structural changes

OK You think it will fail and we will die or at least get wet.

I will use a safety brace when I take it sailing. I will have a replacement piece to fit into the area that I cut out of the top of the original bulk head. I will build it with a slight gap so that I will be able to tell if my design is flexing but will stop the flex before the boat fails.

I have listened to some of the input. Originally I thought of using 2x4 but was told that nothing over ¾ thick should be used when you are laminating and glassing wood.

I was told that the over head and post could be a visual problem. The original placement did put them right in the way of my view so I change them.

I talked about using bolts and was told that imbedding all thread in epoxy is actually a better way.


If I promise to use a safety brace, will you guys help me with ideas and techniques to make my connections, joints, and beams as strong as possible?

I obviously need help and I’m going on with this project. Please help

Thank you

 

Petros,

How much would you charge me to design a structure that would work?

Will

 

The critical aft bulkhead is the one the a-frame akas attach to. In aft cockpit conversions of searunner 31s this bulkhead is left intact and the cockpit is put behind it. They call it the main strength bulkhead for a reason. You could build it higher in a similar way but the top has to be connected. I would consider a top only hatch to preserve the strength. If you are hoping to use the mainsheet track base as a the bridge make sure it can take the loads. The highest loading is on the forward mainstrength bulkhead so try not to chop that one up. The early tris of Piver and Brown were developed by people without formal engineering who would sail them until something broke then redesign. This could turn into a fun hobby so take an immersion suit so you can enjoy the ride!