Restoring 12' Dinghi

Discussion in 'Boatbuilding' started by HoustonB, May 29, 2007.

  1. HoustonB
    Joined: May 2007
    Posts: 18
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Arizona

    HoustonB Junior Member

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
    (Click ea. individual thumbnail to enlarge.)

    I had originally typed up a rather lengthy post explaining my intent for restoring the above pictured dinghi, but lost it after the page the Submit New Thread failed to load. So, the following will be a brief synapsis.​

    I need to..
    • .. restore this boat within 10 days.
    • .. sell it for @ least $250.

    I plan on..
    • .. stripping the interior of its wood, wiring, etc.
    • .. installing a wooden trim to the perimeter of the hull.
    • .. installing wooden flooring & possibly upright seats.
    • .. sealing the interior with marine epoxy.
    • .. painting the interior a gun-metal gray.
    • .. painting the exterior a dark blue, highlighting the current baby-blue streak with a white trim in hopes of creating an aesthetically pleasing color scheme.

    Suggestions, advice, et cetera would be greatly appreciated. & I intend on updating throughout the progression of this project. Thanks in advance.

    - Houston B.​
     
  2. HoustonB
    Joined: May 2007
    Posts: 18
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Arizona

    HoustonB Junior Member

    Day 1: 8:46AM

    [​IMG]
    (Click to enlarge.)​

    Woke up around 6:30 & began stripping, scrubbing, & scrapping. So far, all the interior wood has been removed, excluding the back panels (far-left of the dinghi), the styrofoam that had been placed underneath the seating areas (I assume to assure flotation?) has been taken out, the majority of the peeling interior paint has been scrapped off, the hull has been scrubbed both inside & out although there are patches of oil & caked on mud that will need to be wire-brushed & scrubbed once more when my dad is able to get out to Home Depot, Lowes, or wherever to buy a wire brush.

    Anyways, my plans for today are to..
    • .. wire-brush the interior/exterior & remove the remaining patches of oil, mud, et cetera.
    • .. spray the interior with its first coat of primer.

    So far, so good. Most of the dirty work is complete & I've become more confident that I can complete this project in well under 10 days. The faster its complete, the faster I can advertise it, & the faster I can advertise it the quicker I can get it sold. If all goes well I will have $250 in a little over a week, if not more. Again, any comments, suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated.

    - Houston B.​
     
  3. hansp77
    Joined: Mar 2006
    Posts: 690
    Likes: 34, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 200
    Location: Melbourne Australia

    hansp77

    Hello Houston,
    welcome to the forum, and good luck with your enterprise.

    I do have to ask why?
    What is your purpose with this boat? Why do you have to sell it within 10 days?
    Was this a freebie that you are trying to raise some quick money off?
    I would have to doubt that the cost of materials and your labour time will be worth it in the end, but I don't mean to be pessismistic.
    While restored and on a trailer I suppose you might get the price you are after (I don't exaclty know the US market for boats like that, just the Australian one), however needing to sell any boat within a very small timeframe like that is not the way to get top dollar.
    Any boat priced at its actual value may sit for months or years unsold, untill someone who actually wants that boat comes along.
    Most boats priced at considerably lower than their real value will probably sell a lot quicker. Probably.
    The only boats I see sell in less than a week (which no doubt you will be looking at by the time you are ready to sell) are either of very high demand, or offered at well less than half their market value. In context, virtual giveaways.

    There are more than a few fiberglass experts around, so hopefully someone will step in and give you a bit of advice.
    I think you could help your situation by explaining your situation a little more, your needs, particular issues you would like advice on, your experience, any information about the boat, its make/model, age, etc, especially any problems known about the boat.

    Anyway, good luck,
    I don't mean to be a downer.
    I hope it works out for you.

    Hans.
     
