Deck Repair

Hello, I`m new to this forum and looking for some advise. I`m fixing up an old boat I have one area which I need help with. The bilge pumps were cut into the floor when I got the boat, now I cut this area out some more so I could repair a hole in the hull. I want to repair this area but I`m not sure how to go about it. 1 : Should I reglaze the deck at the same level as was. 2 : Would I be better to modify with a drop down area where I could install the bilge pumps. What do you guys think would be my best options or would you think of something different altogether. Thanks for any help or advise given.

 

You could make a hatch cover in teak and install the pumps under.

 

From where does the water run to these pumps? What I am getting at is if you glass in nice sumps are you trapping water that may come from somewhere else? I don't like the exposed, rough edges of things there. I didn't look long enuf to figure it out ( I don't see too well anymore) but it appears that there are rough plywood edges that water can get at. If so, it needs to be cut back to dry and encapsulated. I vote for sumps if practicable, always.

 

It looks like a liner with a void between it and the hull.

 

I would like to build a sump in, that is what I was taking about when I mentioned modifying. There was no sump in originally and I guess the water must of been splashing about the deck. I`d say the previous owner cut the deck to fit the pumps because the hull was leaking. I want a sump but don`t want to restrict the flow of water to the bung by doing so. The middle stringer is kind of in the way for a sump, have been toying with the idea of cutting it back to give me room. Other taughts could be to build 2 smaller sumps either side of this middle stringer, but I`m not sure if two small sumps would be effective. Thats my taughts so wondering what other options I have.

 

I may misunderstand but it seems you need to open up the liner as far aft as possible and locate the pump there at the low point. The sump "box" can easily have holes around its base so that water can flow freely in and out.
The sump cover can be waterproof if desired to allow the under-deck area to serve as a large flotation chamber as it was likely originally meant to be. If the area is too shallow for the pump, raise the sides of the sump box above the deck so that you can seal the pump in.
The cover can be kept sealed by using a foam gasket and a bungee or a couple of brass wing nuts.
The idea is to improve on the original design, which appears to have assumed that no water would ever enter the chamber below the deck. Of course it did.
Always drain the bilge after hauling the boat, but if the boat sits in the water for extended periods of time, if you have a sealed pump box, open it often and see if the pump is doing its job.
Before sealing the cockpit sole, make sure you've checked for rot or pre-rot (saturated wood framing). It may well be that you've got more work to do down there, much more than building a simple sump.

 

I've had to deal with just this situation many times. The liner is leaking down to the hull shell and this is why the previous owner cut the liner, so it could get pumped dry too.

You could make a new sump that permits water trapped between the liner and the hull shell to enter, but this is at best problematic. What I usually do is clean up the hull shell area as best as possible, often filling and fairing the rough 'glass work, aft against the transom. This offers a nice place for the water to collect, before it gets pumped out. Then of course are the two pumps, one mounted 2" higher then the other and the biggest GPH you can afford to install.

The photos show a sole that has substantial moisture damage. Any soft spots? You can install a grating over the pump locations, so water on the liner can drain into the hole in the sole. Also, if you have a transom drain hole, these are normally located at the liner sump height, not the hull shell. Relocate this drain hole at the lowest point on the inside of the hull shell, so that when on a trailer or in a cradle, she can drain aft and empty the accumulated moisture.

 

Thanks Alan and guys for your imput. I did want to keep the under-deck seperate and try to have a sump area in the deck to deal with surface water from splashing about the deck. I still want the under-deck to be able to drain out through the bung if water gets in there. The deck is made of two layers with balsam core sandswiched between them, these are in sections seperate from each other and not layed as one whole deck, so if one section is damaged it only needs to be repaired. The boat will be stored out of water and with bung out. I did some core samples of stringers and they were ok,if that answers that question.

 

I want to say thanks for the quick response to my thread from members here I didn`t think i would get such a speedy response. I`m delighted with the imput thanks again.

 

Hi breathless,That bilge looks familiar Could you use one of these self priming pumps and just have the hose in the bilge or it might even be low enough to cover with a deck hatch.
http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=86243F

 

One and the same How are you F. Ah but if I just put a hatch down it wont give me a sump to keep me from standing in water all the time. Am I just trying for over kill all the time How is your new boat coming along.

 

Would it be a big job to raise the deck an inch or two on timber laths and put a float switch on the pump,that should keep your feet dry.
I am on a go slow at the moment but hope to get back into it next week if all goes well.

 

Yeah that was one of my ideas also but i wanted other opinions also, probably would be the simplest way out. Its hard to believe that was the original design. Its hard to get time, I had planned to work on the boat all day but herself left me with the two boys in the morning then after dinner we had visitors who just turned up. F**kers