Deck Replacement

I installed new fuel tanks in my 34ft hatteras (1965) and now have to replace the deck.What type of lumber do I use for the deck framing?The old framing was glassed to the sides and spanned the entire cockpit (12' x 11')without connecting down to the stringers.The deck itself I am considering going with nidacore panel but I have not worked with this material.Any help on this project or input would be great,I could not replace this boat it is a true classic and deserves another 40 years of pleasure.

 

Hey Instigator:
I, myself, cannot help you but, there are many who can.
Jimslade seems to know a lot about the Nidacore. His PM is @ http://boatdesign.net/forums/private.php?do=newpm&u=10198

Par also is very knowledgable as well as many others.

 

Maybe this will help

Try to post some pics for the guys with knowledge here. They might help you thru the proccess.
Also try to take a look at for basic info:

http://www.rotdoctor.com/glass/GLrotrepair.html

Good luck!

 

we have just gone through this.. there are a lot of pics posted so just search my postings

 

Thanks for the input ,read through your posts and needmore info on the wood that is used for supporting your deck? Is it basic doug fur that i can purchase at the local lumber yard in common sizes(2x4,2x8...).

 

Teak Marine Plywood

Hey guys, look what ive found!

http://worldpanel.com/

 

Another possibility: On a somewhat smaller boat I used Cedar decking in 1 inch thickness (on edge) for deck beams. light, stiff, rot-resistant. I used 16 inch spacing, I think. It has 1/2 inch plywood with glass/epoxy on top. Solid when I jump on it (and the similar beamed cabin roof is OK for dancing fiddlers as you can see in my sig ).

The cedar beams, with two clear coats of West Epoxy on them look real nice from inside, against the Epoxied and White-Painted plywood deck.

 

Douglas fur could be used, but you'd have to be selective about the stuff you got, as much of it is farm raised junk. As you go though stacks of fur you'll notice, every once and a while, one is especially heavier then the rest. These are the pieces you'll want. You can also use SYP (Southern Yellow Pine), Spanish cedar, mahogany, white oak, ash, cypress, blue gum, pitch pine, redwood, are among the species you can use, depending on availability in your area.

Some of these should be sized up or down, depending on specific species properties. In other words, if you had Douglas fur stringers before and found a good deal on white oak, you could decrease the dimensions of the stringers, to account for the additional strength an weight of the oak. Conversely, if you had hardwood stringers and switched to a weaker, softer wood, then you'd have to size up the stringer dimensions to make them strong enough for the job.

Try to determine the species of your stringers (sole support framing) and get something of similar properties.

 

It's all mahoghany, we spent about 3 weeks on the woodwork alone and I wont mention how much in case my wife ever reads this

 

great site

 

Elvis Has Left The Building

We are going outside to work on the bottom ,and props, and shaft and cutlass bearing and through hulls, ad nauseum

 

Hey Buckk seems like you're stuck with mahogany. How long you've been working on that project? I remerber you asking me about the mahogany we have here in the Dominican Republic in my Flare Boat thread. I haven't got time to finish my boat, was fishing in a 18' Four Winns Quest, but i just bought all the material to finish the stringers and floor on it. Decided to use marine ply on them. Also tried a 50' Ronin many times, it's a damn fine ship.
Good luck in your project.

 

were done

I finished the wood replacement last year, epoxied and primed the deck, threw some carpet over it and went boating. this winter we faired, sand, faired , sanded, sanded and more sanded,