  4. HoustonB
    Joined: May 2007
    Posts: 18
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Arizona

    HoustonB Junior Member

    Hans -

    Thank you for your reply. The purpose of this boat is to be sold, plain & simple. It was a freebie, given to my family by a friend of ours & I am hoping to make some quick money off of it. I have to sell it within 10 days for @ least $250 because I am in dire need of the money, as it will enable me to go to Florida with my girlfriend & her family on the 10th. I'm not exactly looking to get top dollar for the boat, just as close to $250 as possible. My dad already has potential prospects for the completed boat, & I have posted a bulletin on Craigslist.com advertising the completed boat & the neccesity to sell it within 10 days. & fortunately, I've already 2 potential prospects asking to see pictures of the boat upon its completion. I'm hoping to sell this within the week, & as you've said, it probably won't sell unless its a fraction of its actual value, & I have no doubt that it will be once its completed, as the lumber, paint, sealant, labour, et cetera will probably meet or exceed that $250 mark. The demand for water-ready boats, I would assume, is steadily increasing, as I live in Arizona & more & more people are looking to go boating throughout the summer as the temperatures rise. So, as you said, I will be selling this boat for more than likely half its market value; a virtual giveaway.

    As far my particular needs, I would like to be able to remove all the oil & caked on mud from the flooring of the boat, but I am unable to remove it with a simple brush & cleaning solution. My dad left 10 minutes earlier to buy a wire-brush head for his drill, so after I test that out, I will report back with my results. As for my experience, I've none what-so-ever & am going about this project with an open-mind & ABC procedures (strip, clean, prime, paint, et cetera. I am unsure of its make, model & age, but judging by its boating stickers it's @ least 10 years old. Other than the oil & caked on mud, there are no other known defects in the boat. We are replacing the styrofoam with expanding foam, so as to achieve a uniformity within the seating columns & will be buffing the boat in its entirety so as to achieve a smooth surface for the primer & eventual paint. Although this project is being done in hopes of making money fast, I hope to be able to do more projects such as this in the future, where my time isn't so restricted & I am able to put much more time & detail into the boat. Anyways, do you think its possible to sell this boat for $250+? I will continue to update with its progress & will post pictures of the completed boat when the time comes. Thanks again for your reply, I appreciate it.

    - Houston B.​
     
  5. hansp77
    Joined: Mar 2006
    Posts: 690
    Likes: 34, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 200
    Location: Melbourne Australia

    hansp77

    No probs Houston,
    I was hoping someone from your neck of the woods would step in, or someone with fiberglass boat knowledge...
    but until then I'll keep going with my limited advice.

    I would be very wary to get the wire brush onto caked on oil and mud. In fact I woldn't do it at all. You should be able to get that off by simply soaking with hot water and lots of strong detergent, and or scrubbing with a light abrasive such as a green kitchen scourer or plastic brush. Wire brushing it is just going to scratch and cut into the gell coat and maybe beyond, probably requiring fairing before painting (more money, more work)- it may even prefer to cut into the glass than the sticky oil and mud. If soaking and scrubbing doesn't get it off, then I would get in there after soaking with a good paint scraper/stripper/spatula thing. Use one that is old and worn-in rather than a new one whose sharp edges will cut into the fiberglass. Then probably follow with some fine grade sandpaper if it still requires it.

    If I was you, I would use the search funciton on this forum for various fiberglass restorations, repairs, painting, etc..

    How is the gel-coat on the outside of the hull?
    You say you want to repaint, however, it might be worth doing a test patch of cut and polishing to see how that comes out (again searching for fiberglass restorations and painting techniques should uncover some of this info). I have heard that this can often be quite affective, scuffing off the outside aged white-and-chalky gelcoat and polishing up the fresh new stuff underneath. If it actually works, it may very well produce a better result that a quick home paintjob (especially considering that it will be your first such) and would definately be cheaper... (considering labour is what you have for free and money is the goal?).
    How were you planing to paint? Brushing (ewh), rolling (um) or spraying (better)? And what paint?
    If the paint you are going to use is just a cheapo one, then I really think polishing the original gelcoat could be better. (but really, what do I know?- FIBERGLASS EXPERIENCED PAINTERS AND RESTORERS ARE WELCOME TO TAKE OVER HERE)

    You might wanto list what materials you have already bought and what you are considering to buy. As far as I know, expanding foam is an open cell foam (prone to waterlogging). If money was a high priority for me, for this job I would probably just hunt down a heap of styrofoam, carefully cut it to fit (under your seat's I assume, and glue it in. You can get styrofoam free from your local markets, greengrocers, etc. (boxes that fruit and vegetables came in) or out the back from their bins. just ask around. You will probably want to get a small cheap kit of epoxy glue, for the other fix ups you are doing (woodwork etc) and this could be used on the styrofoam (won't disolve it like some other glues will).

    anyway, theres a bit more for you.

    good luck
    I can't recomend more, doing as much research here as you can before you go any further, with purchases and stuff like wire brushing.

