1973 Tri Hull center console rebuild

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by blakey1973, Jul 6, 2007.

  1. blakey1973
    Joined: Jul 2007
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    Location: wells,me

    blakey1973 Junior Member

    Hello

    I just bought this center console. I really like the hull design. I get allot of deck space in a small boat.
    This boat is a 1973 Cruisers Built in Wisconsin. I found that the hull was leaking , found the bow had been crashed and they filled with filler and did not adhere well. I also found the inner core of the hull was rotted out it is made of end grain balsa and it is bad from bow to transom.

    I would like to take out the bad balsa and replace it by building up the hull with glass.
    Like to know how thick would be enough?It is about a 1/4 thick now.
    Then building a stringer and eggcrate type support system to keep hull from flexing filling under the sole with foam to further support the hull.

    Do you think this is good idea or bad ? If it will work?
    Or do you think i should replace all the balsa core and re skin inside.

    Here is a pic of the boat fully dressed. [​IMG]

    Here is one with the balsa removed from right side of boat.
    [​IMG]

    I really would like to make this hull usable agian. Any help is appreciated.
     
  2. blakey1973
    Joined: Jul 2007
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    Location: wells,me

    blakey1973 Junior Member

    Please help. I just want to keep this boat not send to landfill.
     
  3. mike steiger
    Joined: Jun 2007
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    Location: new york

    mike steiger Junior Member

    When you say inner core of the hull are you talking about the running bottom of the hull or the deck's and gunnels? Any fiberglass baot can be repaired but be prepaired to put a lot of time and money into to doing so. Keep your questions coming and I will try to share what knowledge I have, if you can supply some photo's it would be easier for the board member's to help.
     
  4. mike steiger
    Joined: Jun 2007
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    Location: new york

    mike steiger Junior Member

    Sorry I missed the photo's, I have never worked on a cored running bottom. All the boats I have worked on have been solid glass running bottoms such as mako, grady, and steiger just to name a few. If the hull was constructed that way you might want to count your losses and look for an old 19 steiger,mako or something with a solid glass runnig bottom with a stringer system and then I could help you, maybee Par could help as he is a wealth of information on the subject but you got me on this one.
     
  5. blakey1973
    Joined: Jul 2007
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    Location: wells,me

    blakey1973 Junior Member

    Let me ask a question Mike. On a full fiberglass hull how thick is the the glass. I would like to make this just a fiberglass hull and eggcrated support system with poured in foam between the sole and the hull.

    The three questions are

    1 how thick does hull need to be.
    2 will my plan work
    3 can i get away with useing poly resien for the glass build up and epoxy for structure.
     
  6. mike steiger
    Joined: Jun 2007
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    Location: new york

    mike steiger Junior Member

    Hi,
    Hull thickness can vary but on my Steiger I drilled a hole for washdown 16 inches in from the transom and 12inches up from the keel and the cut out was about 11/16 inch thick, I would say anywhere fron 1/2 to5/8/ inch.As far as whether your plan will work I don't know, stringer placement is critical you want support but at the same time you do not want to create hard spots in the hull and without a referance point to start I could not begin to tell you where to put them. As far as resin stick with epoxy poly I would not even consider and the price of vinylester has gone up so much it does not pay, you would also have a hazardous shipping cost to go with that. Try www.aeromarineproducts.com or fiberglass coatings inc. both are great to deal with and their prices are in the range of vinylester resin. Good luck with your boat.
     
  7. blakey1973
    Joined: Jul 2007
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    Location: wells,me

    blakey1973 Junior Member

    Thank you Mike. I have the placement of the original stringers marked.
    I was going to put the stringers in the original spot with 1/4 inch foam under them . I want to put lateral supports in to stiffen hull simialiar to a wood boat.
     
  8. mydauphin
    Joined: Apr 2007
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    Location: Florida

    mydauphin Senior Member

    Really Fix Hull

    If you really want to fix this then.
    1. Sand, Grind or cut everything that is between you and the rotten core.
    This is easier than it sounds, I use a circular saw and mask
    2. Put boat upside down and let it dry - for as long as it takes, It leave for a month in the sun. Sometimes I pour acetone inside hull in some areas. The Acetone dries quickly and drys everything around it quickly. Obviously this is a dangerous procedure - NO Smoking and do it in open area. Let it dry for a couple of days.
    3. Choose areas that need reinforcement. Sand then use fiberglass weave mat with Epoxy Resin. Epoxy will bond to Fiberglass better fiberglass to itself. Epoxy runs like water. Paint it with brush on mat but it will flow into every nook and crack. A second application will probably be desired after 4-6 hours. Make sure boat is level and straight when you do this otherwise you might endup with a crooked boat.
    4. Then look at what you need to add back for structure, floor etc.. Use wood and regular fiberglass to make it back into a stiff hull. Fiberglass will not grab to epoxy. But for repairs Epoxy is better than polyester resins.
    5. This might be a good time to reinforce transom or area around cleats, etc...

    You do this and you have better than new boat

    Hope this helps.
     
