IMP Boats Information

Discussion in 'Powerboats' started by JKE, Jan 17, 2005.

  1. 76aztec
    Joined: Jul 2006
    Posts: 12
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Colorado

    76aztec Junior Member

    Mike, thanks for the information. My condensor is inside the distributer and I was planning to replace it also along with a new dist cap, points, and rotor. I will try to find switches you are talking about and check them. I have been working late and by the time I get dinner it's to dark to work on the boat.

    Just for reference this is a 1976 Ford 351 engine which is labled as 235hp OMC stern drive.
     
  2. pdave1s
    Joined: May 2006
    Posts: 77
    Likes: 1, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 4
    Location: Clearlake Oaks, Ca

    pdave1s http://impboatclub.com

  3. mike7335
    Joined: Jul 2006
    Posts: 10
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: missouri

    mike7335 Junior Member

    joining the group

    Thanks for the welcome. 76 Aztec, that motor and drive is what is known a stringer mount. If you look at the mounting feet they are set on the lateral stringers and the drive goes through a rubber boot. Keep an eye on the mounting lag bolts for they have a habit of rotting out and the the motor starts walking. My suggestion if some have started this would be to get a resin/fiberglass repair kit from an auto parts store , mix up some resin, pull the bolt , coat it and the hole and re-install. Remember on the engine thing , you only need 3 things to fire 1. compression, 2 fuel and oxygen3. fire/ spark. look at your problem in the most simplistic fashion. remember, these motors were build when a guy could actually work on them.
     
  4. 76aztec
    Joined: Jul 2006
    Posts: 12
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Colorado

    76aztec Junior Member

    Mike, thanks again for the info. I know engines back then were just simple and fairly straight forward. I just received a book today published by Clymer on OMC stern drives 1964 to 1986. It has some great information about the engine, upper and lower cases. I purchased new points, condensor, and dist cap and will start replacing parts until it figure this out. I found the switches you were talking about and will check those this weekend.
     
  5. tactmed223
    Joined: Jul 2006
    Posts: 3
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Cleveland, Ohio

    tactmed223 New Member

    New Onwer of an 1989 IMP 220

    Greeting everyone I have been quitly reading the messages sent to one another asking for owner manuals. I have recently purchsed a 1989 IMP 220, I was fotunate the oner still had all the paperwork for the boat. If anyone needs a copy of my owners manual please respond
     
  6. 76aztec
    Joined: Jul 2006
    Posts: 12
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Colorado

    76aztec Junior Member

    Okay, I still have engine issues. It cranks but there is no spark. I tried pulling the high voltage wire to the center of the distributor cap and holding it 1/4" from ground and crank the engine. There is no spark! According to the OMC Stern Drive shop manual (page 38) under testing the ignition system, if I have voltage on the negative terminal with no wires connnected to it and the points open all the way I have a shorted distributor. This is the status I have currently. Sorry but I just don't understand that. If the coil only has the BAT terminal connected and the high voltage wire to the center of the distributor then how can there be a shorted distributor??? :?: The two wires that connect to the NEG terminal are the wire that goes to the condensor and another wire to the TACH. Tomorrow I hope to get NAPA to test the coil for me. Any advice would really be appreciated at this point.

    Thanks,
     
  7. mike7335
    Joined: Jul 2006
    Posts: 10
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: missouri

    mike7335 Junior Member

    Karl,

    Okay let go back to the basics. Put all wires back where they belong. Run a wire from the positive post on the battery to the positive terminal on the coil. This bypasses the key switch. Crank the motor and check for fire on the coil tower by simply holding the coil wire out a 1/4 inch or so. Do not use a ground use the coil. The OMC manual is somewhat confusing. Did you replace the condenser? If so make sure the connection is good on the termination and not touching the distributer base. Key switches go bad too. Let me knowif you have fire, if not we'll go to step 2
     
  8. 76aztec
    Joined: Jul 2006
    Posts: 12
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Colorado

    76aztec Junior Member

    Mike,

    Thanks agin for the information. I when down to NAPA today and they ohmed the coil for me and determined the coil is bad. I got a new one and installed it and BANG we have ignition. The boat started and ran great for about 5-10 minutes. Enough to ge the engine temp up to 200 degrees. At which point it studderd to a stop. This time I have spark but no gas in the carb float tank. Checked the filter before the pump and it is empty. After thinking about this I figured the boat is tilted about 10-15 deg toward the bow and the tank only has about 10-15 gallons in it out of 45 capacity. This tilt is due to a sloping driveway and the tongue was lowered to about 1 foot off the ground. Rasied the tongue and started to crank until it started to rain. Now it is a tomorrow project.