    Hans.

    (P.S. come on fiberglass guys, share your knowledge, this aint my area and time is of the essence here)
     
  6. HoustonB
    Joined: May 2007
    Posts: 18
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Arizona

    HoustonB Junior Member

    Hans -

    I apologize for not explaining that the boat is a metal boat earlier, as I'm sure this would've affected the advice & suggestions you gave in your previous posts. The oil + caked on mud would not come off when soaked with hot water, a strong cleaning solution & scrubbed with a coarse garage brush, but the wire brush worked exceptionally well. It fit well in between the floor indentations & removed the oil & caked on mud with ease. After running the wire brush over the entire boat, it was again soaked with hot water, the strong cleaning solution & scrubbed with the coarse garage brush & like magic, the floorings looked nearly brand new. With that in mind, I was able to get the majority of the first coat of primer on the interior of the boat, in preparation to get it painted. & I had asked my dad about how we were going to go about painting it & he quickly rattled off, "We're goin' to spray it." Just so happens that spraying is the best way to go about painting! I'm not too sure which paint we're going to use, I've searched the forums & am either incapable of properly searching or there are not threads on ideal brands of paint for a metal boat.

    As far as materials bought/planning to be bought; we've bought..
    • .. 3 cans of primer (not enough, obviously).
    • .. a wire brush that worked like wonders.

    What we're planning to buy..
    • .. more primer.
    • .. paint that is ideal for this project.
    • .. lumber for the floorings & trim of the hull.
    • .. blocks of styrofoam, or expanding foam if unable to find blocks that fit within the seating columns.
    • .. masking tape.
    • .. cheap epoxy glue.

    With all this said, today I intend on finishing applying the first coat of primer to the rest of the boat, allow that to dry & then apply the second coat of primer. In between the drying of these coats of primer I may begin to soak & scrub the outside of the hull to prep it for its coats of primer. Now, I realize this may be the exact opposite way to restore a boat & I apologize for this, but its intent is to be a quick fixer-upper. I really do not like saying this but extensive attention to detail will ultimately be non-existant, as I'm going about this as quick & effectively as possible. I promise, though, that next project I get my hands on (& I intend on buying a cheap fixer-upper & working on it thoroughly & correctly), I will go about working on it in the correct manner. Nevertheless, thanks for your replies Hans; you seem to be the only one interested in the project I've gotten myself into.

    - Houston B.​
     
  7. hansp77
    Joined: Mar 2006
    Posts: 690
    Likes: 34, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 200
    Location: Melbourne Australia

    hansp77

    Silly me I thought it was a fiberglass boat. Looking at it again, I wonder why I thought that? It does rather look like a tinnie now that I think about it.

    so you can ignore most of my advice.

    it sounds like you have it pretty much worked out.
    If you are spraying, then you should get a pretty good finish with a range of different paints, one pack or two (single part or two part). Remember to be very carefull wearing the proper breathing masks, especially if you are using two pack paint (or probably just stand upwind and let your dad do it:D )
    Probably easiest is to talk around to your local suppliers and see what they advise for paint choice, of course indicating to them that the priority is for it to be cheap, and look good (not necessarily be the best or last forever as they will inevitably try to sell you).

    I would be focussing on what you can get cheap or free.
    That is why I say thing like go to your greengrocer for free polystyrene foam- even if it only saves you $20 - $30, in the scheme of things, it is probably worth your effort to quickly cut it to size, and stack and glue it in (so long as the seating is fastened securely you don't need to do the greatest amount of glueing- just enough to hold it all together)
    Regarding timber for you boat, plywood may be a good option, especially for the flooring. In my opinion actual timber seating is nicer than ply, but you could get a good finish out of both.
    Again, I would base this on what you can get cheap or free.
    For your purposes I definately wouldn't go with marine ply- it is just too expensive and probably overkill- if it was your own boat, then yeah sure go for it. I believe the ply you would want is exterior grade constuction ply, which can then be treated or sealed with some epoxy, thinned down with some epoxy or laquer thinners, so that it penetrates into the wood and seals it from water ingress which will cause it to rot. then prime and paint. Or simply prime and paint it. Again, for ease and cheapness, probably option two. (just make sure you well and truly saturate and seal with paint/epoxy the edges and end grain of the ply- this is where water gets it)
    for a current thread among many many on ply see here

    anyway, the search feature is a bit annoying to navigate and it does take some time to read through the threads, however, there is a wealth of information here, and somewhere every concern of yours has already been answered.

