Material for Mako fuel tank hatch...

Hi -

When I took off the fuel tank hatch (90% under the center console, some sticks out in behind the console where the operator stands) it was delaminated from something completely rotten. There is a skin that was on the topside and glass on the bottom and something end-grain between them. The skin isn't in the best condition so I am thinking I won't even use that on the new hatch. I am looking into using Starboard or NeveRot but there is no support at the center of the hatch. The area is 42"x50", 1" thick. Could I use pressure treated plywood for this? Would I need to glass it? Please advise what the best replacement would be. I would like it to match my Mako deck color -- it's a mustard-brownish color.

Dave

 

That "something completely rotten" would be the plywood used in the original floor. I would make a FB sandwich (orio cookie) using 40 oz. roven and composit core for the hatch with a edge build up to the 1" depth. 42" x 50"x 3/4" PTW classed in, would be pretty heavy. I would impregnate and seal all newly installed wood with epoxy, durability, longevity, strenght. But you will have to paint it for UV protection and colormatch.
Chances are the rest of your floor/deck is in the same shape as your hatch. Any other soft spots?
In process of doing that now..
Eric H

 

It would save a lot of time and hassle to re-use the old hatch. If 90% is under the console and only 10% is visable, can you turn it around end for end and then stand on the end that used to be under the counsel? Anyway, dig out the old stuff and grind the hatch to good glass. Put it on a flat surface and lay in a layer or two of 1 1/2 oz mat and then imbed a mess of 6" square pieces of plywood the same thickness as whatever was in there to begin with. Let it set up , smooth out the lumps with a grinder then a layer of mat and 24 oz woven roven. Polyester resin is fine. Or you could do as Deeman says with epoxy and foam-balsa core. The main thing is it is easier and less hassle to re-use the old hatch topside if possible. Sam

 

The rest of the floor seems solid. I'm ~225lb and I dont feel it sag at all when I move around inside the boat. The console was not sealed down very well when I bought it though so I'm guessing the hatch has come off before. What are the current opinions on Starboard - is it suitable to cut a hatch out of that and not glass it or would that end up sagging badly in a couple years?

Dave

 

You can't make glass stick to Starboard (nor is there any reason to glass it to begin with) and it will sag badly in a couple weeks. Sam

 

What type of foam would I be using? Is there a composite foam (so it doesnt rot again) that will be able to support my standing on it? Also, can anyone recommend a good place online to purchase the glass/foam/epoxy materials?

Thanks,
Dave

 

you can go with starboard the make it with a nonskid pat. on it , I just did a job I used 3/4 and with sum alum. box to aid as a stiffer also a place to mount the leaning post, no flex at all. but I did have to paint the rest of the decks It dont come in that nice shade of yellow .

 

I like and use: John Greer Assoc.
nice guy, very helpful and good stuff!!
Eric H