Well look what I found.

The boat never had foam, so I was not going to put any in.
The more I look the more crap I find. No fillets were used on the stringers and the resulting voids were perfect places for water to sit. Stay tuned for what is discovered next.

 

asian bandit;I dont think you got burned,,,but I do think you were misslead,,unless you knew beforhand of the water damage

 

I knew about the damage....Did not know how extensive the labor would be...i have learned more about fiberglass in the last week than i have ever wanted to..I have also learned that painting the boat is going to require a professional to do it, if it is to be done right..i dont have a respirator or a spray gun....

 

Treated Lumber No- No- No !!!

Hey guys,
I'm a little late to see your thread here but, I strongly advise AGAINST using treated lumber for your projects. Treated lumber is SOFT (because of the chemicals sprayed onto the wood) and will not be a good foundation for any fastening devices such as screws. A friend of mine has already done what you are intending (or have allready) to do. He asked me to help and I was not impressed at all with the way the repairs went.

If you want to coat your "UNTREATED" wood with anything it should be CPES. Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer. This will remove any unwanted moisture from the wood and seal it.

By the looks of the pictures, the reason that your wood rotted in the first place is that it WAS INCAPSILATED in glass therefore trapping in any moisture that was allready present as well as any that may have leaked in from who knows where. I have personally seen this kind of damage when I was asked to help cut up and old glass boat for junk. The keel itself ( the backbone structure ) was 14" tall and 2" wide just behind the bow and was completely rotted through. This guy was originally going to repaint this boat and put his family into it on the water untill the fella that runs the local marina refused to make a simple repair for him based on his evaluation of the condition of the fiberglass.

Longliner suggested you get the boats looked at by a surveyer. Do this ! At the very least get some professional who does know a lot more about watercraft than you guys do to look your boats over.

Personally, this is why I don't care to ever own a fiberglass boat.

Mtnrat: You might have sufficient knowledge of woodworking and the tools used when it comes to home building and cabinetry and such but believe me when I say.... that's just the begining when it comes to boats and craft designed to be put out on the water. This is a whole new territory for you. Don't let this discourage you though. With determination (which I'm sure you have) you'll learn just fine. I'm not a builder or designer, as a matter of fact I'm only working on my first boat still (for the past three years) but, I can tell you that you have only touched the tip of the iceburg here.

There is a lot to be learned here. Have you looked at the Wooden Boat Building and Restoration forum for any information?

Treated wood is really a bad idea guys. CPES ain't cheap by no means ($100.00 per gal.) but it is well worth the expense in my book.

I don't think that you can even get paint, epoxy or fiberglass resin to stick to it.

Best of luck to you both.

 

VKRUE, thanks for the advise, and no offense taken. Since last posting here I definitely have discovered, NEVER to use treated wood of any kind. I have also read through thousands of posts and threads in various boat forums. This has resulted in a much better understanding of what I am about to embark upon. Still getting the inside of the hull perfect to start.(It keeps snowing so I have been skiing almost everyday this winter )
Cheers,
Sean

 

There is nothing wrong with pressure treated ply as long as its well dried out. Many builders use pressure treated. I've used it. But why would anyone want to use wood anymore when there are better materials that NEVER rot. Asianbandit and anyone that will listen Never Never do any work on stringers will its sitting on a roller trailer. Set the boat on either a straight bunk trailer or set it on three points. I like the outer rear transom corners and the bow section just as it starts to curve upward.

 

I am interested in those "other" materials. but have not received a definitive answer as to which to use for stringers and floors for my 18 footer. The previous stringers were two at 2"x12"x14' and two at 2"x4"x8". Of course trimmed to fit. Any help here would be beneficial. I am not very worried about cost.
Cheers,
Sean

 

I personally use Nidacore. Its lightweight and will never rot. Ive used it for transoms and stringers and sole's(floor). 2 Layers of 3/4 inch will work great.I have posted pics on other posts. If you want some I could post pics and instructions here.
Where in Canada are you. I have a supplier in my are. Toronto)

 

I live in Fernie B.C. I am very interested. Likely a supplier in Western Canada as well. If you could post pics and instructions here or give me the link to where they are that would be great.
Sean

 

Make sure there are no twists in the hull or mishapes due to sitting on rollers,etc. Also watch that you don't mishape it with your weight when you are inside replacing the stringers. The new stringers will lock in whatever shape is there, good or bad. While you have it all apart, make sure the transom is OK. Sam

 

Transom is good, replaced not long ago and checks out sound. I have the boat removed from the trailer up on blocks, very well supported. I took measurements before I removed the floor and stringers so I am good there. The rollers from the trailer did put quite a hook in the hull which I will remedy. Thanks for some of the heads up.
Sean