    Good luck with it, and remember to get a couple of good photo's of it when your done.

    p.s. this thread might not be gathering much responses because it is sort of in the wrong forum. You might consider starting a new one with any of your concerns- to which at the beginning you can include a link to this one..
    the metal boatbuilding one may be more appropriate,
    http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=21
    or even the materials forum regarding your choices and options for paint, wood, etc
    http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=7


    Hans.
     
  8. HoustonB
    Joined: May 2007
    Posts: 18
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Arizona

    HoustonB Junior Member

    Hans -

    The first coat of primer has been applied & I am letting it dry as I type this. It went on pretty well, although we used 3 separate colors of primer (brown, gray & black; as you'll see pictured below). I also went over the primer that had already dried with a paint chipper to chip away any paint that had risen due to whatever circumstances, & then sprayed over the bare areas with the primer to assure a smooth coat of primer. After I finish this post I'll more than likely be out their spraying on the second coat of primer and/or prepping the exterior for its first coat of primer. & as far as wearing the proper breathing masks, my dad has already warned me a few times to keep my head out of the hull of the boat as I spray; which I tend to do & resultingly have been blowing out gray/brown/black colored snot. Anyways, here's the boat with its first coat of primer:

    [​IMG]
    (Click to enlarge.)​

    Now, I want to thank you for warning me about the expanding foam. I had no clue that it was prone to waterlogging & that is definitely a vital piece of information to know. I will have to tell my dad about that, 'cause I'm not sure he knows that it's prone to such a thing, but he may have a certain type of expanding foam in mind that is far less prone to waterlogging. Nevertheless, if he hadn't known about it being prone to waterlogging, he'll most likely go with regular styrofoam. & I read that expanding foam has the tendency to break joints, so I am leaning more towards regular styrofoam as my means of flotation within the seating columns. As far as lumber goes, I think we're going to stray away from plywood & go with a mahogony-like wood. How we're going to set-up the flooring is almost in a lattice-like form, so you'll be able to see the hull of the boat. It will also serve as a way to prevent water that has washed onboard from sitting & rotting away the wood as it will have no where to situate itself & will be able to flow through the indentations in the hull to the back of the boat & back out into the water. My dad probably has plenty of plans up his sleeve for the seating areas, flooring & trim of the boat (he's a carpenter & handy like that), although the color scheme & overall visual components of the boat are in my hands. Do you think a nice mahogony-colored trim against a dark blue exterior paint color, highlighted by 2 white stripes across the center of the hull will be aesthetically pleasing? The interior will be a gun-metal gray, so I'd be playing off the darker colors, highlighted by a lighter color (gray, dark blue, & white). If you dislike this color scheme, suggest another, I am open to any & all suggestions. & as far as responses to this topic, I'm not so much concerned with it to tell you the truth. As long as you continue to reply, I will be satisfied, as you've already helped me out a lot & taught me things I had no clue of beforehand. But, I'm off to spray the second coat of primer on the interior, then onto prepping & spraying the exterior I go! & don't worry, I'll have plenty of pictures of the finished boat once I get there. Thanks again for all your help, Hans.

    - Houston B.​
     
  9. hansp77
    Joined: Mar 2006
    Posts: 690
    Likes: 34, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 200
    Location: Melbourne Australia

    hansp77

    Looking good Houston,
    I rekon it'g going to come up great.

    I couldn't tell you what colours to choose, as thats the fun part and is up to you. I do like dark blue. And it will certainly go well with the mahogany. I tried to paint my sailboat as close to a midnight blue as I could get, but had problems with it bubbling in the sun from heat (because it is a wooden boat- it will be fine for yours)
    heres an image of mine after two coats, wet and dried between, ready for the final topcoat, and then the bubbles appeared. The grey bits are where I had to peel back the paint to raw wood and reprime and build up, sand, prime, etc...
    Nightmare. I ended up going with a sort of powder blue just for the heat issues.
    [​IMG]

    regarding the expanding foam, a lot of people do use it. I just raise the issue that you will be paying good money for a not ideal product. I believe that stryrofoam will eventually waterlog a little bit as well (though I am not too sure), but I couldn't imageine it would do it quicker than expanding foam- and the benefit it can be had totally free.
    Money is the issue here, as every dollar you save is another dollar in your pocket.

