what composit material is best

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by LEASEGUY, Dec 20, 2006.

  1. LEASEGUY
    Joined: Jul 2006
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    Location: NY

    LEASEGUY Junior Member

    I need (2) 3/4 thick 46"x72" sheets. Maybe 1/2 if it is bondable. replacing 2 bulk head walls, strength is important. must come up with affordable solution.
    wood is out did that 8 yrs ago and here I am again.
    Please any info greatly appreciated....
     
  2. yokebutt
    Joined: Aug 2004
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    Location: alameda CA

    yokebutt Boatbuilder

    Foam panels with glass skins are good but expensive. Just do the wood again, but don't cheat this time.
     
  3. tja
    Joined: Sep 2004
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    Location: canton oh

    tja Senior Member

    Tja

    Greenwood products make plywood XL Panels that are guarentied for life not to rot or delaminate or they will replace the panel and cover all lobor costs. I've used the stuff before and it is very good material with no voids. Can be found any maney merinas that do good boat repair. It's also used buy a lot of boat manufacturers. Good Luck.
     
  4. LEASEGUY
    Joined: Jul 2006
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    Location: NY

    LEASEGUY Junior Member

    Thanks for your advise. The original material was ply 5/8s with a smooth white skin on both sides. This bulkhead seperates cabin from aft and both sides should have a finish. I thought of using mica over ply but it freezes here in Ny and I was told the glue would give in low temps?
    Yo yokebutt, whatca mean cheat?
     
  5. roob76
    Joined: Dec 2005
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    Location: Miami,Fl.

    roob76 Junior Member

    i think what he means is use epoxy resin and make sure the bulkhead is completely encapsulated. if it were me i would use wood and epoxy make sure you encapsulate the edges also and sheath both sides with a fiberglass skin.
     
  6. LEASEGUY
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    LEASEGUY Junior Member

    Thanks Roob76,
    I did that last time around and the edges did hold ,I even waxed over my srew heads. This time I want a composit material, any ideas?
     
  7. roob76
    Joined: Dec 2005
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    Location: Miami,Fl.

    roob76 Junior Member

    with composites you have a few choices. you have nidacore,Divinycell ,corecell,coosa board and others. i have not used any of theese so i can't tell you how to use it but i can point you here which shows Divinycell and renicell and pre fabbed nidacore panels(fiberglass skinned from factory) being used.
     
  8. LEASEGUY
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    LEASEGUY Junior Member

    Thanks roob76, Happy Holidays!
     
  9. roob76
    Joined: Dec 2005
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    roob76 Junior Member

    no problem and happy holidays to you also!!:D
     
  10. kach22i
    Joined: Feb 2005
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    Location: Michigan

    kach22i Architect

    http://www.coosacomposites.com/
     
  11. LEASEGUY
    Joined: Jul 2006
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    Location: NY

    LEASEGUY Junior Member

    Thanks KACH,

    That sounds right for me.
     
  12. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Baltec panels or similar are what you want to look for. The cost will be much higher then good quality plywood. I would recommend you address the problems leading to your difficulties, rather then install something that will not tend the leak problem.

    Originally the panel was MDO (white faced ply) and these have had questionably quality in the last 15+ years.

    Composite panels can be made from many different materials, using several different construction methods. You need to understand the stresses and forces involved in it's application to specify the proper panel. Currently, we don't have enough information about your boat, to make a reasonable recommendation.

    Is this the old Silvertron your still working on? Those hulls were chopper over ply and not very well done, most being very heavy for what they are. The method and materials used were flawed (as you're finding out) and you have little choice but to use better of both. Do you have pictures?
     
  13. LEASEGUY
    Joined: Jul 2006
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    LEASEGUY Junior Member

    You hit the nail on the head, MDO was the original material and it was water leaking from poorly designed aluminum window trays that decayed the bulkheads and they still leak.My replacement was 3/4 MDO but when i picked it up it had a mystery layer of pres board and ironiclly it is the white surface which is taking water. I am willing to refit both bulk heads but I really want it to be the last F---n time.
    This is a 1975 Silverton Single V8 w Vdrive a bit of a slug but a family bay boat (Great South Bay LI NY) I have Pictures of the resurection i wil select a few and post em soon. Next one is all glass even if i have to put a pair of motors and drives in it!
     
  14. JR-Shine
    Joined: May 2004
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    Location: Vero Beach, FL

    JR-Shine SHINE

    For a pre-made panel, we have been using/selling the 20mm nidacore panels with good success. Right now we are putting in the sole of our 222 aquasport using them. Here is the gallery....

    http://209.190.4.227/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=495&page=11

    For a structural bulk head (like our motor well bulkhead in that same gallery), I prefer to make my own from Biaxial Glass/epoxy/H80 Divinycell.

    Each core material has its + and -
     

  15. JR-Shine
    Joined: May 2004
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    Location: Vero Beach, FL

    JR-Shine SHINE

    sorry, double post
     
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2006
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