    Just for anyone elses information, if you ohm between the - and + post on a coil it should read 1.5 to 1.8 ohms on the older oil filled coils. If you ohm between either post and the high voltage connector in either polarity direction yoiu should read 5000 - 7000 ohms. Mine read 13000 ohms between the - post and the center tap of the coil.

    Do you know what shape the tank is these boats? Is it long and narrow or short and wide?

    Thanks,
     
  9. mike7335
    Joined: Jul 2006
    Posts: 10
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: missouri

    mike7335 Junior Member

    Karl,

    I bet you had a big grin when you heard her fire. The tanks were rectangular. You should check where the fuel line goes into the tank. Unscrew the 90 that has the fuel feed hose on it. Right below that (in the tank) you will find a thimble size screen. These screens get clogged so clean it out. Screwed in the 90 is a back flow device to stop fuel from siphoning out if you have a leak. It is a spring loaded ball and if the fuel pump gets weak it will not open all the way. Try getting a brass fitting and run the boat without the check valve and see what happens. In any event clean the sock filter.
     
  10. Lucian_fegley
    Joined: Jun 2006
    Posts: 8
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: NY

    Lucian_fegley Junior Member

    Can Some one help me?

    I have a 1974 IMP 25.5' Twin inboards with 888's. It has a Cuddy cabin and a small port a potty. Can someone please point me in the right direction for what the model name is and were I can find oe parts for it I want to restor the boat but have run into nothing but dead ends.
     
  11. 76aztec
    Joined: Jul 2006
    Posts: 12
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Colorado

    76aztec Junior Member

    Mike, you bet it was music to my ears to hear that motor start and run! :D Even after I tilted the boat back toward the transom instead of the bow and it restarted I was excited. I checked the pump flow rate and it is just about what the SELOC manuals says it suppose to be. I was concerned about the tanks becuase to get to them I have to pull all the carpet out of the boat.

    While I had it running I connect a water hose to the stern drive and ran the motor to test the thermostat and it stays constant about 190 degrees (the guage has 150 mark & a 240 mark with a mark halfway between them, I'm guessing 190).

    Just on another note I went to Crowley Marine in Denver and it is a little shop. Everything is shipped from a warehouse in California and if it is not there they search other boat warehouses for it.

    Thanks again for the information, you have a geat knowledge about these boats and glad you joined the forums!!
     
  12. 76aztec
    Joined: Jul 2006
    Posts: 12
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Colorado

    76aztec Junior Member

    Lucian_fegley, I have a 1974 sales brochure but none of the boats in it are 25.5'. The closest is a X-246 at 24.5' and could be equiped with twin motors and a cuddy cabin. Look at the pictures I have posted at http://impboatclub.com/mybb/showthread.php?tid=55 it would be in the first couple of images. Hope those pictures help you narrow down your boat model.

    There could be another brochure that covers larger boats that someone else has.
     
  13. mike7335
    Joined: Jul 2006
    Posts: 10
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: missouri

    mike7335 Junior Member

    25.5

    Lucian,

    That would be a 255 in current terminolgy. We made that boat for alot of years. I can scrounge through some brochures that I have, but it's a 255. You can get on the internet and goggle it or you can contact Raymonds at lake of the Ozarks Missouri. The interiors change from year to year but the hull and deck are the same. If anyone has brochures from say 85-1990 that me driving the 255 and the 270. I have aged since then however.
     
  14. Lucian_fegley
    Joined: Jun 2006
    Posts: 8
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: NY

    Lucian_fegley Junior Member

    It looks close but the boat is 25.5' long but every thing else looks the same
     

  15. mike7335
    Joined: Jul 2006
    Posts: 10
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: missouri

    mike7335 Junior Member

    Hence the name 255, and I might add that is a true 25'5" without bow pulpit or molded swim platform. Overall length (OAL) is measured at the shear line of the mold. In order to make boats londger OEM's used to and still do mold in bow pulpits, or swim plartforms thus making a 24' boat now 26' justifying a higher price with the same usable space as a 24'.
     
Loading...
Forum posts represent the experience, opinion, and view of individual users. Boat Design Net does not necessarily endorse nor share the view of each individual post.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Your circumstances or experience may be different.