64 Resorter varnish help please

Well thats a first for me, sanding in the finish? I hope I am rading that wrong. You applied the no. 1 with wet and dry sandpaper? I think I am missing soemthing or some step is missing in the communications here.

 

Yeap sanding in the oil, I doubted what I was told so tried it both ways, the no1 is a mix of oils not really a varnish, gives a matt finish, the no2 was applied by brush and it gives a gloss finish.

 

Well, thats no different than wet sanding the surface, a waste in my opinion for using the product. You may as well use a simple jet speed varnish, or a good wood sealer, such as the Z-Spar 1026, which is absolutely wonderfull for his project. You can get multiple two to three coats on the bare surface, filling the wood grains, letting it cure for couple to three days and then block it out, and you have a wonderfull surface to varnish. Wearing chemicals on you or around you dripping everywhere, is pretty off the wall. I have been painting and varnishing for over 35 years, using just about every new fangled stuff that hits the markets, in tropical suns and in cooler climates, and have seen so much hype on "ease of use, last five to six year" song and dance, but this old goat keeps coming back to a good spar varnish, wood friendly and managable long term, too, with dealing with the natural tendancies of wood to come alive in seasonal changes.

As far as the color difference, there are some red mahogany stains, and some brown mahogany stains that were used on older hulls, such as these, but not knowing the life history of this one, its hard to tell if any stain was used. The wood, as it ages, will even change colors, sometimes, depending on some of the brands of topcoats that covers it.

 

I have found that a good qual single pot varnish is much easier to work with, easier to repair and easier to maintain, gave up on deks olje about 10 years ago, was finding that no matter how it was applied it just did not last more than 6-12 months, maybe we had a bad batch down here.
Worked on a brigantine that had large areas varnished using international gold spar varnish, was easier to maintain and easy to repair when scratched / gouged. I do not think it would be suitable for surfaces that will be immersed for long periods or surfaces that are contacting rollers on a trailer, too soft.

 

I wet sanded with Deks Olje#1 after applying numerous coats with a brush with does seem to give a nice smooth sheen to the wood. The problem i am having though is that bubbles are hardening in the # 2 finish.

 

Well, I am not sure, with all that you have stated, the reason you do not try something else. People varnish these types of boats all of the time. I surely would not continue doing this on your hull, when you can figure out a way , on scrap wood, that does not give you this much grief. I have not further comment on this one, but to say I looked at your gallery and the boat does not appear to be that bad. Good luck with it.

 

I too have suggested going to a high end varnish, perhaps Epiphany, but was told by my higher up that it was "crap" and that Deks Olje was the premiere product to use. Supposedly the latest greatest thing. I too believe that most times it is best to stick with the tried and true.

 

Deks Olje = bad.

Just my vote. I spend 3 days sanding the whole cockpit, by the end of the first season with Deks worse than when I started. Reading this thread with great interest.

Mike

 

I have contacted the Flood Co. reps about their Deks Olje Products and the problems I am having. After discussing at length, application methods and conditions they say they don't have an answer. BUT, they are flying here with a box of stripper and Deks Olje#1 and #2 and are going to start from scratch and try to figure out the problem. Now thats customer service.

 

We have restored several very old boats in the past and have found that trying to duplicate their varnish job was not the way to go. If you want it to look great and last while I know this will work. #1 go to the wood if you can. #2 Vacuum the dust off. Go Get Some Interlux Interprime Wood Sealer#3 Get Goldspar clear Gloss and if you want a satin finish in the end get Goldspar satin. Get Interlux 333 brushing liquid. #4Wipe wood down with the solvent you will use for thinning your varnish. #5 Follow the directions on the cans. If you want a satin finish put on your clear gloss coats and the last two with satin. Thin every coat to the 10 percent, it flows much better. Now if you are not quite satisfied with the gloss or you have divits in the finish don't worry just let it all sit and cure for a week. They don't tell you this on the can but you can buff this out to look like glass if you really whant awesome shine. We do it a lot and our stuff looks super.

 

We have restored several very old boats in the past and have found that trying to duplicate their varnish job was not the way to go. If you want it to look great and last while I know this will work. #1 go to the wood if you can. #2 Vacuum the dust off. Go Get Some Interlux Interprime Wood Sealer#3 Get Goldspar clear Gloss and if you want a satin finish in the end get Goldspar satin. Get Interlux 333 brushing liquid. #4Wipe wood down with the solvent you will use for thinning your varnish. #5 Follow the directions on the cans. If you want a satin finish put on your clear gloss coats and the last two with satin. Thin every coat to the 10 percent, it flows much better. Now if you are not quite satisfied with the gloss or you have divits in the finish don't worry just let it all sit and cure for a week. They don't tell you this on the can but you can buff this out to look like glass if you really whant awesome shine. We do it a lot and our stuff looks super.