Infusion Q&A

I have built a very small test panel, and it worked well If I have a 23' x 8' power boat hull mold is it possible to infuse it in what I would call managable sectionsm hull bottom get 4 layers of 2415, sides get 2 and the transom get six with a 3" core in between
What I was thinking as managaable was transom size sections I am using ployester resin

 

I do not recommend that, although it can be done. Pittfals are prerelease, reduced adhesion, and seams that might not look nice.

I suggest splitting the hull in managable sections, and do them all together, so the trick is more in the infusion strategy. This way even mega sized structures can be done, and are done this way.

This is also where the "fishbone" stragegy comes from, and the "multitude of squares" stragegy. (I recommend fishbone here)

Basic idea:

Get a large runner in the keel, and fishbones from the keel upwards. Distance of the fishbones is dependent on the maximum amount of travel that the resin manages in your laminate. Stop about 20 cm from either the shear line (round bottom boat) or chine (chined boat). In case if the chined boat, do the same from the chine upwards.

If you do not feel confident enough, I suggest doing at least 2 more tests:

-An U-shaped section the size of the bottom (U shape refers to the runners, so basicly a piece of keel runner, and two fishbones)
-A section of the boat, covering bottom and side. (basicly the same as above, but now extended)

 

how do I figure the aprox locations of the fish bones, ( lines off the supply in the keel)

 

as a rule of thumb, space them apart about 60-80 cm, depending on your resin flow. That way the resin only has to travel 30-40 cm.

 

Great info, Herman I never was able to post the pictures of one of my test panels on your site were you able?

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zA3TGYsORx4&feature=related
Great video at Calyber Boat works

 

Hi Brokensheer,

My sites suffered from lack of priority, in short notice that will change. After The Big Crash of the server things changed anyway. My other community is rolling, and does not need the attention that it used to need, so time to wrap some things up at work, and dive into the resininfusion.info website for 100%.

 

New question:

Here we are infusing away on boat parts, molds etc. When one of my guys, who has a LOT of infusion experience, tells me that; In the past they found that woven roving actually flows better than same weight biax.

Now, I've never thought to try this because, when I was taught infusion, we were told woven roving was a no no and wouldn't work at all.

We were also told that mat wouldn't work either and we find that it works fine.

I don't have any woven roving in the shop to do a test with so I figured I'd just ask. Have any of you tested infusing woven roving vs biax? Are they pulling my leg here?

Many thanks in advance.

-jim lee

 

Years ago I found the same thing with the 18 Oz WR during testing.

 

Indeed, they are not pulling your leg.

Keep in mind that WR has slightly more open space, allowing for resin to flow. Also, fiber to resin ratio is slightly lower, for the same reason. (but can still be had in the 50's range)

 

Nice job

With good vacuum you can infuse almost everything...have a look

http://www.nautica.com.br/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=8250

 

nice work ! is that epoxy or polyester resin?

 

The barrels say "Aropol", so I guess it is polyester... Otherwise it would have been "Aropox"...

(+1, helpful)

 

The boat finished

You're right ....it's polyester.

It´s too expensive to use epoxi in this boat size.

We infused the stringers and the hull at the same time saving resin and labor.
Then you can see the boat finished with only 700kgs(24.5 feet)


I´ll post later a big cat infused in epoxi.


Att

ED

 

How long did it take to infuse all the resin in from the moment you cranked the vacuum and let the drawing begin?