designing a fast rowboat

time, speed, distance

i'm also wondering what the final mumbers are. Also, are the figures in statute miles or knots? It is a rather large difference. In referance to seats, We are working on an idea to have our actual seats on a pivot on top of the thwarts that would allow 10 or 15 degrees of tilt fore and aft. For us, it is as much a matter of comfort as it is for added power. Last race, we were both sore for weeks from grinding our hip bones on the seats. Our seat pads had broken down from age and didn't provide the cushion we needed. Old bones don't take to that too kindly. Prospects are still good to have the new boat in rowable shape for Oct. 27th. Flotation compartments are almost ready to go in, floor boards on order and simplified for quick installation and gunnel details finalized. Might make it. We are calling this our "damn it!" boat. every one we race against has commented that if we ever get a good light boat we'll give them fits. Hopefully, when we show up with this boat a lot of our competition will be saying " Damn it!"

 

Well boys i have checked the chart and guess what i ballsed up time to eat humble pie! The Time for "Dauntless" round the island was definately 32 minutes, the locals have varying opinions of how far it is depending on the height of the tide and we were told 5 miles actually it is just under 4 statute miles 3.84 to be exact, big difference, that works out to 7.02 mph or 6.096 knots average, still a respectable speed for her type though. Next time i will check the chart first and not let the beer goggles get in the way!
Having got my consciense clear have you seen the Virus turbo skiff?
This has the interesting concept of a fixed sliding seat, instead the outriggers slide with the footrest. i note you have to row on the gunwales can you not have sliding oarlocks and stretchers?
Another site worth a look is that of the Fench designer Jean Marc Fage who designs a range of radical fast modern seagoing boats.

 

6.1 knots over that distance is still good going. I've seen the sliding outrigger setup before. Never rowed with one though. Cheers.
ETA: Just had a look at JMF's site. The boats are far too beamy IMO. I'd knock 6" off the buggers. Fine if you want something really stable for mugs though.

 

sliding riggers

no good for us. we are restricted to "traditional" set ups or we go into the development class which is wide open to anything in terms of boat and gear. Will look at that site you mentioned, always good to see some one elses ideas of what they think is good. last year, in moderatly bad conditions we trashed a narrow sliding seat double, commercially made, can't recall the make. it didn't do well in the chop, had trouble getting their oars clear of the water for the catch.

 

Hi all,
Thanks a lot for good tips and information.And for your topic you may go on this link www.dixdesign.com/ Or you mind sharing that on splashvision.com. I go there a lot and I am sure the guys over there would really getting good information about boat.

 

Nord, on your seats:

If you are planning to have your butt planted in the same position in relation to the plank on your keester, cut some holes in it!

This will go a LONG ways to making the row much more comfortable. Pads do a good job if you are not leaning forward, but you remove a fair amount of flesh as you rock toward the stern of the boat. Getting a pair of seats with hipbone holes in them will really make it comfy as well as add some "grip". You will slide less and will get more benefit out of your rocking seat if you have holes as it will have some bite on your body that isn't painful in the least. Unpadded seats are actually more comfortable when you are working.

Easy to make with a random orbit sander and a hole saw bit for a drill. I have done them in cedar and am working on a pair in 3/8 plywood currently.

E

 

seats

I understand your idea, and it sounds god. Can you post a picture to show the actual cut-outs? The rocking seats will come next year as we will just barely have the boat ready for the race on Oct. 27th. It will be rowable, but not in the least tuned to its maximum. We are pretty much decided on a name for it. We're going to do what looks like a commercial logo on both sides of the boat: THE NORDFIJORD salt cod CO. #1. done up in a Runic script. If nothing else, it will baffel the hell out of everyone trying to figure out what it means ( nothing, really )

 

ocean florida

Are you on the right thread? went to Dix Yacht design and found nothing about rowing boats. Further explanation would help us to understand you

 

Dix rowing shells:

http://www.dixdesign.com/sladerowing.htm

Crew boat seat:



Of considerable importance in the crew seat is not only the holes for the hips but also the tailbone cutout which reduces pain and stress on the tailbone/spine, and the slight prominence where your thighs will ride as this will allow athwartships support if you take waves broadside.