    It sounds like you can safely let your dad take over on the woodwork, so go for it.

    Regarding the spraying of your boat. Are you actually going to use a spraying unit (airless sprayer etc), or are you going to use spray-cans?
    I ask this because it sounds like your primer has been in spray cans.
    I don't know what sort of finish you will get with spray cans. Plus it will cost a fair bit of money to do the entire boat.
    A freind managed to do a pretty good job on a car door with only spray cans, but you have to be really carefull to slowly build up a even coat, lightly one pass at a time. It is too easy to get built up thick patches and runs, which just look awefull.
    Does your dad have much painting experience? Compared to spraying from cans, you might get much better results (at least on the outside of the hull) from 'rolling on and tipping off' (someone rolls the paint on to cover and another follows behind with a brush to 'tip it off' and leave a smooth even mirror like finish).

    anyway, you gotta go with what you've got., so good luck.

    Hans.
     
  10. HoustonB
    Joined: May 2007
    Posts: 18
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Arizona

    HoustonB Junior Member

    Hans -

    Both coats of primer have been applied to the interior of the boat & my dad's picking up the paint he requested as well as a few more cans of primer for the exterior of the boat tomorrow morning. The color scheme is not going to be far off of what I had previously intended; on top of the dark-blue base coat will be a pearlized clear-coat, to give it a glossy, gleaming shine & instead of masking off the areas where I was going to spray the white stripes down the center of the hull, my dad'll be buying actual boat stripes that we can apply to assure uniformity on both sides of the hull.

    Now, for the expanding foam, my dad said its just as prone to waterlogging as regular styrofoam is, so I'm going to guess that he has no problem w/ the cost & is looking more for uniformity than cost. I've no problem w/ it, as I'm a guy of uniformity myself. & yes, the woodworking will be left entirely to my dad (for the most part, I will more than likely be helping him here & there). He is going with a poplar trim with a teak stain to give it that teak look, rather than simply buying teak - the cost of poplar, as you may know, is far less than the cost of teak. As far as the finish goes, my dad seems to be confident that mine and/or his spray can skill will suffice once we get to the actual finish. I can suggest rolling & tipping, as you mentioned, but I think he's intent on finishing w/ spray can paint.

    All this aside, keeping in mind the necessity to sell the boat within 10 days, I posted an ad on Craigslist which stated the following:

    No more than 2 hours later, my dad recieved a phone call from a man who lives about 45 minutes away from us who said the boat described in the ad fit his bill perfectly, as the lake he resides near only allows boats with 12 HP or less motors. He asked that we send him pictures to his e-mail, & my dad readily complied & told him that we'd send them as soon as the boat had been 100% completed. Now, knowing that we've got a potential prospect for the boat, I am more than likely going to be out there all day tomorrow getting 99% of the spray work done. The woodwork will more than likely be completed by my dad on Saturday, & the boat will most likely be sold - if the guy likes what he sees - on Sunday. Leaving me $650 over what I had expected to get from the boat & a little under a week to relax. I couldn't have been more lucky with this boat. Anyways, I will continue to update with pictures; I'm hoping I'll be able to post a picture with the interior completed & the exterior primed & ready for its finish by tomorrow night. So, expect an update either around 12PM Arizona Time (GMT-07:00) or around 6 or 7PM Arizona Time.

    - Houston B.​
     
  11. hansp77
    Joined: Mar 2006
    Posts: 690
    Likes: 34, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 200
    Location: Melbourne Australia

    hansp77

    Didn't know you had an outboard with it as well.
    That considerably changes the price you can expect, and overall maybe the way you go about doing things, such as spending a little more money on the hull.
    It sounds like it is all going great. The stick on boat stripes will definately help the final look.

    Good luck, I look forward to seeing the finished product.
    Hans.
     
