard (wire and tackle thingie) provides the leverage to haul the very probably heavy board back into the boat. It appears it was intended to have a gun tackle to decrease lowering effort and was taken back to a winch to raise.

If you wanted to change anything, I'd consider removing the gun tackle and bring the wire lanyard over a turning block and back to a bulkhead mounted winch on one side of the companionway. This would permit adjustments from the forward end of cockpit.

 

Dear all thanks for the replies:
As I am located in Brunei which is part of Borneo I have not found anyone that can remake the 250 kg cast keel .I might have to try and drill out the bolts or the other idea is to screw a 5mm stainless steel plate at the top of the keel and waist in the end to enable shackle to fit that wont foul the keel operation. Is the way the keel is rigged on my boat specific to it or are there other boats that I can use as a guide.
Also in the drawings of the winch setup there is a bolt at the opposite side to the keel attachment is this a locking mechanism for full down position. I do not have any drawings or hardware for this fixture.
Please see attached picture for comment.
Thanks all for you assistance so far
best regards Peter Wright

 

We really need Par to jump back in, But first don't use stainless on the iron keel. Electrolysis. Follow Pars instructions. Drill out the old bolts, and replace. I would like to help you more, but the swing keel I am familiar with is a much different set up.

 

I agree that the old bolts should be drilled out BUT this isn't easy. It should be done on a drill press, and high pressure and low speed will do the trick (high speed and light pressure will melt any drill bit).
It also helps to make a guide of a steel plate at least 1/4" thick with an accurate hole pre-drilled into it to clamp over the proposed hole. Iron is far softer than stainless, and drill bits like to wander.
Then a shackle can be used. I would make my own at the exact width required, with sides as thick as would fit without binding. I'd use a 300 series stainless, maybe a 303, 304, or a 316.
It would be a good idea to remove all the rust from the board and epoxy the surface (there are products for steel boats that are formulated for this).
I don't see a problem with iron attaching to stainless (what else can you use?). Oversize any holes in iron to make a somewhat "sloppy" fit.
"Maintainence" implies paying for the boat to be held in slings while dropping the board or a specialized trailer or a pit under the boat where it's stored (all expensive) and here is where owning a boat without a centerboard case cover is a real pain.
The fact is these mechanisms should be exercised regularly. They should be raised frequently and then dropped. Something many owners hate to have to do. The movement clears out beginning corrosion from pivots. What else could you do until the end of the season? Nothing!
I would make a removable cover on any swing keel case I owned (even make the keel removable from above if I could, but this usually would mean a redesign).
Bottom line is these are not fun to deal with. They work great when they aren't jammed or broken, and most manufacturers know this but don't like to spend money for things you won't be dealing with for a few years.
Making an inspection/maintainence and/or removal cover is a job for someone with good building skills, but nothing else will make owning a swing keel easier.

Alan