  9. blakey1973
    Joined: Jul 2007
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    Location: wells,me

    blakey1973 Junior Member

    Update

    I have removed all the core material and the encapsulating glass. I have sand the entire hull. I am getting ready to repair the holes in hull and the start reinforcing the entire hull.

    I plane on putting two to three layers of 1708 biax. This is going down with epoxy. I will do this to the entire hull then put my stringers back in in the original spot and the built floor hull supports laterially about every two feet except where i paln to put my gas tank. then i will foam fill all the hull cavitys under sole leveling out the foam to the bottom of the sole. The sole will be sealed to the sides . I will have only an access panel for the fuel tank.
    Will put some pics up soon.
     
  10. mike steiger
    Joined: Jun 2007
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    Location: new york

    mike steiger Junior Member

    Hi,
    If you want to create a stronger laminate use alternate layers 1708D.B.45 degree and 1808 D.B. 90 degree.( All this means is the angle at which the strands cross.) Good plan this should beef up the hull pretty good. I would go with 1 1/2 ounce stitch mat laid down first to make sure I get a good bond to the hull,Then a layer of 1808 then 1708 and a final layer of 1808 this should give about an additional 5/32s of an inch thickness. I order all my fabric from U.S. Composites, they cary all the speacialty fabric that your looking to use. My epoxy comes from www.aeromarineproducts.com, six gallon pail delivered to your door for about 300 bucks. Good luck with your boat.
     
  11. mudman
    Joined: Mar 2007
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    Location: Madisonville, LA

    mudman Junior Member

    You can rebuild anything if you have the time,the tecnique, and the money, but please let me warn you.

    My dad rebuilt a galaxy years ago. He spent alot of time and money on this project. A few years ago I bought a Ranger and decided to rebuild it. Dad told me to dump the thing, but I didn't listen. I rebuilt the boat, and after alot of time and money, I had a 1976 Ranger. I thought that I would have a better boat, but it is an old hull. Fiberglass and gelcoat gets old. I reinforced the inside, and this added alot of weight. The boat is very heavy. The boat was not garage kept after the rebuild, and the sun pretty much destroyed it.

    So for all of my efforts (not to say that yours will be the same) all that I got was a 30 year old boat that did not suit my needs, lots of itchy nights, money out of my pocket, and probably cancer form the MEK. Man, I should have listened to my dad.

    You can buy a new boat (with engine, controls, and trailer) for 15K. I would definately consider cutting my losses now, ony b/c I have been through it already.

    If you insist on rebuilding this boat, let alot of new resin soak into the old fiberglass before you put your weave down on the hull. It's good to put wet resin down to make the dry resin get a little tacky every time you put a new layer of glass down over another. Trihulls are a very strong hull, So I wouldn't go over 1/2" thick on the hull. (This is where your weight comes in). Your stringers should be in the center of the hulls. Regular mat over those, no bubbles. Use stainless nails or screws to connect the floor to the stringers. Fresh fiberglass over the stringers and install floor while fiberglass is wet. Do not fiberglass both sides of the floor, or it will hold moisture. Put in your decks and consoles however you want.

    I beg you though, light the thing on fire and get a new boat with a warranty.
     
  12. H180DSC
    Joined: Apr 2007
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    Location: Hillsboro, Oregon

    H180DSC Junior Member

    Hey, I don't want to start a pissing match here, but it seems to me that Mudman didn't take much pride in his work and let it go to sh@#. I am not getting the feeling of much boat building/repair experience either, but that is neither here nor there. I am currently in the middle of replacing the transom, stringers, and sole of my '76 Bayliner Admiralty, and converting from sterndrive to an outboard on a bracket. Believe me, I have gotten plenty of grief for it. The fact of the matter is that you came to this site looking for information and guidance on your repair. If you wanted someone to talk you out of it, you wouldn't have made it this far. Keep your nose to the grindstone, and you will get what you want, and it will be worth more to you personally in the end than 15K could ever buy you.

    Good Luck
    Dan
     
  13. blakey1973
    Joined: Jul 2007
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    Location: wells,me

    blakey1973 Junior Member

    Thank you Dan.
    You are exactly right. first i will have the pride and accomplishment of rebuilding it myself and go though a a learning spell of glass and wood working. I think it is fun to try to learn on my own. I always learn more by doing then getting taught in some ways.
     
  14. mike steiger
    Joined: Jun 2007
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    Location: new york

    mike steiger Junior Member

    Hi,

    Dan I must say your post was well put. If a hull is sound and in good condition it is worth rebuilding. I have made my share of mistakes in the 30 years of doing this but in the end it alway's seems worth it. I try to keep my post filled with info that will help the people on this board accomplish their goals and keep them from making some of the mistakes I have. Blakey go for it, and I don't think it will cost you anywhere near 15k to do it. Any qoestions you have I will try to give you the best info I have. You should check out www.classicmako.com and see what many of the members of this site have accomplished. Good luck with your boat.
     

  15. H180DSC
    Joined: Apr 2007
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    Location: Hillsboro, Oregon

    H180DSC Junior Member

    There you go Blakey! Just remember to wave at all the skeptics on the shore (which finger you use is your choice) ;) as you cruise by in your boat. Good luck with your build.

    Dan
     
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