Riveted iron Hull repair

You had better show us a picture of her just in case.

 

reply

I'am trying to get them when I do I will thanks thunderhead Dar

 

The fact that the hull was coated with sealant/preservative compounds (5200 external, coal tar interior) shows care and good planning by whoever did the last work. Seems like it was a careful and conservative approach, and hopefully the water ingress is strictly local. You seem to have a good grasp of the main issues, and being open-minded, seeking other opinions is a another advantage. Part of me envies you, part of me is very glad I'm not you!!

Your boat is unique, we'd probably all enjoy seeing a photo or two.

Good luck and smooth sailing!

 

Thanks

Give me your email and I will send some pics. When I brought the boat the hull was my main worry. However it was dry and I felt the approach was at least thought out. I did not like the concrete ballast. I would of prefered loose ballast. The 5200 sealant was to allow differential movement between the fiberglass and the hull. The coal tar epoxy seems to be holding up. Still there is rust stains in the water so something is corroding. I hope I can get it fixed w/o bankrupting me. Your advice and kind encouragement is appreciated. Take.

 

Around here they glass over old wood shrimp boats and use 5200 as in your boat. I'm pretty sure they imbed the glass in the 5200 before it cures, let the 5200 cure for a day or so and then resin the glass. Sam

 

Makes sense

That makes sense since the boat used to be located in Jacksonville Fla. It was in St Mary's Ga when I found it. Those Shrimpers know something about boats. The boat has a Detroit 671 which the Shrimpers love as well. Thanks for the tip. I wondered about the sequence. The 5200 sticks to the fiberglass? Then the resin for the next layer bonds to the fiberglass matt? I wondered how the 5200 and the fiberglass vbonded to each other.
Any thoughts on the matt or roving used? I would want it as strong as possible.

 

I'll ask what exactely the procedure is and post it for you. St. Mary is about 50 miles away. One of the local railways got written up in National Fisherman about 15 years ago for their 5200 process, so maybe they were the ones who did it. People were bringing their boats from as far away as Texas to have it done, I don't think there were many doing it. Do you have any pictures you can post? Sam

 

Pics

Here you go. All help is apprciated. She was built in 1893 and still floats.

 

That statement says it all. She's a beautiful boat. Enjoy her, and thanks for sharing your photos.

 

RC,

She has alot of character.

I hope you resolve any & all issues with her and get many more years of service.

Looks like a Dutch origin, or at least Dutch design???

Take care.

TGoz

 

open forum

hey guys Dar here I'am not the one with the green 1893 boat I'am the one with the aluminum boat thanks Dar

 

Beautiful l'emstaark or some such (OK Jack maybe I'm wrong but **** what do I know? - know one thing Jack your an obnox*&^%$£(&% cnut) Pity about the Green colour (see my posts on this colour in Guillermo's Traditions thread - plug!) Charlie Charm! of course mate Looked at the 'Cast' bit after posting and thought no thats wrong! but couldn't remember the right term at the time so left it! Your right, it's Wrought Iron - you shouldn't be welding that stuff either, and yes Alkali not acid but it got the idea across! which was the aim! As for the so called enginear frost lots of crude comments very few helpful ones! RC your going right mate, best of lukc with the repairs! Alternatively you could always tart her up and sell her on!! (but would you want to?)

 

No info yet, the town is having an annual 3 day festival and no one was at the railway. Monday or Tuesday I'll try again. Sam

 

The guy said they use Tremco 'Vulkem' instead of 5200 as its about half the cost. http://www.tremcosealants.com/ The procedure for steel is to sandblast to bare steel, then put on about as much 5200 as used for laying down tile. They use what he called a bi-axial cloth, which was two layers of roven at 90 degrees to each other but they weren't woven so the stuff was flatter than regular woven roven. They were stitched together and there was also a layer of mat attached. The roven side was stuck into the 5200 while wet, with the mat on the outside, and immediately saturated with polyester resin. On wood boats he just keeps putting on layer after layer wet on wet to the final thickness, which is usually 3-4 layers of the above stuff and a final layer or two of mat. On wood boats the first layer is ''backwards'' so the mat is out, the second and subsequent layers are normal with the roven out and the mat in, and the final layer(s) of mat. On wood boats galvinised, heavy duty staples are applied every 6'' or so with an air stapler through the first two layers of fiberglass. On steel boats he said you have to be carefull because you can't staple the glass on and there is a danger the glass will fall off. (Not the 5200 first layer, but subsequent layers) I suppose it gets heavy and since it's either vertical or overhead, that sounds reasonable. The reason he does it all at once, wet on wet, is so he doesn't have to do the surface prep required between layers that have set, like grind off the nubs and stray glass strands etc. You wouldn't have to do it wet on wet, wet on green is just as good. Green is when it's set but not real hard. You can use a paint scraper for nubs and stuff on green and hard glass instead of grinding, just keep it sharp. Sam

 

Egad. Sounds kind of like a half-assed quick fix to hide the problem. Any proof that it actually holds together in the long term?