  12. HoustonB
    Joined: May 2007
    Posts: 18
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Arizona

    HoustonB Junior Member

    Hans -

    I just keep leaving things out, don't I? I apologize, again, for leaving that piece of information out. My dad didn't think the outboard worked, but he got it fired up yesterday & it was runnin' like a beauty. He's hopin' to get the trolling motor working as well, so we can throw that in the package. Anyways, the first coat of exterior paint has been applied (pictured below) & I'm waitin' for my dad to get back with the stripes, a darker shade of blue for the final coat of paint on the exterior & samples of wood for the trim. I'm going to assume he's not going with poplar, like he had said initially. You'll see in the picture, maybe, the nose isn't painted. I'm not too sure what he said he was going to do with it (I think metallicize it?), but he asked me to keep as much paint off of it as I could.

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    (Click on ea. individual picture to enlarge.)​

    I'm hoping once we/I get the final coat of paint on it, it'll have a smoother appearance. & my dad assured me that after we apply the clear coat of the pearlized paint, it'll look much smoother. Much, much smoother. So, I can breath a little easier. Next boat I get, if its aluminum, I am going to buy a sandblaster & blast off the previous paint job so I can get a better overall appearance to it, rather than sanding rough patches of paint out of the previous paint job & applying the first coat of paint right to the previous coat. I should have much of the final paint completed by tonight, like I had planned, & my dad is going to get to work with the woodworking tomorrow, again, like I had planned. So, everything is going along smoothly. I'm looking forward to posting pictures of the boat 100% completed, & am looking forward to your comments, suggestions or critiques. Again, Hans, I appreciate your replies. They've been both encouraging & helpful & I looking forward to keep you updated keeps me more focused on completing the job. Expect some updates following your next reply.

    - Houston B.​
     
  13. HoustonB
    Joined: May 2007
    Posts: 18
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Arizona

    HoustonB Junior Member

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    (Click ea. individual picture to enlarge.)​

    Pictured above is the finished interior (two coats of skid resistant battleship gray paint), excluding the wooden floorings & seating. I'm pretty satisfied with how it came out & am much looking forward to installing the new wooden floorings & seating, as I'm sure it'll break up much of that gray & will therefore be much more easier on the eyes. Less than 24 hours after posting the advertisement of the boat, I've 5 inquiries & 1 man who's verbally committed to buying the boat, so I couldn't be more satisfied. It's been only 5 days (& about 20 or so hours of labor), & I'm already beginning to reap the benefits of my hardwork & dedication toward fixing up this otherwise forgotten aluminum boat. Anyways, my dad has decided to go with the poplar trim, & rather than two white boat stripes, we're going with a stained wood trim that'll go across the hull where the stripes would've been placed. I'm estimating that the boat will be completed entirely by tomorrow afternoon, if all goes well with the final coats of exterior paint today. I hope to be posting pictures of the completed boat by this time tomorrow, so if all goes well, expect 'em.

    Just to keep tabs, this is the list of what we've bought so far + their prices;
    • 6 cans of primer @ ~$6/can (~$36 total).
    • 1 gallon of royal blue paint @ ~$15/gallon (~$15 total).
    • 1 gallon of dark blue paint @ ~$15/gallon (~$15 total).
    • 1 gallon of battleship gray skid resistant paint @ ~$15/gallon (~$15 total).
    • 1 paint roller w/ tray & 4 paint brushes (~15 total).

    Update 7:37PM: 1/3 of the exterior complete.

    [​IMG]
    (Click to enlarge.)​
    - Houston B.​
     
  14. HoustonB
    Joined: May 2007
    Posts: 18
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Arizona

    HoustonB Junior Member

    Attached is a picture of the interior of the boat;
    99% completed - excluding the 3 upright seats
    which will be bolted atop the wooden seating areas.​
     

    Attached Files:


  15. HoustonB
    Joined: May 2007
    Posts: 18
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Arizona

    HoustonB Junior Member

    A week & a day after beginning the restoration process on the boat,
    it's been completed & sold for $900. Attached are 4 pictures of the
    completed boat, but unfortunately the picture quality is less than perfect.​
     

    Attached Files:

Loading...
Forum posts represent the experience, opinion, and view of individual users. Boat Design Net does not necessarily endorse nor share the view of each individual post.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Your circumstances or experience may be different.