E

 

seats

Very helpful to see the photo, I can shape something like that in my shop quite easily,it just will take a bit of time. The whys behind the design are important. Right now my tailbone is still sore from our last race in August - not a good thing. I'll have to get to work ASAP on this. Thanks for your imput. Small things get critical at my age and in racing in general and any improvement is appreciated

 

Here are some more images, as the shape is pretty important:



This one is a Vespoli CF seat, Ive rowed in one of these, very comfy:



E

 

Jeff,

I wouldn't worry about foot restraints. They are critical for a smooth recovery when rowing with a sliding seat, but I don't believe they have any function in fixed seat rowing. Footstretchers, yes, as keeping the feet at their best angle will add power and reduce fatigue, but unless you go with sliding seats, restraining the feet serves no purpose, IMHO.

By the way, after finally seeing her while dunked, your boat's lines are great. Looks terrific even in the raw.

 

foot restraints

Clogs or other restraints probably aren't absolutely neccessary in terms of rowing ability but on at least three occasions I've been launched off the seat when we hit a particularly large wave and wound up on my back on the floor boards. Highly embarrassing if anyone is watching. We are considering a bar above the foot stretcher to catch our feet if we start to go over backwards. It used to happen when we first started rowing, and has become less frequent as we've gotten more experience.

how about some more pictures of your rowing boats? Almost all the boats we row against are designed and built by the rowers. some are commercially built, but are of interest too. I'd like to know what times other people have rowed in races. I'd be willing to post some times from races I've done. The speed a boat can be pushed to is not as important as the sustainable speed attainable in less than ideal conditions over a long haul. The latest issue of Wooden Boat has a big article on something called the "dory stroke" supposed to be very powerful, and demonstrated by a "powerful oarsman" in a slick Chamberlain dory. Problem is, to me, no mention of how fast he can get the boat to go and how it does in a race. I'm still wondering about the times posted for the English race posted a week or so ago. Cornish pilot gigs with 6 oarsmen don't do that even in short races over here. That includes a Cornish crew that comes over to compete. I'll get their times and post them in a couple of days. You can see some race results if you look up Hull lifesaving museum you can get race results going back a few years and see some pictures of the events. look for Blackburn Challange to see more on a 21 mile race.

 

You know, I read all the hype about that article. I just can't say its a more powerful stroke. It seems relatively choppy, and removes a few pieces of the stroke I would find necessary.

You shorten your overall reach.

The blade entry, while quiet and splash-free, tends to drive your oars to a less appropriate angle of attack for overall boat speed.

It seems best suited for open locks or thole pins.

Its a great article, and for those in the wood boat community its a great piece of traditional and historical rowing. As for a performance rowing stroke, I dont think it holds a tremendous amount of knowledge. Much of the angle of attack discussion is eliminated by going to scull style buttons and oarlocks. Keeping the angle of attack on the blade at your predermined level (6 degrees in most boats) reduces the blade wander and rotation.

I think you guys are well on your way with the hull you have, its just down to making the best "transmission" you can between the horsepower of the rowers and the water your pulling against.

E

 

dory stroke

I can't imagine being able to co-ordinate all the stuff necessary to do the dory stroke correctly. Maybe I'm just a klutz,but keeping that up for 6 nautical miles in a tough chop is beyond me We strive for total co-ordination between us on length of stroke and cadence as well as power. To maximize speed, we find that a "snap" at the end of the pull is worth 1/10 of a knot in overall speed. At some point all that matters to to keep pulling harder than anyone else. My current thought about seats is to fill a shalllow mold with plaster of paris, put a sheet of foam over it and plant my keister until the plaster sets. The resulting mold will become the basis to lay up some glass on to get a custom seat. Who knows, might work.