cement question (house not boat)

Hi John, I'm nearly finished working up the file conversions and planned on emailing you this week. The holidays have been surprisingly busy, but I'm close to being back on schedule now.

Alan, this the it design he's after. Originally drawn by hand a number of years back, now being brought into the 21st century. The model name is Prominence, the model number is 19.8 (determined by LWL for convenience) and the actual design number is pretty low, I'd have to look it up, probably in the teens. She's not an ultra light, but not heavy either, carries a good ballast ratio for a centerboarder and the stub keel houses most of the board, which intrudes very little into the cockpit space. The original design brief made this boat unsinkable without a chainsaw. As John has mentioned it's a strip plank build. The hull shapes would be typical of the era and has the second generation of period rule influences in her.

 

That's a pretty boat. I couldn't make out the specs but she appears to have the potential for a taller mast if the geography permitted. I like this kind of boat for a lot of reasons. A gentleman's daysailer with ease of trailering thrown in. Joel White did a few similar boats in that size range, all of which were very practical boats.
Also perfect for the addition of a small cabin for overnighting or whatever, though you can overdo a boat like this, as it's nice and low as is. Wonder how she'd go with a yawl rig?

 

Looks are deceiving. Her principle dimensions are:

23' 1" LOD
19' 8" LWL
8' Beam
6' 5" max WL Beam
12" Draft with the board up
2,000 lbs. displacement in cruising trim
Cp .58
D/L 117.5
Sail area 182 sq. ft. (working)
SA/D 18.3
WS/SA ~2.5

Her D/L is fairly low and with just her working sails still has a SA/D of 18.3, so she'll pick up her skirt and hooch if asked nicely. She' takes some wind to plane but will if enticed and it's blowing hard enough. The original used the Catalina 22 sail plan, mast, rig and all. With a reasonable set of headsails she'll do quite well.

Yes, this hull has the volume to carry a cabin, even a fully dressed one, but this wasn't part of the original design brief. Most folks use their cabin less then 1% of time the boat is in use, so in reality it's an encumbrance that a boom tent can easily fix, without burdening sailing abilities. The logical direction of this discussion then becomes "where will she pee . . ." in defense of the deck protuberance. In reality you're bouncing along the shore most of the time. Stopping for lunch, shopping, pooping in a more stable environment, etc. If the little woman can't be taken on a camping trip in the woods, then you're probably going to have similar difficulties on the water, cabin or not.

With a sprit boom mizzen, I think she'd do okay. It looks to clear the split back stay and a mizzen mule would add some off wind performance. It's more complication at the ramp, but hey, life's short.

 

door fix

Alan,
You are probably right about this boat being able to carry a taller mast, but the mast as you see on the drawing is hardly longer than the hull, which is a big plus for a regularly trailered boat. Less weight to hoist as well.

The beam is about max for legal highway travel here, and though the trailer has surge brakes, the boat isn't heavy enough to require brakes.
(The reason I put brakes on the trailer is that my tow vehicle is a 1996 Toyota 4X4. It only weighs a little over 3000lbs. So properly set-up surge brakes give me a safety margin. Pulling with this truck is no problem - getting it to stop could be. Years ago I replaced the factory 4.56 differential gears with 5.29 gears. I could yank a houseboat up a ramp with that gearing. I run about 3100 rpm at 60mph in 5th. Most trailers and tires are recommended to run at 55, so I don't do 80!!)

As far as , where do we pee-pee? Isn't that what buckets or trees are for? Or hang it over the side.

I picked Paul's design because it fit the bill, but I've been reading his posts on several boards for months. I give credit where it's due, and I get the impression he knows his craft. The last thing I wanted was a design that wouldn't/couldn't go together or was too vague for my level of experience. Paul supplies a great amount of detail if you need it. Sometimes you can say to yourself that you don't need a lot of detail, but you really do...you just don't know that you do!! (Hope that makes sense !)

BTW. I've learned a lot from these boat boards, even from the people who disagree with PAR.

Hoping it's a short winter,

Waddie

 

Thanks to both. By the way, I've found the Clorox bottle I cut one side off to pee in works like a charm when it comes to bailing rain water. I can't get women to use it though, but I know that the one girl who does is "the one" for me. Heck, if she'd pee in it too, I'd be thrilled.

 

I've found most women have tremendous "staying" power in this regard. They can put a man to shame when it comes to "holdin it". Given squatting over a bucket and hoping you aren't looking or waiting for the skipper to "cave" and find a slip next to a restaurant in the next 1/2 hour, they can wait. Not that this is fair or proper, but I've found it's fairly rare for them to be the one that just has to go "right now" as a guy might after a few beers.

 

What a thread? Garage door and cement questions on the the boat forum. PAR's boats. Girls peeing in buckets? What else can we throw in on this one?

Apparently, I've married a gem. No second thoughts on the use of the pee-can.

Cheers to everyone for such a great forum.

 

My wife was "de-virginized" on a delivery from Green Bay Wisconsin to Long Island, NY via the Great Lakes and Erie Canal. The head broke. She'll pretty much pee or worse anywhere that's not going to make a mess now.

I may take flack for this, but sea creatures do it... she even did some serious, solid business over the lifelines one time! ha ha ha

 

If you want to build up the floor just get some nonshrink grout ,bush or rough up the surface area of concrete your going to build up. Bonsal F77 already has a bonding agent in it , its not labled for floors but I,ve used palets of it on condos from feather edges on wall joints to bulk patches.If its the corner of the slab bust it out , drill a few redheads or any other anchors into the slab, form it , pour it back with a sackcret with fiber .

 

Waddie has the least expensive correct solution, look at the system on the bottoms of exterior(storm) doors, Cut slots in the alum. channel to allow vertical adjustment as on the storm door, geo.(licenced journeyman carpenter)

 

garge floor

Concrete overlay in high weight usage areas are possible. I used to do sub work for the floors of Home Depot. When they would crack, the ensuing forklift traffic would create a hole that would require a cement bonding slurry to be put down first, Then concrete. However, you might consider a hot-mix asphalt. Much easier for the DYI homeowner.

 

Taylor, the problem from his description is he has to level from a feather edge to level the floor so his garage door bottom rubber seal makes continious contact again. Not easy for the average homeowner to do and if done by a pro, still no guarantee it won't seperate especially along the feather edge and once that seal is broken water intrusion will continue the destruction, especially if a frost occurs. It's a tuff one.

 

cement question

Could you reconfigure the seal on the door to accommodate to floor. Will probably take some fabrication initiative. Could also place a metal, (aluminum), threshold plate down. However, if the bottom of the door is not level with the floor as you stated......
Although it seems a half bake fix, the hot pack asphalt tamped to level with the door may not be to bad of an idea.
Best of luck.